
Book JIB_\^ 

GopghtK" 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



THE 

PHAT BOY'S DELINEATIONS 

OF THE 

St. Lawrence River 

AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



A Guide for the Tourist and Traveler. 



Making a Round Trip from New York, via N. Y. W. S. M B. R. K.. the 

Ontario and Western R. R., and N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R , to 

Utica, Syraccsk. Rochester, Bi'ffalo and Niagara Falls, 

AND Toronto, throogh Lake Ontario. Thousand 

Islands and Rapids of the St. Lawrence 

River, to Montreal, Qvebec, Sagi- 

ENAY River, Lake Cha.mplain, 

Lake George, Sarato- ^.-^I^v OF Cn ^ 

OA. Albany, New /'\ ' • • ■ , 

/ -r I 

York and / QC i 1 -i , ^ 

Boston. y>>^ Z 1 ^f 4l "^ ^ 



Fourth Edition.— Copyrighted 1885. 



E. K. BABKAGK, Publisher, 

\ 

ROCHESTER, N. Y\, 

post-express printing company, Vi TO IH mill street, 

1885. 



THE NEW "GENESEE" 



BUKKALO, N. Y. 




:,s"' 



EDWARD P. HARRIS, Prop, 



American and European Plan. 



^ 



INTRODUCTION. 



IN presenting this work, *' The Phat Boy's Historic De- 
lineations," of the St. Lawrence River from Kingston 
to Montreal, the only correct description of the St. Law- 
rence River, before the j^ublic, being a round trip from New 
York to Buffalo, Niagara F'alls, Toronto, Kingston, Alexan- 
dria Bay, Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St. Law- 
rence to Montreal, Quebec, Lake Champlain, Lake George, 
Saratoga, Albany, New York and Boston. (Just completed 
the " Phat Boy's " Maj) of the St. Lawrence, being a birds 
eye view of the route from Kingston to Montreal, showing 
every Island, Town, Village, City, River, Creek or Stream, 
Kapid, Canal or Light House, and route of all the steam- 
ers.) It may not be amiss to state the fact which prompt- 
ed its issue. Financial or personal ends are always the 
paramount object to be attained by an individual who puts 
forth anything in this world. I therefore plead guilty to 
the above charge, and for so doing propose to give to the 
tourist or traveler down the majestic St. Lawrence a faith- 
ful description of every point of interest that meets the eye 
of the beholder. 

Having held the position for ten years of " The Guide of 
the St. Lawrence," and in that capacity made the trip a 
•^pleasant one for everybody without regard to age, weight, 
sex, color, or previous condition of servitude, I feel capable 
of compihng a book which does not contain any pictorial 
illustrations of the scenic beauty connected with the trip. 



f - (GJ2-J 



feeling confident that a plain unvarnished description of all 
the various points of interest would be sufficient. The 
tourist can thus feast the eye on a thousand pictures that a 
volume ten times this size could not contain, for no matter 
how often you open the eyes during the day, they will fall 
upon some delightful scene, where the God of nature has 
smiled upon, within an hour. Neither have I given a 
highly colored description of the Rapids ; they have been 
viewed and described by thousands, and the effect produced 
is as varied in character as the individual writers differed in 
temperament and looks. 

Trusting that this volume may meet with as cheerful a 
greeting by the public as it has always accorded my efforts 
to please, and if its perusal causes the weary or lonesome 
traveler one hour of mirth or pleasure, its mission will have 
been accomplished. 

Respectfully Yours, 

E. F. BABBAGE " Phat Boy," 

Guide to the St. Laivi-efice. 



REFERENCES FOR THIS WORK. 

We have a number of references as to the worth of this 
Httle volume. Space and time forbid a mention of them 
all ; some of the most prominent will suffice. 

1. At Alexandria Bay last season, a lady had the misfor- 
tune to sprain her ankle, (no matter how ; but we will say, 
least some one may be led astray as to the real cause, that 
it was not done falling or stumbling over the editor. ) We 
very kindly gave her a copy of the " Phat Boy's " Delinea- 
tions of the St. Lawrence River, and she was able to walk 
in ten hours after the accident, apparently as well as ever. 

2. This volume will not bring home a stray cow ; but it 
will do the next best thing : milk them in the pasture, thus 
saving the wear and tear incident to their coming home. 

3. The delight and pleasure that the perusal of your little 
volume gave me, I am unable to Express. — Susan B. 

N. B. — Then send it by Freight. — •' Phat Boy." 

4. A lady who had one copy (by the way, she was mar- 
ried,) wrote for the second ; it was sent to her ; but mean- 
while she had changed her residence to the Lunatic Asylum. 
Now here is a chance for married men who wish to become 
single for 25 cents- Send for a copy. 

5. A very restless, nervous man bought a copy ; read to 
page 20, went to sleep quietly for ten hours. First good 
rest in four years. 

6. It is good for maiden ladies ; has been known to cure 
headache, toothache, sprains, bruises, ingrowing nails, and 
it matters not. 

7. Eli Perkins will read a copy of this work, August 25th, 
1885, and from that day until death will speak the truth. 



HISTORIC DELINEATIONS 

OF 

THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 



THE St. Lawrence River, with its Thousand Islands 
and Rapids, is day by day attracting more and more 
attention among tourists. There is so much that is grand, 
weird, sublime and exhilerating in the scenery and balmy 
atmosphere of the majestic river, as it passes in its onward 
flow from the lake to the gulf, that we need not for a mo- 
ment wonder why it is that there is a great annual increase 
in the number of those intelligent people, who, from East, 
West and South, repair to its placid waters in summer to 
recuperate their wasted energies and enjoy that luxuriating 
season known to every American as "vacation." 

A vacation on the St. Lawrence, means a sojourn at 
some pretentious or lowly cottage, or at some hotel of 
either class for a few days, or for one, two or more weeks, 
as the time, finances and incHnation of the individual may 
dictate ; or it may, as in hundreds of instances it does, only 
include a voyage of rapid transit, from New York to Utica, 
Niagara Falls, Lewiston, Toronto or Kingston to Alexan- 
dria Bay or Montreal then return home. There are several 
different popular starting places to reach the river ; it is 
presumed you will take the most convenient one, and we 
will consider ourselves pleased with the selection. 



Route A. 



THE WEST SHORE ROUTE. 



THE TOURIST ROUTE OF THE NORTH. 

While many sui)pose that both sides of the Hudson River 
present equal attraction— and it would be hard to decide 
which is the most beautiful — it is a curious fact that all, or 
nearly all, the noted summer resorts for which the country 
adjacent is famous are located on its western bank. Thus, 
starting from New York and following up the West Shore 
Route, we find the Palisades, Tappan, Rockland Lake, 
Stony Point, Cranston's, West Point, Cornwall, Lakes Mo- 
honk and Minnewaska, the Catskills, Saratoga, Mount 
McGregor, and the Adirondacks (in which the great river 
rises), all on the same side, and all easily accessible by the 
New York, West Shore and Buffalo Raihvay. In addition 
to these, the magnificent cars of this route convey the trav- 
eler to Lake George, Lake Champlain and Montreal, on 
the north ; Sharon Springs, Cooperstown, Richfield Springs, 
Niagara Falls, Buffalo and Chatauqua Lake, and make 
close connections for all the White Mountain and Eastern 
resorts, for the Thousand Islands, Watkin's Glen and the 
Lake region of Central New York. It is thus emphatically 



8 

the tourists route of the north, and, reaHzing this fact, its 
projectors and managers have done everything in their 
power to render it attractive to this constantly increasing 
and most fastidious class of travelers. 

While traversing the most picturesque portions of a State 
noted for its scenery, this railway is the most complete in 
all details of construction and equipment of any in this 
country. It is a double track, steel rail Hne, with an un- 
usually wide space between tracks, running north from Jer- 
sey City along the west shore of the Hudson to Albany, 
and thence through the fertile Valley of the Mohawk and 
across Central New York, touching at Utica, Syracuse and 
Rochester, to Buffalo and Niagara Falls. Its grades are 
easy, its curves are light, its steel rails are among the heav- 
iest known in railway construction, and its road-bed will be 
crowned with a deep ballasting of stone. 

Owing to this excellent road-bed and the great strength 
of its iron bridges this company has been able to build ex- 
ceptionally heavy locomotives for its various classes of traf- 
fic. The passenger engines burn anthracite coal, and are 
designed to haul trains of from ten to fifteen coaches at a 
high rate of speed. They are provided with special ar- 
rangements in the fire and smoke boxes and smoke stacks 
to consume all gases, and prevent the escape of smoke or 
cinders. 

LOCOMOTIVES, CARS AND STATION HOUSES. 

The entire passenger equipment of the road was especi- 
ally designed and built by the Pullman Palace Car Com- 
pany, and is the most complete in all details pertaining to 
elegance of finish, comfort and safety in the world. From 



the palatial buffet cars, with interiors finished in variegated 
hard-woods and furnished with plate.glass mirrors, luxurious 
arm-chairs, soft carpets and rich drapery, to the smoking 
cars, finished with figured oak and provided with revolving 
chairs, upholstered in leather, all are the most perfect speci- 
mens of the car-builder's art extant. The exterior of the 
cars making up West Shore passenger trains is painted in a 
rich dark olive and gold, which produces a most pleasing 
effect. 

The station houses erected along the entire route from 
New York to Buffalo are architectural gems, harmonious in 
color and design with the beautiful and picturesque scenery 
through which the road passes. Those at the New York 
terminus, at Kingston, Albany, Utica, Syracuse and Buffalo 
will, when finished, surpass in completeness and artistic de- 
sign any series of railway stations ever erected by a single 
company. 

THE NEW YORK STATION. 

The New York terminus of this great railway was pro- 
jected upon a scale of vastness and perfection of detail com- 
mensurate with the rest of the magnificent scheme. It is at 
Weehawken, opposite the heart of the great city, and close 
beneath the height on which x\lexander Hamilton fell be- 
fore the pistol of Aaron. Burr. It extends for more than a 
mile along the river front, and, with its numerous docks and 
piers, presents nearly six miles of working space m which 
vessels of every description may receive freight. From here 
commodious and elegantly appointed ferry-boats run to the 
handsome up-town passenger station at the foot of Forty- 
second Street. The express trains of the West Shore Route 



lO 

leave from and arrive at the down town station, foot of Jay 
Street, accessible from Elevated stations at Franklin, Cham- ' 
bers and Barclay Streets ; also leave from and arrive at the 
up town station at the foot of West 42nd Street, New York, 
and from the foot of Fulton Street, Brooklyn. The pas- 
senger from New York has thus an option of starting from 
any one of half a dozen points, a great convenience when 
one considers the peculiar position and length of the city. 
Passengers are cautioned to consult official time-tables in 
the Company's publications, or in the leading newspapers, 
with the view of ascertaining just what trains leave from 
and arrive at the various stations named. 

In the subsequent pages one may obtain partial glimpses 
of some of the innumerable delightful places to which this 
highway for business and pleasure travel will guide him, and 
a few hints of the many pleasures in store for his summer 
holiday. 

BETWEEN NEW YORK AND THE THOUSAND 
ISLANDS. 

"THE ONTARIO ROUTE." 

New York, Ontario & Western Railway Co. 

Running from New York to the City of Oswego on Lake 
Ontario, and in connection with the R. W. & O. R. R- 
from Cape Vincent, forming the most attractive route to 
the St. Lawrence River. It is the only line running Pull- 
man sleepers through without change between New York 
and the Thousands Islands. On arrival of trains at Cape 
Vincent the new steamer St. Lawrence, the handsomest and 
swiftest on the River, leaves tor all landings among the 
Islands. 



II 

The train carrying through sleepers leaves New York at 
5:30 p. m., arriving at Cape Vincent at 9:30 a. m.. and Al- 
exandria Bay at 1 1:30 a. m.; giving tourists a delightful ride 
of twenty-five miles down the Islands to the Bay. Ample 
time is given at Richland for breakfast. Returning the St. 
Lawrence leaves Alexandria Bay at 4:00 p. m., arriving at 
Cape Vincent at 6:00 p. m., and train leaves at 6:10 p. m., 
arriving in New York at 9:30 a. m. 

The depots and ferries of the New York, Ontario & Wes- 
tern Railway, are located in New York at the foot of West 
42nd Street and Harrison Street, from which points com- 
modious and elegantly appointed ferry boats run to the 
passenger station at Weehawken, and in Brooklyn at the 
foot of Fulton, Brooklyn Annex. 

The route of the Ontario and Western, after leaving 
Weehawken, is west of the Palisades, through the counties 
of Bergen in New Jersey, and Rockland in New York, fol- 
lowing the fertile and romantic valley of the Hackensack. 
At Valley Cottage the road tunnels through the mountains 
and for sixteen miles skirts the banks of the Hudson, through 
the Highlands, traversing all the historic and picturesque 
points along that world-famed stream. Then over the foot- 
hills of the Catskills, through the mountains of Central New- 
York, and along the valleys of the Delaware, Neversink, 
Beaverkill and Chenango Rivers with their lovely pictur- 
esque views of mountam, lake and river, to Lake Ontario, 
making one of the most beautiful routes across the Empire- 
State. 

The night express trains run every day including Sunday. 
The Pullman buffet sleepers are of the latest models, and 



complete in all details pertaining to elegance of finish, com- 
fort and safety. 

The City of Kingston, Ontario, is easily reached from 
Cape Vincent via Steamer Maud, which leaves after the ar- 
rival of train from New York, and returning leaves in the 
afternoon, connecting with train for the south. 

The New York Central & Hudson River R. R., leaving 
the Grand Central Depot, 42nd Street, New York, passes 
along the beautiful Hudson River to Albany, then the great 
four tracked railroad of the world conveys you to Utica 
(where the direct connections are made with the Utica & 
Black River R. R. ; then the traveler can if he desires pass 
over this popular route, reaching in a few hours the majes- 
tic St. Lawrence at Clayton, connecting with the steamers 
of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company direct 
for Montreal), Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo or 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

The ticket office of the Grand Trunk R. R. and Riche- 
lieu and Ontario Navigation Company Royal Mail Line is 
located at No. 4 International Hotel, and is presided over 
by Mrs, L. Barber, who will cheerfully give you any infor- 
mation desired. Trains leave the Falls every morning, Sun- 
day excepted, by Grand Trunk R. R. to Toronto, and arrive 
in time to connect with Mail Line for Montreal. Trains 
leave Niagara Falls every morning, except Sunday, at 9:05 
a. m., via. Central Hudson Branch for Lewiston, where con- 
nections are made with the fast sailing side wheel steamboat 

CHICORA, 

crossing the beautiful Lake Ontario and arriving in Toron- 



^3 

to in time to connect with Richelieu and Ontario Naviga- 
tion Company Royal Mail Line for Kingston, Alexandria 
Bay, Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St. Lawrence 
River to Montreal. 

''THANK GOD" NIAGARA FALLS IS 
FREE.— BORN AGAIN. 

From the first issue of this little volume up to the pres- 
ent I have labored to inform the public regarding the many 
schemes and extortions at the Falls; been the only cham- 
pion of fifty millions of people, and with my coat off and 
sleeves rolled up, worked for the passage of the bill to make 
Niagara Falls free. Now, that success has perched upon 
our banners, we propose to put the people of Niagara Falls 
upon the stool of repentance on their good behavior as it 
were for the season of 1885. After that time, should they 
merit kind treatment or praise I shall be most happy to say 
so. If, on the other hand, they deserve censure for any 
device or schemes to entrap the stranger or visitor, I shall 
ventilate it, and, as in the past, handle them without gloves. 

Hoping the dear public will sanction the charity I have 
displayed and post me regarding their treatment at the Falls 
the coming season, I am Respectfully Yours, 

E. F. Babbage, ''Phat Boy," 

21 Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. Y. 

As many of the tourists leave Niagara Falls in the morn- 
ing at 9:05 o'clock by rail to Lewiston, and connect with the 
Steamer Chicora, for Toronto, I will mention the places and 
points. 



14 

LEWISTON. 

This village is situated at the head of navigation, on the 
Lower Niagara, and is a place of considerable importance. 
It lies three miles below Devil's Hole, and seven miles 
below the Falls. Lewiston is a pleasant, well built village, 
but its commercial prospects have been very much injured 
by the construction of the Erie and Welland Canals. 

QUEENSTON 

is a small village situated nearly opposite to Lewiston, and 
contains about 350 inhabitants. It is associated in history 
with the gallant defence made by the British on the adjacent 
heights in the war of 181 2. The village is pleasantly situ- 
ated, but has suffered from the same causes that have re- 
tarded the growth of Lewiston, The river here becomes 
more tranquil, the shores less broken and wild, and the 
change in the scenery affords a pleasing transition from the 
subHme to the beautiful. 

BROCK'S MONUMENT. 

The monument stands on the Heights of Queenston, 
from whence the village derives its name. The present 
structure occupies the site of the former one, which was 
blown up by some miscreant on the 17th of April, 1840. 
The whole edifice is 185 feet high; on the sub-base, which 
is 40 feet square and 30 feet high, are placed four lions, fac- 
ing North, South, East and West ; the base of the pedestal 
is 21^ feet square and 10 feet high; the pedestal itself is 16 
feet square and to feet high, surmounted by a heavy corn- 
ice, ornamented with lions' heads and wreaths in alto relievo^ 
In ascending from the top of the pedestal to the top of the 



15 

base of the shaft, the form changes from square to round. 
The shaft is a fluted cokmin of free-stone, 75 feet high and 
10 feet in diameter, on which stands a Corinthian capital 
10 feet high, whereon is wrought, in reHef, a statue of the 
Goddess of War. On this capital is the dome 9 feet high, 
reached by 250 spiral steps from the base, on the inside. 
On the toj) of the dome is placed a colossal statue of Gen- 
eral Brock. 

FORT NIAGARA. 

This fort stands at the mouth of the Niagara river, on 
the American side. There are many interesting associa- 
tions connected with this spot, as during the early part of 
the past century, it was the scene of many severe conflicts 
between the whites and Indians, and subsequently between 
the English and French. The names of the heroic La 
Salle, the courtly De Nouville and the gallant Prideaux will 
long retain a name in the history of this country. The vil- 
lage adjacent to the fort is called Youngtown, in honor of 
its founder, the late John Young, Es(j. 

NIAGARA, 

is one of the oldest towns in Ontario and was formerly the 
capital of the Province. It is situated where the old town 
of Newark stood, and is opposite to Youngtown. It faces 
the river on one side of Lake Ontario. The trade of this 
place has been diverted to St. Catherines since the comple- 
tion of the Welland canal, and the other towns upon the 
Niagara river have suffered in common from the same cause- 
The Queens Royal Hotel is located here, and when I say 
it is run by Messrs. McGaw & Winnett of the Queens Ho- 



i6 



THE QUEENS HOTEL, 



TORONTO 



THE LARGEST AND BEST HOTEL IN THE CITY, 

Re-modeled, Re-decorated and Enlarged for Season of 1885. 

The Coolest Summer House in Canada. 

Beautiful Croquet and Chevalier L.awns. 

ELECTRIC BELLS, ELEVATORS, BATHS, ETC. 

N. B. — This is the safest Hotel, as regards fires, in Canada^ 
being for the most part but three stories high and surrounded 
by large open spaces Lipon all sides. 



The residence, when in the City, of the 

Governor General. 



THE TABLE IS UNSURPASSED IN CANADA. 

Porters Meet all Boats and Trains. 



McGAW & WIN NEXT, Props. 



ALSO PROPRIETORS 

QUEENS ROYAL, TECUMSEH HOUSE, 

Niagara, Ont. London, Ont. 



tel at Toronto, it is enough in its praise. The best Black 
Bass fishing on the Niagara River is at tliis point, 50 Bass 
have been caught in an hour weighing from i to 5 pounds 
eacli. 

THE CITY OF TORONTO. 

Toronto, tlie ca|)ital city of the Province of Ontario, is 
situated on a circular bay of the same name, and was 
founded by Governor Simcoe, in 1794. Thej city was for- 
merly called York. Toronto bay is a beautiful inlet, sepa- 
rated from the main body of Lake Ontario, except at its 
entrance, by a long, narrow sandy beach. The South-West- 
ern e.xtremity is called Gibralter Point. It is 165 miles 
from Kingston, 45 miles from Hamilton, and 50 miles from 
the falls of Niagara. The population in 17 17 was 1,200; 
but at the present time it amounts to about 75,000. The 
city is laid out at right angles. Its chief public buildings 
are the cathedrals and churches, the Parliament House, 
University of Toronto, Trinity College, Normal School, St. 
Michael's College, Osgoode Hall, St. Lawrence Hall, Me- 
chanics Institute, Provincial Lunatic Asylum, post-office, 
exchange and city schools. Its system of free public 
schools is one of the most perfect and best conducted in 
America. Among the many pleasant drives around this 
city the traveler should visit College Avenue and the 
Queen's Park. In this park is erected a statue of the 
Queen and a monument to commemorate the college 
youths who fell at Ridgeway defending the country from 
the attacks of the Fenians. The University of Toronto, a 
most magnificent building, is also situated in this park. 
The Parliament of Ontario and the principal law courts are 
held in this city. It is connected by the Grand Trunk 



THE ROSSIN HOUSE 

TOnONTO, OITTARIO, CAMDA. 




THE LEAD ING HOTEL IN TORONTO. 

Strictly First-CIass. American Plan. 

Prices Graduated. 

Fire Escape in all Bedrooms. 

The entire Plumbing of tliis Hotel has been renewed this Spring, anrl 

the latest improvements known to the Sanitary Bureaus of 

Boston and New York adopted. 

MARK H. IRISH, 

HENRY J. NOLAN, PROPRIETOR. 

Chief Clerk. 



19 

Railway and steamboats for all points. The two largest 
hotels in Toronto are the Rossin House and the Queens 
Hotel. These hotels have every modern improvement and 
the prices are graduated according to location of room. If 
carriages are needed while in the city Telephone No. 109, 
R. Bond's Livery who has everything first-class in the car- 
riage line, "A i." 

PORT HOPE 

is situated 65 miles from Toronto. A small stream, which 
here falls into the lake, has formed a valley, in which the 
town is located. The harbor at the mouth of this stream is 
shallow, but safe and commodious. Port Hope is a pretty 
town ; on the western side the hills rise gradually one above 
the other. The highest summit, called '' Fort Orton," af- 
fords a fine prospect, and overlooks the country for a great 
distance. The village is incorporated ; population about 
5,114. A direct route to Rochester by the Steamer Norse- 
man leaves this port every morning, except on Sunday, call- 
ing at Port Hope and connecting with Grand Trunk train 
from Toronto every week day morning and arriving in 
Rochester the same afternoon. The Grand Excursions of 
the Norseman from Rochester to Alexandria Bay leaving 
Rochester every Saturday evening and passing through the 
1,000 Island scenery of the St. Lawrence River arriving at 
Alexandria Bay in time for dinner, giving the passengers 
about five hours at the Bay and returning to Rochester 
early on Monday. I have advised many of my friends to 
make this trip, all of which have expressed themselves as 
dehghted. 



20 

COBOURG, 

seven miles below Port Hope, contains 6,000 inhabitants. 
It has seven churches, two banks, three grist mills, two 
founderies, and the largest cloth factory in the Province. 
It is also the seat of Victoria College and Theological 
Institute. Midway between Port Hope and Cobourg is 
^' Duck Island," on which a light-house is maintained by 
the government. 

FOR THE BENEFIT OF ALL, 

we submit the following time-table — not forgetting to men- 
tion that steamboats are not infaUible, but are governed by 
man, accompanied by steam, wind and water. If the boat 
is one hour late in starting from any given point, it is likely 
she will remain so, as I know of but one boat in the line 
that can beat or surpass schedule time. 

LEAVING EVERY DAY — SUNDAYS EXCEPTED. 

Toronto (Sunday Ex- Morrisburg 1 2.05 p. m. 

cepted) 2:00 P. m. Chrysler's Farm 12:17 

Kingston (Monday Aultsville 12:30 

Excepted) 5:00 a. m. Farreu's Point 12:40 

Clayton 6:00 " Dickenson's Landing. ..12:55 

Alexandria Bay 7:00 *' Long Saul t 1:00 

Brockville 9:30 " Last of U. S. shore 1:15 

Prescott 10:30 " Cornwall 1:30 

Galop Rapids 11:05 *•' Coteau Landing 4:00 

Iroquois 11:35 " Cedar Rapid 4:30 

Narrowest Point 11:45 " Indian Pilot 6:00 

Rapid Piatt 11:55 " Montreal 7:00 

We assume that we are now fairly entering on the ma- 
jestic stream on the Canadian side. 



21 



THE CITY OF KINGSTON, 

which has a pojjulation of 15,000, was founded in 1672, by 
Governor DeCourcelles, receiving the name of Fort Cata- 
racjui. Later, a massive stone fort was built by Count De 
Frontenac, and received his name. In 1762 the place was 
taken by the British, wlio gave it its present name. As a 
place of defense it stands next in strength to Quebec. The 
batteries of Fort Henry are calculated for the reception of 
numerous cannon and mortars of the largest calibre. These, 
together with neighboring martcllo towers, form a formida- 
ble defense against any agressive movement which might 
be directed against the city. These fortifications are seen 
to excellent advantage from the steamer soon after it leaves 
the dock. 

On the right is Garden Island ; on the left, Cedar Island, 
and behind is Fort Henry. There is here, also, in view, 
the round stone towers referred to above. Xear the 
middle of the river is Wolf or Long Island, 2 1 miles long, 
and 7 miles wide near the Western end. There is nothing 
either of romance or historical episode to weave into our 
story, concerning the inhabitants of this, the largest of the 
Thousand Island group. Suffice it to say, that the territory 
is a portion of the Dominion of Canada, and that the habits 
of civihzed life characterize the people. Between one 
channel and the main land there is St. John's or Howe Is- 
land, of no mean proportions. 

Ordinarily, we have now spent about one hour on the 
steamer from Kingston, and come to the point in the chan- 
nel where we must diverge either for Ganoque, or Clayton. 



We are bound for the former. If the boat takes the Amer- 
ican channel, (for description turn to Route B page 29). 
As soon as the hght-house on Burnt Island comes in view, 
we may be said to have fairly entered upon the real beauty 
of the " sacred river of America." In steering for Gananoque 
we pass many pretty httle isles of six or eight acres. On 
the right is a range light, the boat, of course, passing be- 
tween the two. It is said that from the deck of the steamer, 
one hundred islands can be counted — in fact, the panorama 
is probably matchless on the globe. While the islands are 
so numerous both on the right and left, the boat glides by 
in its efforts to reach Gananoque without allowing the tour- 
ist to be distracted in the rapture of delight that is feasting 
his eyes. Some of these isles are scarcely more than barren 
rocks, while others are paradises of verdure. 

''DO YOU GO OUT FISHING?" 

Well not often, you see this ponderous body of mine does 
not fit the average fishing boat. My fears are not all bound 
up in that one fact, nor in the satisfaction that if the boat 
should upset that I would not sink, but the fear that is in- 
dellibly printed upon my mind, that as I would float, and 
being- so large, some steamboat captain or pilot would 
take me for an island, lay alongside and let the passengers 
off for a little pic-nic or an hours pleasure. Think of it. 

''NOT A GEORGE WASH." 

He had told several very improbable stories bordering 
upon the Eli Perkins order and then remarked to a friend 



23 

that he could not tell a lie. But the friend replied, that he 
could the moment he heard it. and to the best of his judg- 
ment he had told several. 

Names of Islands that are numbered on the Phat Boy's 
Map of the St. Lawrence, because the space would not 
])ermit printing the names in full : 



53. Robinson. 


80. Pike. 


• 
54. Calumet, 


81. Idlewild, 


56. Seven, 


82. Little Lehigh, 


57. Pratt, 


S^. Sport, 


58. Wau Winnet, 

59. Cuba, 


- Summer Land 
85.) 


60. Devil's Oven. 


86. Arcada, 


61. Cherry, 


88. Schooner, 


61^ Southgate, R. H., 


94. Snake. 


62. Pullman, 


95. Float. 


63. Nobby, 


96. Milk, 


64. Welcome, 


97. Sugar, 


65. Friendly, 


100. Wallace, 


66. Florence, 


102. Deer, 


67. Linlith Govv, late Maud. 


, 107. Hoopers, 


68. Imperial, 


108. Shanter. 


70. Resort, 


109. Rattle Snake, 


71. Deshler, 


III. Round, 


72. Kipp, 


112. Poverty, 


73. Terry, 


114. Hemlock, 


75. Judge Donahue, 


115. Snipe, 


79. Proctor, 


116. Three Brothers, 



24 



iiy. 


Half Way, 


149. 


Bush, 


137- 


Brush, 


150- 


Coles and Smith, 


139- 


Flat, 


151- 


H. A. Fields, 


141. 


Round Top, 


160. 


Melville, 


142. 


Indian Chief, 


163. 


Dixon, 


143- 


Pine Tree, 


164. 


McGraw, 


144. 


Middle, 


165. 


Sears, 


145- 


Big, 


166. 


Benedict, 


146. 


Shoemakers, 


.67. 


Ruyci^ft, 


147. 


Bill Berry, 


169. 


Deniston, 


148. 


Raspberry. 







We now reach busy and picturesque 

GANANOQUE, 

inhabited by about three thousand people, eighteen miles 
East of Kingston, nearly the center of the Thousand Is- 
lands. It maybe well to state here that authorities (?) dif- 
fer as to how many islands there really are. Some say fif- 
teen hundred ; some eighteen hundred, and others carefully 
write, nearly two thousand. Life is too short for us to stop 
and count these natural beauties, and even the pilots have 
no desire to earn fame as statisticans by asserting the cor- 
rect number. The " Phat Boy " has just issued the only 
correct map of the St. Lawrence River, published, which 
will not be misleading to' the student of minute details. 
But we digress. 

We are still at Gananoque. It is comparatively easy to 
get away, for steamers ply along this Canada shore, keeping 
well north of the many islands, till they get to Brockville. 
We soon pass a light on the left called Jack Straw, and on 



25 

the right observe a beacon and pier. Further along, 
another light comes in view. The next attractive spot is 
called by the quaint name of Fiddler's Flbow. The tradi- 
tions connected with such names are sometimes thrilling 
and sometimes insipid ; but whether the one or the other, 
they will continue to stick, but if they serve to indellibly im- 
press upon our memory some pleasing reminiscence of a 
" thing of beauty," these names will not be by any means 
evanescent in their influence. As we frequently say, the 
elbow is still here, but the fiddler is, 1 guess, over at the 
camp meeting on Well's Island. He is i)robably first cous- 
in of " The Arkansas Traveler." 

But here we are in a tortuous channel, 

AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

It must not be supposed that these hundreds of islands 
are all occupied and have cottages on them, or laid out 
with walks ancj fountains. For every island that has a 
house on it there are perhaps twenty that have none. The 
number of houses are increasing every year, and I think 
that in time nearly every island will be occupied in the Ca- 
nadian channel as they are in the American. 

On the left is Darling's dock, the famous wood station. 
We have, as yet, never seen the " DarHng," although the 
dock is always visible. It may be she is busy in the pantry 
washing dishes. 

Two miles and a half below is 

ROCKPORT. 

This name would seem to have been given the place on 
account of its rocky formation. It is avowed here that 



26 

there are only two seasons ; the rocky season and the icy 
reason. Most of the visitors come here in the " rocky sea- 
son." Directly opposite on the right, the Park House on 
Westminister park is visible; also the fine chapel on Mt. 
Beulah, its tower being 136 feet high. On the left is Gre- 
nadier Island Light-house. 

From the deck of our steamer, looking to the right, we 
now have one of the most charming views on the St. Law- 
rence. Alexandria Bay is before us, and the famous Thous- 
and Island House and Crossmon House can be seen on 
yonder shore. Within the range of our vision are also the 
islands transformed by wealth, taste and art into the loveli- 
est of Smnmer resorts by their owners, namely: Fairyland 
(twenty acres), C. H. & W. B. Hayden, Columbus, Ohio; 
Idlewild (four acres), R. A. Packer, Sayre, Pa. ; and Sport 
(four acres), H. A. Packer, Mauch Chunk. Pa., who died m 
1884. Occupied this season by H. C. Wilbur and friends. 

The scene at night on these islands is enchanting almost 
beyond description. An approved gas machine supplies 
the illumination for hundreds of colored lamps suspended 
in graceful design on Sport Island, which is connected with 
the other Packer island by a wire suspension bridge. 

In the distance, one mile, still looking to the right, is the 
famous Whiskey Island. A pilot of the Canadian line got 
drunk at his post and fell into an oblivious condition ; the 
steamboat, under full headway, struck the island, and the 
name was given in commemoration of that event. Next, 
to the right, is a stone edifice called the Three Sisters light. 

They were formerly "old maids," but are now joined to- 
gether by a stone wall, consequently old maids no longer. 



27 

The next in order is Cross-over light. At this point in the 
river the steamer crosses to the American channel, and in 
a very short time is discovered to be making for the Cana- 
dian channel again to reach Brockville. Before the tourist 
gets there, however, he will observe numerous Islands ; the 
most noted are Bathhurst, Tecumseh, Star, McDonald and 
Hill Crest. On the left, on the main Canadian shore, com- 
modious and elegant villas are in view; also St. Lawrence 
Park, picnic and pleasure grounds of Brockville and vicin- 
ity. All Summer long, the scene is animated and captivat- 
ing. The whistle announces in its shrill way that we are 
now at 

BROCKVILLE, 

which was named in honor of General Brock, who fell in 
Queenston Heights, in the war of 1812. It is situated on 
the Canadian side of the St. Lawrence, and is one of the 
pleasantest villages in the Province. It is right at the foot 
of the Thousand Islands, on an elevation of land, which 
rises from the rivei in a succession of ridges. The town 
was laid out in 1802, and is now a place of considerable 
importance. The present population is about 6,500. 

After leaving the wharf, the boat passes the most beauti- 
ful cHff on the river, the palisades of the St. Lawrence, on 
which are erected magnificent mansions and suburban villas 
of Canada's distinguished sons. The most prominent of 
these is the son of Sir Hugh Allan, whose residence is in- 
deed superb. The sight-seer observes the winding stairs, 
boat and bath houses, and other appointments of recrea- 
tion. 

Having already intimated that there are other routes 



28 

which lead to the point in the river which we have now 
reached, we return westward to bring another party through 
the American channel. 

YOU KNOW HER. 

She is one of the strong minded of the female sex and 
generally has her own way in everything. At any rate she 
stands ready at any and all times to combat with an^ one 
of the lords of creation, or otherwise, who may dispute her 
sway. We prefer your imagination to fill in as a descrip- 
tion because it would be next to an impossibihty for me to. 
She has all the requisites: the thin, tall figure, the hatchet 
face, sharp nose, wears glasses, and always carries an um- 
brella. About one each day will pass down this route in 
Summer, except when an Eastern or Westprn Excursion 
comes, then it will be hard to select those who are not of 
her kind. The first object that strikes the eye is our manly 
figure. After looking it will over, she remembers that fat 
people are proverbly jolly and good natured, so she breaks 
into conversation, and about the first question she asks, is: 
" Were you always as large as you are now ?" " Oh ! Yes. 
I was born this size." The answer causes her to discover 
she has left out the word "proportion." So she apologizes, 
smiles for the first time, and we are friends for the trip. 



^9 



Route ' B." 



The boats of the R. & O. N. Co. Royal Mail line leave 
Kingston at five o'clock a. m., except on Monday, for Al- 
exandria Bay and Montreal. 

For the first three-quarters of an hour, there is nothing 
especially worthy of note. Then we strike the cross over 
channel. Now, the time is early morning, the sun is quite 
bright, and the atmosphere is remarkably clear. The scene 
is now attractive. Look ahead in the distance a little to 
the left, and you will behold the eagle tree. Hundreds 
have been deceived with the idea that it was an actual live 
eagle, spreading its wings and soaring aloft to a height that 
the imagination can scarcely reach. It is a delusion ,' 'tis 
nothing but a tree, as its true features, or rather beautiful 
foliage, has deceived the eye of the novice of this region. 

On the left is Grindstone Island. On it is an organized 
community. The inhabitants are farmers, and for the edu- 
cation of whose children a school is maintained. 

CLAYTON 

is in the American channel. In the distant front, just be- 
fore landing, we have a magnificent view of ^^v^speci park 
and hill, a delightful spot for recreati^Jn and pleasure. No 
better view can be had of the iF>lands and surrounding 



30 

country than from the eminence of the hill. Clayton is our 
first stopping place. It is a village that derives its impor- 
tance to tourists as being the terminus of the Utica and 
Black River Railroad, and here it is where passengers from 
the East generally get their first glimpse of the St. Law- 
rence. There are three good hotels, the Hubbard, Walton 
and The West End Hotels, kept by as genial landlords as 
ever lived, and from the town many fishing parties go out 
daily. The steamer J. F. Maynard runs from this port in 
connection with the above named railroad for Alexandria 
Bay and other landing places eii route. Opposite Clayton, 
on the left as we proceed down the river, is Governor Island, 
owned by Hon. Thomas G. Alvord, of Syracuse. Next to 
Gov. Alvord's Isle on left is Calumet, five acres, owned by 
Chas. E. Emery, of Old Judge cigarette and tobacco fame, 
who has lavishly expended a large amount of money for 
comfort. His villa and apartments are quite striking. 
Last season he purchased the steam yacht Lancet said to be 
the fastest yacht on the river. The next island on the left, 
about 200 yards distant, is Powder Horn. The origin of 
this " euphonious" name has not been handed down by tra- 
dition. On the right is Washington Island ; on the left, 
nearly opposite, is Bluff Island, and behind which is Robin's 
Island. Next, on the right, over two miles from Clayton, is 

ROUND ISLAND 

•and park. This is the property of the Baptist Association, 
and every year people of this persuasion in large numbers 
gather iC?!^ religious worship and recreation. There is a 
tenperance hotel, fitted with the modern appointments, for 
the accommodation of ;;joo guests, named the Round Island 



House. The docks are in excellent condition, and the fish- 
ing boats are favorites. On the left is Little Round Island 
and " Hog's Back." We have now several cottages in view ; 
the one painted dark brown is owned by Mr. Harbodle. 
On the point is Ethelridge cottage, and many others not 
known to me, as they spring up as ([uickly as mushrooms 
do in an open field. 

Leaving Round Island, and looking in the distant front, 
we have a view of the Thousand Island Park. About one 
mile from Round Island on the right is Watch Island or 
"Indolence," owned by S. T. Skinner. On the left are 
Blutf, Maple and Hemlock, the three pretty islands fronting 
the foot of Grindstone Island. On Hemlock is the CHff 
House, owned by Mr. Garrison, of Syracuse. About five 
minutes after leaving Round Island, we come in sight of 
Hub Island and House, burned in March, 1884, which lie 
on the left ; Crrinnell's Island and House ; Otsego Camp is 
also on the left. On the right is Fisher's landing, Robinson's 
island, owned by Eugene Robinson, New York banker and 
broker (he broke Drew), Johnson's light, Washburn Island 
and Frederick Island. Mr. Johnson, the original light-house 
keeper, and after w^hom the island is named, was the man 
who burned the Robert Peel, the English vessel, in retaUa- 
tion for sending the Carolina over Niagara Falls. 

Just before landing at Thousand Island Park, upper end 
of Well's Island, now called Wellesley Island, is Twin Island, 
owned by J. L. Huntington. On the left, and in connec- 
tion with the Thousand Island Park, is the bath house, in 
a delapidated condition, where the Methodists can get bap- 
tism, a la Bob Ingersoll, with soap. Said to be good for 
this world, if not hereafter. We now land at 



32 

THOUSAND ISLAND PARK. 

The boat stops at the western end of Wells Island, at a 
iine wharf, and close to a large number of handsome cot- 
tages. You can tell what the place is the moment you ap- 
proach it. There is no mistaking a Methodist Summer 
camp, find it where you will. It is always neat and clean 
and orderly. This is the Thousand Island Park, a Metho- 
dist resort, opened in 1873, Although the scenery is some- 
what marred by the great number of solemn-faced clergy- 
men strolling about the grounds, it is still one of the most 
beautiful spots to be found among the islands. Camp- 
meetings are held here; also Sunday-school and temperance 
and educational conventions, and other meetings all through 
the summer. A large and spacious hotel completed, was 
opened July loth, 1883. The name was originally Thous- 
and Island Camp Ground, but was changed in 1878 to its 
present name. 

Again on our way, the first house on the left is owned by 
Harlow J. Remington, Ilion, whose fame and fortune is in 
rifles. Next on the left Wellesley House and beautiful 
cottage. On the right, handsome villas line the shore of 
the island. About half a mile from Wellesley House is 
Jolly Oak point, with its four cottages, two owned by the 
Norton brothers, a third by Dr. Ferguson, and the fourth 
by Hon. W. W. Butterfield, of Redwood. From here to 
Lookout point is about half a mile ; and next is Rood's 
place, with a fine dock and good accommodations for tour- 
ists. About two hundred yards below is Peel's dock where 
the boat Robert Peel was burned in 1837. This dock was 
rebuilt in 1884. Robin's cottage, 100 feet to the left; a 
little below on the right is the farm of Captain Jack ; you 



can see the old saw-mill in a dilapidated condition on the 
bank. Opposite on the left is the celebrated Limburger 
cheese factory. (Post mortem examinations held here week- 
ly). (This "goak" would take better if you was just intro- 
duced to Limburger for the first time) On the right is 
Collins' dock ; below a few feet is Calumet Island, and 
cottage, owned by Rev. Henry ^i. Waite, of Ilion, N. Y. 
On the right lies the remains of old Captain Jack's boat, gone 
to rest. * * * Here you are expected to drop a tear. 
Brown's Bay on the left and Swan Bay on the right. The 
next island on the right is owned by Mr. Moffet, of Water- 
town, N. Y. Passing the bays, we come on the right to 
Central Park, formerly Grinnell's Point and parade ground, 
purchased by parties and laid out for a park. Several large 
and beautiful cottages were built last season and many con- 
templated for this season. Foot of Central Park is Page 
point, a former wood station for the N. T. Co.'s line of 
steamers. On the right is 

POINT VIVIAN. 

Point Vivian is situated on the main shore of the St. 
Lawrence River, about 2^ miles from Alexandria Bay. It 
was formerly owned by Capt. W. H. Houghton, and was 
purchased by Messrs. Geo. Ivers, John J. Kinney, Isaac A. 
Wood, Dr. L. E. Jones, R. Barnes, Rezot Tozer and E. 
Hungerford, in the fall of 1877 (all of Evans Mills, N. Y.) 
They had it surveyed into 40 building lots, with parks 
avenues and streets. A magnificent dock was built 200 
feet long, and any boat from a skift' to an ocean steamer 
can land here. 



34 

Point Vivian is one of the pleasantest resorts on the 
river ; here, every one throws off all business cares, sitting 
under the wide spreading branches of the fragrant Pine, 
watching sail and steam crafts passing up or down this 
beautiful Queen of rivers. It is situated in what is known 
as the narrows and is noted for its fine fishing grounds. 
The boss fisherman on the point is Tozer, he appears to 
have a charm (we don't know where) but we know he has 
one, and when he launches his basque, the fish swarm 
around and just ask to be "tuk in," and are always took. 

The following named persons together with the original 
purchasers have built cottages here : 

R. Rodenhurst, Theresa, N. Y. 

Mrs. Chadwick, Theresa, N. Y. 

C. Allen, Theresa, N. Y. 

Sidney Cooper, Watertown, N. Y. 

C. Young, Syracuse, N. Y. 

L. Sharon Sterlingville, N. Y. 

Mr. Aldrich, Sterlingville, N. Y. 

M. Horton, Watertown, N. Y. 

Taylor, Watertown, N. Y. 

W. S. Cooper, Evans Mills. 

E. O. Hungerford, Evans Mills. 

A. M. Cook, Evans Mills. 

C. Briant, Evans Mills. 

E. Hungerford, Evans Mills. 

Whitney & Kinney, Gouverneur. 

L. Smith, Gouverneur, 

Several gentlemen from Watertown have purchased a 
number of lots adjoining and have been incorporated with 



35 

the point. The management intends to add some valuable 
improvements the coming season, grading the streets and 
avenues, building a large ice house, putting up wind mill, 
&c. There are a few more desirable lots for sale on this 
point, those contemplating building on the river would do 
well to visit this famous resort. Connected with this point is 

LONG POINT, 

owned by Mr. Curtis of Cleveland, Ohio, he has erected a 
nice cottage thereon where he spends his summer. Curtis 
is a "prince of good fellows" and the pointers reckon on 
him as one of 'em. 

The officers are : 
W. S. Cooper, President. 

Sidney Cooper. R. Rodenhurst, John J. Kinney. Trus- 
tees. 

W. M. Comstock, Secretary. 

Opposite Point Vivian on the left is Island Royal, owned 
by Royal E. Dean, of New York, firm of Bramall, Dean & 
Co. Mr. Dean is a very enthusiastic lover of the scenery 
as well as the hunting and fishing in this vicinity, coming to 
this, his summer home, quite early in the spring, and often 
remaining until winter fairly sets in, for no where else can 
he get such a variety of fish and game and have the sur- 
roundings so agreeable. 

After leaving Point Vivian, on the right, is Curtis Point 
and cottage. The next is Alleghaney Point, owned by J. 
S. Laney, of Pittsburg, Pa. The fence was built to keep 
the children from falling into the river. Next on the right 
is Keppler Point, Beula Vista Lodge, owned by F. A. Bos- 



36 

worth, of Milwaukee, Wis., he is an invalid, and has not 
been home for ten years, says he will not return home until 
he can walk. I am pleased to say he told a friend of mine 
that his stay of three months here was of more benefit to 
him than a tour through Europe. Centennial Isle is owned 
by Mr. Sissons, of Watertown, N. Y. Comfort, in close 
proximity is owned by A. S. Clark, of the Chicago 111. Board 
of Trade. His is the largest and finest cottage of the 
group. Beyond is Hills island, also, Devil's Rock and 
Oven. This gentleman has expended a large amount of 
money m building a stone wall around the same, and in 
many ways beautifying the surroundings. On the left is 
Winslow Point and Seven Isles. Beyond is Louisiana Point 
owned by Judge La Batte, of New Orleans. Next on the 
right is Warner's Isle, very much on the dilapidated order. 
On the right is Cuba Isle, owned by W. F. Storey, of Buf- 
falo, N. Y., and is occupied by Mr. Easton and family, of 
N. Y. A little further on is Cleveland Point and Edgewood 
Cottage owned by G. C. Martin, of Watertown, N. Y. 
Next on the right is Cherry Isle, upon which are erected 
several cottages, one is owned by Rev. George Rockwell, 
of Fulton, N. Y.; he was the first pastor of the Reformed 
Church of Alexandria Bay. The large brown cottage is 
owned jointly by A. B. Pullman, and G. B. Marsh, of Chi- 
cago, 111. Opposite on the left is Pullman, Nobby, Friendly, 
Rye, Welcome, Florence, Imperial and Linlith Gow. This 
group may be seen in the order given, beyond is Westmin- 
ster Park, Hart's Island, Fairy Land and Dishler. We now 
shoot into Alexandria Bay. 



The Thousand Island House. 






Situated on the River St. Liiwrence, at Alexandria Bay, Jeflereon 
County, New York, and in the immediate vicinity of tlie far-famed 

THOUSAND ISLANDS, 

The very Mecca of Pleasure-Seekers. Tlie Centre of Gravity. The 
pivot upon which revolves everything. 

Tliis House contains all the modern improvements, with elevator. 
Rooms single or en suite, with bath rooms and closets attached, and 
everything that can add to tiie comfort or convenience of the guests. 

Travelei-s will find this place as liealthful as it is beautiful, witii no 
mosquitoes or ciiills and fever, while to the finest scenery in the world 
are added to the attractions of 

BOATING, FISHING, HUNTING AND BATHING, 

AS WELL AS 

BILLARDS, BOWLING ALLEY, CROQUET GROUNDS, Etc. 

Parties taking rooms for the season will find liberal deductions 
from regular rates. Send for pamphlet with terms, et . 

At this Hotel was held the Banquet tendered President Arthur, in 
October, 1882. 

R. H. SOUTHGATE, Proprietor, 

Alexandria Bay, New York. 

CHAS. P. CLEMES, Manager, 

Late of Murray Htll Hotel. N. Y. 



38 

ALEXANDRIA BAY, 

which is three or four miles long, and one-and-a-half miles 
wide, reaching from the shore, on the American side, to 
Wells Island. The chief feature around here is the grand 
hotels — the largest known as the Thousand Island House ; 
the finest building on the St. Lawrence river. From the 
Bay fishing parties are constantly going out. The channels 
about the islands are the Paradise of fishermen. The boats 
are the most convenient and comfortable in the world, the 
boatmen the most accommodating, and the pickerel, pike 
and gamey black bass and rock bass, and muscalonge, in 
the greatest abundance. 

WHAT AND WHO MADE ALEXANDRIA 
BAY. 

In 1872, President Grant visited this delightful spot, a 
guest of R. M, Pullman, of palace car fame, Pullman 
Island. There was at that time inadequate hotel accom- 
modations, for the tourist as well as the visitor who had 
been drawn to this the most beautiful natural scenery in the 
world. Messrs. Cornwall and Walton of Alexandria Bay 
with their usual display of sense and sagacity, as well as 
business tact for which they have always been commended, 
offered to give the best site on the St. Lawrence to any man 
who would erect upon it, a first class summer hotel. Mr. 
O. G. Staples, of Watertown, N. Y., hearing of this offer 
came, he saw, and how he conc^uered you shall know as we 
proceed with our narrative. Well, he concluded to father 
the scheme, securing a man with money, a Mr. Nott, of 
Syracuse, the ground, or rock rather, was broken January 



39 

1 4th, 1873, and the Thousand Island House was completed 
and opened July 17th, 1873, just six months from the day 
of starting. Rumor says that although their money gave 
out a little above the first story Staples' indomitable will saw 
it completed and furnished, ready to receive guests, just as 
soon and as well as if he had been a millionare. During 
the next two years of the partnership of Staples and Nott. 
everything did not go as smoothly as a marriage bell, but 
still they went, and in the end Staples had the money and 
hotel. (I hope the reader if he knows Staples will not be 
so unkind as to accuse him of parting with all his experience 
and make the pun that he took the money and Nott the 
experience.) Staples bought out Nott, and I believe, paid 
him what was agreed, and he run the hotel until April 
15th, 1883, when Mr. R. H. Southgate, (the man of many 
hotels, too numerous to mention here), bought him out. 
The many changes that have been made, and those con- 
templated, and when completed, will make this the mecca 
of summer resort watering places, the Venice of America. 
I desire to say right here that I hope Mr. Southgate will 
not lose sight of what has in the past made the Bay popular 
as a resort. I Hke to see the standard of visitors raised as 
well as the prices. I would like it to be the place for fish 
as well as those who love the piscatorial art. No dust, no 
dampness, no malaria or hay fever, no mosquitoes, light, dry 
air, cool and bracing. Thermometer never over 80 nor be- 
low 50 in July or August, and one can enjoy what is denied 
them almost everywhere else, a good nine hours of cool re- 
freshing sleep under a blanket. Those troubled with pul- 
monary complaints will find great relief here. Steamers, 
steam yachts and sailing vessels abound, everything to ani- 



40 

mate the scene and inhance the pleasure of visitors is done. 
Fishing, fishing boats, bathing, etc., as well as fish abounds, 
and we say here, if you have never been to the Bay come, 
if you have been, come and see it under the new reign of 
success, and I know you will be pleased. The season of 
1885 the Thousand Island House will be under the man- 
agement of Chas. P.^ Clemes, who for the past seven years 
has been connected with such hotels as the Rossin House, 
Toronto, Windsor, Montreal, Albermarle and Murray Hill, 
N. Y., which ought to be all the reference required to as- 
sure guests of the Thousand Island House that they will be 
well taken care of. 

VISITORS AT THE 1,000 ISLANDS, 

who desire to visit Montreal and return by boat (their time 
being Hmited), the following information will be of interest. 
All passengers arrive in Montreal between six and seven 
o'clock, p. m., as there is little to see at night and very little 
time to see it in. The boat leaves her dock, Canal Basin to 
return, every morning at 9 o'clock, except Sunday. You can 
remain in Montreal until the 12 M., train for Lachine from 
the G. T. R. Station, (by taking that train, fare 35 cents, you 
will arrive at Lachine in time to take the boat and enjoy your 
dinner while passing through Lake St. Louis.) Should you 
desire to prolong your stay, remain in Montreal until the 5 
p. m., train leaves same depot for Coteau Landing. A car- 
riage in waiting will take you to the boat, fare from Mon- 
treal, including carriage $1.25. You will take passage 
from there at seven o'clock, and have your supper on board 
of boat while passing through Lake St. Francis. As it 
takes the boat sixteen hours longer to come back, than to 



41 

go down, (reason, they are compelled to pass through the 
Lachine, Bohomoise and Cornwall canals, which con- 
sumes the time.) All passengers arrive at Alexandria Bay, 
every day, between one and two o'clock, j). m., except on 
Monday. 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT CATCHING FISH. 

During the summer of 1884 1 was at the Thousand Is- 
land House, Alexandria Bay, N. Y., and took note of some 
of the best catches of fish, which with pleasure I give space 
here, that my friends may see, and those who may have 
heard that there is no good fishing at the bay, a chance to 
judge. Let me first say that anybody can catch fish of the 
following varieties anywhere in the St Lawrence River : 
Rock Bass, Black Bass, Perch, Pike, Pickerel and Musca- 
longe. I have caught, off the dock at the bay, in less than 
two hours, a Black Bass weighing three and one half pounds 
and a Pickerel weighing over six pounds. 

THE FISH CATCH OF 1884. 

While the fishing commenced quite early last season the 
first catch of note was made by Dr. J. L Perry, of Sara- 
toga Springs, N. Y., on June 24th, which consisted of Black 
Bass, Pickerel and Muscalonge, and the Doctor is credited 
with catching the largest Muscalonge of the season weigh- 
ing 18 pounds. 

Mr. Abe Harris, of N. Y., caught, July 4th, two Black 
Bass weighing 4J and 4^ pounds each, his entire catch num- 
bered 27, and he was only three hours away. 

Mr. M. J. HuRCH, caught July 6th, four of the largest 



42 

Oswego Bass of the season, their respective weights being 
5i 5h 4h 4f. 

Mr. George Miller, of 916 Sixth Avenue, N. Y., caught 
a Pickerel, July 8th, weighing 14 pounds. 

Quite an excitement prevailed on the morning of July 8th, 
in front of the 1,000 Island House, where three gentlemen 
guests caught each a pickerel, weighing respectively 7J, 5J 
and 4 pounds. Will Estus, a fisherman, caught the same 
day a pickerel weighing 7 pounds. 

Dr. Hauks, a dentist of New York, caught in two hours, 
not two hundred yards from the Hotel five Pickerel, the 
largest weighing 12 pounds, and four others 15 pounds. The 
Doctor prefering Bass fishing, caught one day 24 fish that 
did not vary two ounces from two pounds each, a very pretty 
sight to look upon if you admire fish. 

Mr. Hurburt R. Clark, of New York, firm of Teft, 
Weller & Co., is probably the most enthusiastic as well as 
the best posted gentleman that comes to the bay to fish. He 
caught during the month of June, 1,407 Black Bass. The 
custom prevails, or rather the law is, that no fish is kept that 
weighs less than one pound. Mr. Clark put back of the 
above number 900, the tails of which he clipped in a pecu- 
liar manner, so he may know each year if the same fish is 
caught again. One day last summer he caught a Bass while 
the dinner horn was blowing, and in his haste he gave tlie 
fish a diff"erent clip from the usual one, and proceeded to 
dinner. Upon his return, the first fish caught was the one 
he clipped before taking his meal. He must have been 
stuck on Clark or the bait, the reader can judge for himself. 

Mr. F. G. Ringold, of Cincinnati, Ohio, an experienced 
fisher in those waters for over 20 years ; he knows just 



43 

where to catch any kind of fish desired. I tested his ability 
in that channel one day by ordering several varieties as well 
as sizes of fish, and the order was filled to the letter in 
every particular, consisting of two four-pound Bass, two 
Pike weighing seven pounds, etc., etc. One great trouble 
he encountered as well as others during the forepart of the 
season, was the abundance of sniall shad said to have been 
put ni to propagate the streams by Seth Green, the fish cul- 
turist of N. Y., which furnish food for the large fish, so they 
are not tempted by bait. The day I speak of, Mr. F. G. 
Kingold said that the first fishes caught each threw uj) one 
of those small shad upon being thrown into the boat. 

Messrs. J. S. ^: S. H. Ehrich, Ehrich Brothers, of N. 
Y., came to the Bay to catch fish and enjoy themselves, 
which they do. They caught, July 25th, 35 Black Bass, 
two of which weighed 7 pounds. They took their yacht for 
a twenty-four hour trip among the Islands, returning inside 
the day with 217 Black and Oswego Bass, weighing from i^ 
pounds to 5 pounds each They caught the first Musca- 
longe of the season. 

W. C. CoMPTON a guest of Mr. Ringold, of Cincinnati, 
caught, July 25th, 22 Black Bass, weighing 37 pounds, the 
largest 3^, 3 and 2^ pounds. 

W. H. Eagan, of Chicago, 111. Mr. Thomas De Silver 
and F. H. Rockwell, of Warren, Pa., formed a party to take 
in a few days fishing among the Islands, July 23, they 
brought home 65 Black Bass weighing 115 pounds the largest 
weighing 3 J pounds, the best average size fish of the season. 

W. Irving Snyder, Sporting Goods House, Nassau St., 
N. Y., caught a Pickerel, weighing 6^ pounds, within one 
hundred yards of the 1,000 Island House, July 29th. 



44 

Mr. G. DeWitt, Belleville, N. J., caught an Oswego Bass 
weighing 6 pounds, and 5 Black Bass weighing from i to 
3 pounds each. 

Mr. a. J. Post, of Jersy City, caught 12 Black Bass» 
weighing 27 pounds, the largest weighed 3 J pounds. 

Mr. G. W. Pease and Mrs. A. Given, caught, Aug. 4thy 
10 Pickerel weighing from 2^ to 5f each. 

Mrs. M. Hemingway, Jr., of Watertown, Conn., caught, 
Aug. 5th, a Pickerel weighing 7 pounds. 

Mrs. H. R. Clark, of N. Y., caught. Aug. 5th, 16 Black 
Bass weighing 24 pounds, the largest ^^ pounds. 

Mr. Dabney Carr, of St. Louis, Mo., caught three Bass 
weighing 7 pounds, and 7 Pickerel weighing 29 pounds. 

Little Charley Neilson, caught a Pickerel, Aug. 6th^ 
weighing 5^ pounds. His brother caught on the same day 
one weighing 4^ pounds. 

Mrs. M. p. Dunbar, of N. Y., caught, Aug. 6th, 6 Pick- 
erel weighing 24 pounds, the largest weighed 6 J pounds. 

H. M. Williams, of N. Y., caught 7 Wall Eyed Pike 
weighing 28 pounds. 

W. E. Lanier, of N. Y., caught a Black Bass, Aug. 8th,, 
weighing 3J pounds. 

Alex B. Simon, of N. Y., caught a Wall Eyed Pike weigh- 
ing 7 pounds. 

Mr. Jule S Ehrich, of N. Y. and party, consisting of 
Mr. Mark Stein, W. H. B. Douse, of Boston, J. Stern. M. 
Schlein, C. Schlein, together caught, Aug. nth, 176 Black 
Bass weighing 250 pounds in six hours and twenty minutes* 

Mr. Harry M. Stadler, of N. Y., caught, Aug. 13th, a 
Wall Eyed Pike, weighing over 6 pounds, and several Black 
Bass weighing over 3 pounds. 



45 

Judge Troy, of Brooklyn, N. Y., and a select party, 
caught, Aug. 13, 100 Black Bass weighing from ij to 3 J 
pounds each. The Judge, who is a good shot with a rifle, 
brought home a Loon weighing 22 pounds, and a Mink. 
Being quite an amateur taxidermist he prepared them for 
his private collection, which I understand is quite large and 
contains many rare specimens. 

Mr. a. Isaacs and Mr. S. White, with their ladies, were 
Wishing, Aug. 12th, and caught 87 Black Bass in 9 hours. 

Mrs. a. Isaacs and her daughter caught the two largest 
Pickerel of the season, one weighed 13 lbs. and the other 
12 pounds. 

Mr. H. R. Clark and party caught in July, 1,658 Black 
Bass, 1,000 were less than one pound They took a trip 
Aug. 1 2th, with friends and caught 346 Black Bass. Mrs. 
A. J. Post, of Jersey City, caught a Bass weighing 4^ pounds. 

Miss Blanch Lincoln, of Boston, (relative of the late 
lamented Abraham), caught a Pickerel weighing over 3 
pounds, and several Black Bass. 

Mrs. R. L. Mosley and Mrs. A. B. Lincoln, of Boston, 
Mass., two very enthusiastics on catching fish, determined 
to make a record, making preparations for a week ahead, 
went out one day and both caught — cold. 

The palm for variety of fish for season of 1884, must be 
awarded to Charles E. Story, of N. Y., who caught, Aug. 
2ist, Black Bass weighing 2 J pounds, Black Bass i pound, 
Muscalonge 5 pounds. Chub if pounds, Wall Eyed Pike 
5i pounds. Pickerel 6 pounds ; 23 fish all told, and most 
every variety in the river. 

To those who say there is no fishing at Alexandria Bay, 
(and do not want the earth), allow me to say Mr. H. R. 



46 

Clark has a standing offer with me, to bet any man $io 
that he can catch ten pounds of fish (any where within a 
mile of the Hotel) in an hour. 

Mr. H. a. Redfield, of Hartford, Conn., caught 70 Black 
Bass in five hours. 

Mr. Adrien C. D'Henzel, caught, Aug. 20th, a Black 
Bass weighing 4 pounds, and a Wall Eyed Pike weighing 5 J- 
pounds. 

J. W. Cornish, of N. Y., caught 20 fish in two hours, 
the largest, a Bass weighing 3 J pounds. 

Miss Lily Stokem, of N. Y., caught a Pickerel weighing 
II pounds. 

Mr. W. R. Proctor, of N. Y., caught the best catch of 
Wall Eyed Pike for the season, Aug. 20th, five of them, 
weighed 19 pounds. 

Mrs. H. a. Redfield, of Hartford, Conn., was taking sl 
party of her friends out one day for fishing and pleasure, 
and I requested her to catch me a Whale. Upon their re- 
turn I was presented with a pecufiar specimen of the finny 
tribe, which, if not a Whale, was the opposite in size. It 
was neatly packed in a box and shown for several days, but 
the oldest fisherman could not say he ever saw its counter- 
part before. 

Mr. J. W. Case, owner of the Boat-Livery, who is the best 
boat builder at the Bay, also dealer in fishing tackle, rented 
a boat to Mr. Saunders, who caught thirteen Pickerel in two 
hours. Mr. Case, on a bet, took a man in a boat for one 
hour and caught seven Pickerel, the largest weighing 4 lbs. 
He won the bet. 

Mr. H. Merrell, of Montreal (firm of W. H. Merrell & 



47 

Co.), caught at Hamilton's Island, 84 pounds of Pike and 
Pickerel and four Bass weighing 4 lbs. each ; fourteen Pike 
weighed from 4 to 8 lbs. each. Mr. Merrell caught last 
season the largest Wall Eyed Pike ever taken from the St. 
Lawrence on an 8 oz. rod, 17^ pounds weight. He is con- 
sidered one of the best fishermen on the St. Lawrence. 

I am really sorry to cut this subject short, but space 
prevents my giving any more names and catches. The 
largest fish caught during the season, was a Muscalonge, 
weighing 38 lbs., caught at an island opposite Rockport ; 
the largest caught at the Bay, 18 lbs. ; the largest Pike, 7^^ 
lbs. ; the largest Pickerel, 13 lbs., and the largest Bass, 5^ 
lbs. Respectfully yours, 

E. F. BABBAGE. 

A REAL LIVE DUDE 

was at the Bay last season, and I must give him credit for 
one thing if I could not for having either money or brains, 
but will say he was very attentive to the ladies, and it may 
be said to his credit he never tried to cut me out. One 
fine morning he induced three of the nicest young ladies at 
the bay to take a boat ride, and for the privilege of their 
company agreed to do the rowing himself. They had been 
out upon the water for some time, and he had done the 
rowing heroically, but getting into the strong current his 
physical development was being tested to its utmost, when 
he asked the young ladies "if it would not be better for 
him to hug the shore." After a pause of a minute the girl-^ 
iest girl of the group exclaimed : " Well, if you ci^nnot find 
anything better to hug, do for Heaven sake 'hug the 
shore !' " 



48 



SOME OF THE OWNERS. 

St. John's, five acres, Judge C. Donohue, New York. 

Manhattan, five acres, Judge Spencer and J. L. Has- 
brouck. New York. 

Deshler, twelve acres, W. G. Deshler, Cokuiibus, O. 

Deer, twenty-five acres, S. Miller, Rochester, N. Y. 

Fairy Land, twenty acres, C. H. and W. B. Hayden, 
Columbus, O. 

Piatt, two acres, Sisson & Fox, Alexandria Bay. 

Brown's, ten acres, S. G. Pope, Alexandria Bay. 

Pleasant, three acres, Sisson & Fox, Alexandria Bay. 

Pulln\an's, three acres, George M. Pullman, Chicago, 111. 

Friendly, three acres, A. B. Parker and Abner Mellen, 
Jr., New York. 

Cherry, nine acres, the Reverend George Rockwell, Ful- 
ton, N. Y. 

Nobby, over three acres, H. R. Heath, New York. 

Welcome, three acres, S. G. Pope, Ogdensburgh, N. Y. 

Florence Proctor, one acre, E R. Proctor, Cincinnati, O. 

Maple, three acres, J. L. Hasbrouck, owner. 

Netts, one-half acre, E. A. Kollymer, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Summer Land, ten acres, the Reverend Asa Saxe, D. D., 
Rochester, N. Y.; Almon Gunnison, D. D., Brooklyn; and 
Richmond Fisk, D. D., Syracuse, N. Y. 

Isle Imperial, one acre, Mrs. LeCount, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Linleth Gow, one-half acre, R. A. Livingston, New York. 

Elephant Rock, one-fourth acre. T. C. Crittenden, Wa- 
tertown, N. Y. 

Idlewild, four acres, R. A. Packer, Sayre, Pa. 

Arcadia and In a, two acres, S. A. Briggs, New York. 

Sport, four acres, H. A. Packer, Mauch Chunk, Pa, 



49 

Kit Grafton, one-fourth acre, Mrs. S. L. George, Water- 
town, N. Y. 

Island Mary, two acres, W. L. Palmer, Watertown, and 
James M. Browner, St. Louis. 

Little Charm, one-eighth acre, Mrs. F. W. Barker, Alex- 
andria Bay. 

Frost, two acres, Mrs. Sarah L. Frost, Watertown. 

Excelsior Group, five acres, C. S. Goodwin, Oneida, New 
York. 

Eesort, three acres. Pioneer Club, Watertown. 

Island Royal, Royal E. Dean, New York. 

Devil's Oven, one-fourth "ucre, has been fitted up with an 
observatory, H. R. Heath, New York. 

Sylvan and Moss, three acres, S. T. Woolworth, Water- 
town, N. Y. 

Cuba, five acres, W. F. Storey, Buffalo, N. Y., and occu- 
pied by Mr. Easton, of Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Little Angell, one-eighth acre, W. A. Angell, Chicago. 

Little Lehigh, one acre. Col. R. B. Yates, Rochester, and 
C. H. Cummings, New York. 

Warner's, four acres. 

Island Home, one acre, S. D. Hungerford, Adams, N. Y. 

Sunny Side, one acre, Mrs. Emily Moak, Watertown, 
N. Y. 

Wild Rose, one acre, W. G. Rose, Cleveland, Ohio. 

No name, one-quarter acre, Mrs. F. Hammerkin, Syra- 
cuse, N. Y. 

Harmony, one-quarter acre, Mrs. Celia Berger, Syracuse, 
N. Y. 

Wynnstay, one acre, Mrs. Bergin, of Spuyten-Duyvel, 
N. Y. 

AHce Isle, two acres, J. G. Hill, Brooklyn, N. Y. 



50 

Sunbeam Group, one acre, C. E. Ailing, Rochester, N. Y. 

Walton, two acres, Mrs. Robins, and Mrs. Robinson, of 
New York and Brooklyn, purchased in 1883, will be im- 
proved by all the art at their command. 

Bula Vista, Lodge Keepler Point, owned by Mr. Bos- 
worth, of Milwaukee, Wis. 

Seven Sister Isles, owned by Dr. Winston, of Washington, 

D. C. 

Comfort, formerly Pratt and Centennial, owned by A. E. 
Clark, of Chicago Produce Exchange, who has spent 
$20,000 upon the spot to beautify it. 

Deer Island, owned by Hon. Sam. Miller, of New Haven, 
Conn., formerly of Rochester, N. Y. 

Melrose Lodge, owned by Mrs. A. B. Pullman and Mrs. 
C. B. Marsh. 

riorance Island, owned by H. S. Chandler, of the Inde- 
pendent. 

Two-Islands-in-Eel-Bay, two acres, E. L. Sargent, Water- 
town, N. Y. 

Long Branch, ten acres, Mrs. C. E. Clark, Watertown, 

N. Y. 

Nigger, three acres, Eugene Robinson, of New York. 

Ella, one-quarter acre, R. E. Hungerford, Watertown, 
N. Y. 

Lookout, two acres, Thomas H. Borden, New York. 

Grinnell Island, two acres, D. G. Grinnell, Brooklyn, 
N. Y. 

Douglass, three acres, Douglass Miller, New Haven 

Conn. 

Hart's, five acres, E. Kirke Hart, Albion, N. Y. 
Sunny-Side, two acres, Wm. Stickenson, Sayre, Pa. 
Wau Winnett, two acres, Mr. Hill, Chicago, 111. 



51 



WESTMINSTER PARK. 

Opposite the Thousand Island House, is Westminster 
Park, on the lower end of Wells Island. It is eight miles 
long and from three to four miles wide. On the other 
side of it is the Canadian channel of the river, about half a 
mile wide. The lower end of tfiie Island is separated into 
two parts by one of the prettiest sheets of water that ever 
rippled against the bows of a canoe. This is called the 
"Lake of the Island," and it is connected with the river, on 
both the American and Canadian sides, by a narrow chan- 
nel. The Lake is five or six miles long, as smooth as glass, 
and is altogether too pretty and too romantic to attempt to 
describe. 

Westminster Park was bought in 1874 by a Presbyterian 
stock company, and it now has about 15 miles of drives 
and some fine buildings. It has two long water fronts — one 
on the American side of the river, and the other on the 
Lake of the Island, on the Canadian side, there is a high 
hill on the island called Mount Beulah, though after climb- 
ing it I think the Hill Difficulty would be a more appro- 
priate name. There is a large chapel on the top of the 
hill, known as Bethune Chapel, with seating accommoda- 
tions for a thousand persons, and with a tower 136 feet 
high, afi"ording a beautiful view of the river and the islands. 
The name of the chapel recalls the fact that the late Rev. 
Dr. Geo. W. Bethune was the pioneer tourist through this 
region, and till his death continued to come here summer 
after summer for recreation. 



52 

BONNIE CASTLE. 

"Timothy Titcomb" (Dr. J. G. Holland, editor of 
Scribner's Monthly), chose this point as [a haven of rest 
and recuperation, and who does not commend his choice. 
It will be remembered that he died in New York shortly 
after leaving his cherished Bonnie Castle in 1881 for his 
ardous winter's labors. Li^ht house in the distance. 

A LETTER FROM SETH GREEN. 



NEW YORK STATE FISHERY COMMISSION. 



Office of the Superintendent. 

Rochester, N. Y., March 20th. 
My Dear Little " Phat Boy:" 

You request of me a letter for your book. Let- 
ter writing is not my forte, but yoa are welcome to use these 
facts. In 1855 I bought an island near Alexandria Bay, 
built a house upon it in the fall and moved there with my 
family the next spring and lived there during the summers 
of 1856 and 1857. The year 1858 I spent a part of the 
season with a party of prominent gentlemen. During the 
time I was there, if I wanted black bass for breakfast I 
could take my two fly rods and take from 5 to 10 black bass 
by trolling around my island of 4 acres, and any time after 
Aug. ist, I could take my gun and kill a mess of ducks in 
a short time. There was a few deer on Welles Island then. 
I have killed 50 ducks in one day among the islands, and I 
could take 100 black bass with fly any day I wished. 

Immediately opposite is Hart's Island, back of which is 
Deshler. Next on the left is 



53 

MANHATTAN, 

the first island on which habitation was attempted. It was 
bought by Mr. Seth Green, the fish culturist of N. Y., in 
1855. He built a cottage upon it and for several years spent 
his summers here. Mr. J. L. Hasbrouck and Judge J. C. 
Spencer^ of N. Y., purchased it from him. They have 
spent $15,000 upon the Island. ' The original cottage built 
by Seth Green still remains and is used by them as a dining 
room. 

Between Deshler and Manhattan, looking backward, is 
Fairyland, owned by C. H. and W. B. Hayden, of Colum- 
bus, O. This is really one of the finest islands in the river. 
At a vast expense art has triumphed over nature, trans- 
forming a barren into the loveUest of green lawns. Next 
on the left is Deer island ; then 

SUMMERLAND. 

Summerland, one of the most beautiful of the " Thous- 
and Islands," is located mid-way between the north and 
south channels of the St. Lawrence, about three miles be- 
low Alexandria Bay, having an area of fourteen acres and 
IS the largest of the "Summerland group," which includes 
"Idlewild," "Sport," "Ida" and "Arcadia." The island 
is covered with a dense forest furnishing an abundance of 
shade and is said to have the finest groves on the 
river. At the extreme northerly and southerly ends of the 
island there are extensive sandy beaches, a great rarity in 
this locaHty, which are used by the " Summerlanders" for 
bathing purposes. The island is traversed from end to end 
by a most delightful natural avenue, densely shaded and 
lined on either side with a thick undergrowth of wild 



54 

flowers and ferns. The island is owned by the Summerland 
Association, a corporation organized under and by virtue 
of the laws of the State of New York, for social and 
yachting purposes, and composed of the following stock- 
holders: Rev. Asa Saxe, D. D., Isaiah F. Force, James 
Sargent, Sears E. Brace, Emory B. Chase, Henry C. Wis- 
ner, Lewis P. Ross, Francis M. McFarlin, Chas. W. Gray, 
George H. Newell, Henry O. Hall, Joseph A. Stull and 
Frank W. Hawley, of Rochester, N. Y.; Rev. Richmond 
Fisk, D. D., Alfred Underhill and Horace Brouson, of 
Syracuse, N, Y.; Rev. Almond Gunnison, D. D., and Frank 
Sperry, of Brooklyn, N. Y. The association have erected 
upon the island a large and commodious " Club House" 
wherein the members of the association and their famiHes 
take their meals. 

After setting apart a large grOve at each end of the island 
for general use. the balance of the island was divided into 
lots, one of which was assigned to each stockholder. Upon 
these lots so assigned, the members of the association have 
erected cottages for the sole use of their own families. 

In addition to the Club House the association has erected 
numerous paviHons and summer houses in different parts of 
the island, together with a large ice-house and has con- 
structed several docks of sufficient size to permit of the land- 
ing of large steamers. 

The association owns a large steam yacht which is used 
in running to and from Alexandria Bay and for fishing and 
pleasure excursions. 

P>ach member of the association provides himself with 
sailing and row boats. The Club house is o]:)ened for the 
reception of the members of the association and tlieir im- 



55 

mediate familfts only^ on the first day of July of each year, 
and remains open until about September 15th, during all 
of which time the yacht is at the service of the party. 

Between Deer island and Summerland is Cedar ; back of 
Cedar is Sport, owned by H. A. Packer, who died in 1884. 
The island, however, will be occupied this year by H. C. 
Wilbur, G. B. Linderman, C. B. Newton, and other friends. 
Anthony point is on the right. This place is the resort of 
E. and T. H. Anthony, the extensive dealers in photogra- 
phic goods in New York. 

APING CUSTOMS, MANNERS, ETC., OF 
THE ENGLISH. 

This is done to a great extent, not only in Canada, but 
I am sorry to say in free America^ better known as the U. 
S. I cannot find any fault with the average Canadian who 
is, as it were, governed by Queen Victoria, and must have 
some reverence for royalty in the aping of their manners 
and customs, but in this land where we have an abundance 
of Queens, Princes, Lords and Sovereigns, who are not 
flattered by titles, but bear their honors meekly, all are 
royal born and bred. Speaking of titles reminds me that 
at home I am plain Edward F. Babbage, or " Phat Boy," 
(I spell it with ' Ph ' because it does not sound so greasy), 
but the moment I leave home, say for a trip through the 
South, I am called Captain for the first few hundred miles, 
then- a little way on it becomes Colonel, and when I get to 
Georgia it is Major, in South Carolina it is Judge or 
General, until I get to Florida, and I have heard them say 
there " great God is that you ? " but we diverge, returning 



56 

to the aping of the manners of Princess Louise. I wish 
to say right here that I firmly believe it did the Canadian 
people a great amount of good, but fail to see where the 
people of the United States could be benefitted. I was 
told that at Kingston the Princess asked for her strawberries 
in a box with the hulls on, and when placed before her she 
took them up by the stem between the thumb and finger 
and bit the berry off and placed the hull on the plate. Now 
everybody does the same ; previous to her visit they used 
to hull and wash them before placing them on the table. 
The same with grapes, they used to wash them in a goblet 
of water at the table before eating them, now they take the 
grape between the thumb and finger, press it gently to the 
lips and squeeze gently, and juice as well as insides are 
soon on the way to digestion, and the skin laid away on the 
plate as the Princess did. Asparagus, it was almost painful 
for me to see Canadians eat it in as many ways as there 
were people at the table, in fact no two ate it alike until 
after the Princess came ; now everybody takes it by the 
hard green end, between thumb and finger, and putting it 
into the mouth, closes the teeth down upon it and draws it 
gently from the mouth, leaving all that is digestible within 
and the remainder is laid on the plate. The Princess once 
took a walk through her kitchen at Rideau Hall, Ottawa, 
took the vegetable cook to task for washing fresh picked 
peas from the vine that had just been shelled, saymg, it was 
nonsense, if your hands were clean, to wash a virgir^ pea. 

YACHTING. 

Water — and as one enthusiastic writer puts it — such 
water ! — is abundant, and to enjoy this water in a pensive 



57 

or poetic mood, the steam yacht should be brought into 
requisition. Private yachts are numerous and elegant, and 
it is to the credit of the owners that they are not niggardly 
in exhibiting a spirit of generosity and courtesy. They are 
constantly inviting individuals and parties to enjoy the 
exhilerating excitement of the shooting around the beauti- 
ful spots. And if you, dear tourist, have no friend that 
invites you to share a cushioned seat in his graceful fairy- 
like craft, then go to Capt. E. W. Visger, on the Island 
Waitderer^ or Capt. Sweet, of the John Tkorn, and they 
will take you on an excursion among the islands that you 
will gladly recall as a cheerful reminiscence of your St. 
Lawrence excursion, for the opportunity will have been 
offered to bring within the range of your vision enchanting 
scenes that pen is not adequate to describe, but by pur- 
chasing one of the " Phat Boy's " Birdseye Maps of the St. 
Lawrence, you will be the possessor of the only correct 
map of the St. Lawrence. A perfect chart and guide to 
the river. 

Still continuing our course, looking to the right, is the 
cottage of Mrs. Clark of Watertown. Next, Goose bay is 
the island owned by Dr. Carleton, near which is the Three 
Sister's Island ; before the Three Sister's is Hume's Island. 
Next, on the left, is Whiskey Island, and on the right 
opposite are a number of large and small islands, the names 
of which we will not weary the tourist's brain with. 

Goose bay is really beautiful, if its name is slightly 
homely. It is studded with islands, and fishing abounds. 
It is here that Mr. Hurbert R. Clark, of New York, in one 
day caught some 300 pounds of black bass, ranging in 
weight from i^ pounds to 6|- pounds. On the right is 



S8 

Lyon's dock and IVIeeker's island. Next, on the left, is 
Three Sisters Hght ; in the distance is Lone Star, or Dark 
Island; Island No. i, it is called by some. After passing 
on the left is a small cluster of island shoals. On the right 
is Chippewa bay. This is a superb sheet of water, where 
the fishing is a marked feature. It is a favorite resort of 
Ogdensburg people, who occupy the contiguous islands. 
All around the shore are camps, cottages, etc., and make 
an animated scene for the tourist. Three miles from Chip- 
pewa bay on the left is Crossover light ; thence three miles to 
Cole's light on the left, where we enter the Canadian chan- 
nel. Nine miles in the distance is Brockville. On the 
right opposite Cole's light is Oak point. Four miles below 
is Allen's landing, a very popular place for picnics, etc. 
On the left a prominent bluft". On the right for six miles 
the islands come thick and fast ; huge rocks rise from the 
water's surface, with very little vegetation or foliage, and 
the boat makes her way rapidly among them, winding 
around like a snake, heading for all the points of the com- 
pass, frequently getting herself into coves and bays that 
apparently have no outlet, but always finding a channel, 
and sailing triumphantly out into the broad waters again. 

On the left three miles this side of Brockville is the wreck 
of a schooner, the S. M. Cook, laden with iron ore. She 
was sailing up ; the wind subsided, causing her to drift upon 
the rocks, and remained. The Cook was raised by the 
Kingston wreckers last season. A little beyond is St. Law- 
rence park, used for pleasure and jncnic parties, especially 
by our Canadian friends of Brockville. We are now at the 
village of Brockville ; we " take a rest " for route C. 

In front of Brockville are the last three of the Thousand 



59 

Islands ; being some distance from the rest it is presumable 
they drifted away, and finally rooted here. This, however, 
was " long befo' de wah ! " 

Opposite, on the right, is Morristown, a small, lively 
American village, of about i,ooo inhabitants, a station on 
the Utica and Black River R. R.; connects with Brockville 
by two steam ferries. 




This is a picture of my twin brother. Dr. E. F. Babbage, 

of Rochester, N. Y. " A friend in need." How I wish I 

was a doctor. 

" Phat Boy." 



6o 



Route C' 



Our object being to make this little book a complete 
Guide to the Thousand Islands and St. Lawrence River, so 
that tourists from any section, no matter where they strike, 
will find it intelligible to learn their location. We have there- 
fore divided the explanation into three routes First, we 
took our friends from New York to Niagara Falls, Lewis- 
ton, Toronto, Kingston and the Canada channel of the St. 
Lawrence as far as Brock ville. Second, our journey was 
from Cape Vincent, thence down the St. Lawrence through 
the American channel to Brockville. Third, and this is 
the route upon which we are now entering, will be from 
Cape Vincent to Alexandria Bay. 

CAPE VINCENT, 

is a pleasant little village in Jefferson county. N. Y., at the 
junction of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence river. It is 
also the terminus of the Rome, Watertown and Ogdensburg 
Railroad, and connections by Steamer St. Lawrence are 
made to Alexandria Bay. 

As we steam out of this port, on the left is Long, or 
Wolf Island, 21 miles in 'length, and 7 miles in width. The 
next on the riLi;ht is 



6i 

CARLETON ISLAND. 

At the upper extremity, the land narrows into a rugged 
promontory, ending in a blufif sixty feet in height. Here, 
lifting their ruined heads aloft, and plainly visible to all 
passers along the river, stand a number of toppling and 
half ruined chimneys. These may be seen for miles 
around. So long have these old sentinels watched over 
the scenes around them that their history is lost in the 
misty past. Around them are the remaining ruins of an 
old fort, supposed by many to be the ruins of old Fort 
Frontenac. Around its old redoubts and parapets linger 
antiquated historical legends and traditions enough to fill a 
volume and forming an interesting study. An ancient 
well, cut in the solid Trenton Hmestone down to the level 
of the lake, has been converted by the reckless imaginations 
of the natives into a receptacle of the golden doubloons 
which the French soldiers, upon evacuating the old fort, 
are said to have thrown there, with the brass guns on top 
of them. Upon either side, and immediately in front of 
the bluff upon which the old fort stands, is a quiet, pretty 
little bay, which may once have supplied a safe and easy 
anchorage for the vessels that lay under its protecting guns. 

The fortress is supposed to have been one of importance 
as a military post at some time, having been built upon an 
excellent plan and in the most substantial manner. Num- 
bers of graves still occupy a field near by, the remains of 
the brave soldiers who once occupied the fort. The scene 
is of deep interest to the students of history. 

About six miles this side of Clayton is Lindsay Island, 
the only one on the right between Cape Vincent and Clay- 



62 

ton. On the left, two miles before reaching Clayton, is 
Grindstone Island, five miles long. Cross-over channel is 
where the Canadian Hne of steamers, leaving Kingston at 5 
o'clock in the morning, comes through into the American 
channel. Before landing at Clayton is Prospect park and 
hill, which has been systematically laid out for villas and 
camping parties, and where tourists can always find a com- 
fortable stopping place. Although we have been traveling 
among the islands quite early in the morning, we have 
noticed that the people who occupy the cottages are all up, 
the ladies sitting on the piazzas reading, generally, and the 
gentlemen out in small boats fishing. There are two kinds 
of fishing done here — fishing for fun and fishing for fish. I 
cannot explain the distinction better than to repeat what a 
gentleman who was traveling with the party, said to me one 
afternoon : " We are going to take the ladies out fishing 
to-morrow," he said, " to give them a taste of the sport- 
Then, the next day, we are going out alone to catch some 
fish." 

"DON'T DO IT." 

This startling headline when it strikes the eye denotes 
that there is something to be said of personal benefit to the 
reader of the article, and we hope to make it pleasant as 
well as profitable to those who take the time to peruse it. 
To begin with we desire to say, don't get fat, do not allow 
yourself to develop beyond the line which is laid down for 
the average man or woman ; because, if you do, the average 
chair will not fit, the average seat in a railroad coach will 
be too small, you will be obliged to shrink into it and then 
take up the seat of another after you get in. The same 
trouble will occur at amusements, which you enjoy very 



63 

much, but it so distorts you to occupy the chair that the 
pleasure is lost ; the average door to a hack is too small^ 
and so is the omnibus, and you are obliged to walk. Here 
you will enjoy it, especially if it is a little slippery, dropping 
now and then three hundred and twenty pounds because 
your friend thinks it does not hurt a fat man to fall. You 
will get no sympathy from anyone, this I will gurantee ; 
because I have tried it. By way of illustration, if I had 
not eaten anything for three days but a yard of pump 
water, and was to come to a friend and say I was hungry^ 
and had not had anything to eat for three days, he would 
look me all over and in reply would say : " Well, I guess 
you can stand it until next fall." So the fleshier you are 
the least sympathy you get ; and if Dr. Tanner stood it for 
forty days you have sufficient fat to last you six months, to 
say the least. Second, you become, as it were, a curiosity 
and all look at you with amazement, and wonder what 
circus or side show you escaped from, or to what dime 
museum you belong to. Third, there isn't anything made 
for the average man that will fit you, therefore, everything 
must be made to order that you wear, except a necktie, 
pair of socks, or handkerchief. The latter must be seven- 
eighths to a yard wide in order to hold the prespiration it 
will mop up in once passing over your manly brow. Fourth, 
when at the age of 21, and weighing 225 pounds, I had no 
trouble in making a selection of a partner^ for life. She 
climbed the golden stairs about three years ago, and now I 
am fair, fat, funny and forty. If I find one now who loves 
a fat man, I am a little too fat— therefore, this world is a 
very chilly one for me. 

After you become a little above the average size as I 



64 

have in development and are conspicuous, everybody will 
know you ; if they do not, it will be easy for them to find 
out, all they are obHged to do is to ask anyone. You wont 
know only those of your relations and friends very near to 
you. Then this world will be very lonesome and cold, or 
your experience will be ditlerent from mine. It would be 
a treat (were you not sensitive) if you could walk one block 
and hear the expressions that come from the vulgar throng 
as they pass. One female, with eyes hke two saucers, ex- 
claimed : '' Glory be to the father, Mary Ann phwat's that ? " 
And another say " Got in himmell, what a fat man," or a 
lady of color declare, " Umph ! Umph ! ! Dat am de big- 
gest man I ebber seed." 

FROM BROCKVILLE TO MONTREAL. 

Leaving Brockville, a magnificent view greets the eye ; 
islands are not now in view ; the river is a most beautiful 
sheet of water running perfectly straight for about sixteen 
miles with the land on either side in good view, for the 
river is a little over two miles wide. Three miles from 
Morristown, on the right, is a camp ground of the Baptist 
persuasion, mostly. from St. Lawrence county. Five miles 
on the left from Brockville is Maitland. At this point is a 
prominent object known as the old distillery, whose proprie- 
tor is said to have been worth, at one time, a million dol- 
lars, but whose cupidity during "America's unpleasantness" 
led him into selling " crooked whiskey," or rather disposing 
of his distillery products in a very " crooked way." With- 
out giving the details, the facts in brief are : He antagon- 
ized the Canadian government in the matter of paying 
revenue, and in his fight for stupid supremacy, he not only 



6s 

lost his distillery, but his fortune, too, and he and his 
family became reduced to poverty, and none of them re- 
main around their former home. It is said he first induced 
his niece to marry the revenue collector of the district, that 
he might carry on the nefarious business in collusion and. 
without detection, but you see, 

'• The deep laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee." 

About four miles below, on the left, is the old blue stone 
church, in the graveyard of which rests the remains of the 
founder of Methodism on this continent, Barbara Heck. 
One mile farther, on the left, is McCarthy's new brick 
brewery. Half a mile beyond is the celebrated Rysdick 
stock farm, owned by Hon. J. P. Wiser, M. P. Here is 
owned the celebrated stallion, Rysdick, which cost Mr. 
Wiser $25,000. It is a farm of about 600 acres, and is 
unquestionably the finest stock farm in the Dominion of 
Canada. The thrift, energy and abihty of this gentleman 
will not be wondered at when it is learned that he is of 
American birth. Next, on the left, is the celebrated La- 
batt's brewery and 

PRESCOTT, 

with its 3,000 inhabitants, who seem to have lost their grip 
on the trade of the river, judging from the dilapidated con- 
dition of the stores, warehouses, etc., on the wharves. The 
town, however, is handsomely laid out, has a fine city hall 
and market, and there are many fine private residences. 
It is connected with Ottawa, capital of the Dominion, by 
the St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad, distance 54 miles. 
Here many tourists who desire to visit the capital disembark 
for that purpose. We refer the tourist to Daniel's Hotel as 



66 

a good stopping place. L, H. Daniels has taken the hotel, 
and spent $8,000 in improvements ; he is too well known 
to the traveling public to need any praise from me. Oppo- 
site is 

OGDENSBURG, 

founded by Francis Picquit in May, 1749. ^^ ^^^^ contains 
about 10,000 people, and of course ranks as a city. It is 
the terminus of the Rome and Watertown, Utica and Black 
River, and the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain railroads. 
It is beautifully laid out, well planted with maple trees, and 
is called the " Maple City." It has a United States Cus- 
tom House, post-office, and a new opera house, costing 
$150,000, six fine church edifices, water works, gas works, 
a fire alarm telegraph and two daily newspapers, and possi- 
bly other modern improvements. At the lower end of town 
is the big elevator of the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain 
Railroad. 

One mile and a half below Prescott, on the left, is Wind- 
mill point; the old windmill has been turned into a light- 
house. Here, in 1837, the " Patriots," under Von Shultz 
a PoHsh exile, established themselves, but from which they 
were driven with severe loss. We believe this Von Shultz 
was subsequently hung by the Canadian authorities, and 
his followers banished, probably to New Jersey. On the 
left, a little below the light-house, is the residence and farm 
of W. H. McGannon, the oldest pilot on the St. Lawrence 
river, the man who first took the Passport of the Richelieu 
line down the Long Sault Rapids, in July, 1847. I am 
also indebted to him for the correctness of my New Map of 
the St. Lawrence and other information of benefit to me 
and the public. 



67 

Three miles below, on the left, is Johnstown Bay, with 
Johnstown — not a very important trading post — overlook- 
ing. This place has a custom house officer, commissioner 
of fisheries, mayor and marshal of the district ; but these 
important officials are concentrated in one man. 

We turn here to the right, leaving the far-famed chim- 
ney island on the left, on which are said to be the ruins of 
old French forts, battlements, etc. The only remains we 
have discovered of these supposed formidable defences is an 
extensive moat around the island, twelve feet deep, filled 
with water. The chimney, from which it derives its name, 
is supposed to be on the island, but we have looked in vain 
to discover it. It may be, however, that it has floated down 
the river ; we will speak of it further on. 

In the distance, on the left, are Tick, or Pier islands. 
Some of the finest bass fishing in the river is off this old 
pier. Dr. Melville, of Prescott, the inventor of rheumatic 
victor, and an enthusiastic fisherman of this section, last 
summer caught a black bass weighing seven and one-half 
pounds while enjoying the sport around the pier. 

Three miles from Chimney island in the distance, is what 
is termed " the cut," forming the channel between Galop 
and Moore's islands. It was the former channel of this 
line of boats, but the Dominion government are expending 
six miUions of dollars for the enlargement of the canals of 
this route, and the survey party at present are blasting a 
channel through the 

GALOP RAPID, 

which may be seen in the distance. The reason of the 
change of channel is formed with an edict of the pilots not 



68 

to interfere with the work of the engineer corps engaged on 
this necessary improvement of excavating a fifteen foot 
channel, to allow larger boats to pass, and dispense with 
the use of the Edwardsburg canal. This is the first and 
smallest rapid on the St. Lawrence River, and as the Phat 
Boy has termed it, " a little one for a cent." I will, how- 
ever, give you an idea of what the rapids are. AH the 
rapids on this river are caused by numerous rocks, large and 
small, in the bed of the river, and the swift current of water 
passing over these rocks causes the fearful commotion that 
you observe. Now, to carry our philosophy a little farther, 
we say the larger the rocks and the stronger the current, 
the better the rapids. No rocks, no water, no current, no 
rapids ! This commotion which you see here is caused by 
a ledge of rocks five and one-half feet in height under nine 
feet of water. You can see the swell and white cap which 
this rock occasions, and then use your best judgement to 
determine the height of the rocks in Long Sault, where we 
hope to arrive at one o'clock. (There are, let me state 
here, eight rapids on our trip to-day, which may be divided 
into two classes, first and second. The first class are Long 
Sault, meaning a long leap or jump ; Cedar, deriving its 
name from the trees in the vicinity, and Lachine. The 
second class are Galop, meaning a hopping, jumping rapid ; 
Rapid Piatt, meaning in French, flat ; Chateau du Lac, 
meaning foot of the lake ; Split Rock, derived from a fis- 
sure which make the channel, and the Cascade, from its re- 
semblance to a cascade). 

On the left, before arriving at the Galop rapids, is the 
entrance to the Edwardsburg canal. This canal is seven 
and one-half miles in length, and is the finest canal we ar- 



69 

rive at ; its terminus is at Iroquois. It would be well here 
to say that we only have canals around the rapids, or where 
the current is too strong for a steamer to ascend. We here 
append a tabular statement of the 

ST. LAWRENCE CANALS. 

Edwardsburg canal, y^- miles long, three locks, 14 feet 
fall in the river ; Morrisburg canal, 4 miles long, 2 locks, 
II 1-6 feet fall ; Farron's Point canal, f miles long, i lock, 
4 feet fall ; Cornwall canal, 1 2 miles long, 7 locks, 48 feet 
fall ; Beauharnor's canal, 1 1^ miles long, 9 locks, 84 feet 
fall ; Lachine canal, 9 miles long, 5 locks, 45 feet fall. 

In the distance in front, on the left is the village of Ed- 
wardsburg, now called Cardinal. Here is located the Ed- 
wardsburg starch factory the largest starch factory in the 
Dominion of Canada. The president of the company is 
the Hon. Walter Shanley, of Hoosac Tunnel fame. He 
was the great contractor who completed that wonderful 
piece of work, and is now the manager of the St. Lawrence 
and Ottawa Railroad. 

Twenty minutes from Edwardsburg to the next point of 
interest. 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT ELI PERKINS. 

Some few years ago, Mr. Perkins was a passenger on one 
of the boats. I do not know whether he took me for the 
captain, director or manager of the line or not, but he ex- 
erted himself considerably to form my acquaintance. 
There was nothing unusual about that, however, as there is 



70 

something " distingue " about me, and when on the boat I 
stand considerably '' above proof." I have frequently dined 
at the same table with the Governor-General, Lord Dufferin 
and retinue — after his lordship had left. But to return to 
Eli. The day in question I was upon the deck of the boat 
as usual, describing the points of interest, especially the one 
on the Canadian shore, where the St. Regis Indians come 
year after year to gather the famous elm with which to make 
their celebrated baskets. I was deHneating at some length 
upon the noble red-man, when Eli came to me and said, I 
will write you a verse of poetry about that. Glad to get a 
memento in that shape from so distinguished an individual, 
who had been so often accused of being witty, I said it 
would please me very much. Here is the verse : 

" Once here the noble red man took his delights. 
Fit, fished and bled : 
Now most of the inhabitants are white. 
With nary a red." 

I thanked him very profusely, and on subsequent occa- 
sions took great delight in repeating the lines to the pas- 
sengers — never forgetting for a moment to remind them 
that they were written for me by the alleged American 
humorist. One day, after delivering myself of the poetry 
and repeating to the passengers that it was written by the 
celebrated poet, writer, humorist and lecturer, Eli Perkins, 
I was approached by an exceedingly polite an affable gen- 
tleman, whom I learned was Mr. John H. Rochester, of 
Rochester, N. Y., who asked if he understood me correctly 
in attributing the authorship of the lines quoted to Mr. 
Perkins. I assured him that he had written them expressly 
for me, and produced in Eli's own handwriting the original 
copy. With a subdued smile resting u])on his counten- 



71 

ance, Mr. Rochester informed me that there must be an 
error somewhere, as a gentleman, a Mr. Fletcher, had writ- 
ten a poem in 1834, in which the exact verse occurred, and 
he proceeded to repeat the verse from memory. This took 
me slightly back, and I subsequently came to the conclu- 
sion with " my friend " of the Oil City Derrick, that a cab- 
bage leaf was never more at home than when in the crown 
of " Uli Perkins' hat." After that I had no more use for the 
poem, but determined if ever I met " UH " I should call to 
his mind the circumstances connected with " his little poem." 
I had not long to wait, for one day, while in Evansville, In- 
diana, at the St. George Hotel, I met the gentleman and 
recalled the circumstance connected with the little verse, 
and he, with a perfect air of nonchalance, said that he had 
never given it a thought since — dashed it off in a minute. 
I told him how remarkable it was that great minds often 
run in the same channel and related my experience with 
his gem. He scowled, and turning on his heel said it was 
indeed a singular word for word resemblance, but changed 
the subject at once and asked me to his room on the fol- 
lowing morning, which invitation I cheerfully accepted, 
doting all the evening upon having a nice time, and swop- 
ping a few gags, etc., etc., but my hopes were blighted, for 
the next morning I was informed of his very early departure 
— gone up to He to the people of Rockport, I was told. 
" Uli " is a great man, and contracts a larger amount of 
business upon a very small amount of capital than any pub- 
lic character I know of. When Eli reads this I expect he 
will load his big gun — not intellectual, but otherwise — > 
and come for me. I will therefore give him a pointer in 
advance ; there won't anything scare me but a stomach 
pump. 



72 

Distinguished among Indian names is that of Iroquois. 
Here it names a village, formerly known as Matilda, but 
like all other good ^latildas do, she changed her name to 
Iroquois, in order to preserve the name. The Iroquois In- 
dians formerly owned this section of country. One and 
a half miles below this village is the narrowest point in the 
St. Lawrence River, from Kingston to the gulf This broad 
expanse of water we are just passing, and the one we ar- 
rive at immediately after leaving the point, are very shallow, 
consequently hold the water in check at the point. The 
depth of water in the shallow places being about 22 feet, 
while at the point it is 84 feet. Width of the river 1,140 
feet — 170 feet less than a quarter of a mile. 

On the right in the narrowest portion of the river is Cedar 
point. On the left is a small bluff, formerly called Hem- 
lock point, on account of a fine hemlock standing there, 
but on one fine morning the hemlock, the tree and the 
point all slid into the river, and have not yet returned. 
About fifteen feet back from the point is a rail fence, which 
is outside of the earth works that were thrown up in 181 2-13. 
and batteries were erected on Cedar point. 

On the left is the main shore of the Dominion of Canada 
with a population of over five millions. On the right is the 
main shore of the United States of America with a popu- 
lation of over fifty millions. When the five millions want 
those fifty miUions all they will be obliged to do is to walk 
over and take them. Then will be verified that beautiful 
passage in Holy Writ which says, •' One shall chase a thou- 
sand and two put ten thousand to flight. Sing ! " 

This was really a strong point, and was fortified on both 
sides of the river by the opposing parties. From the fact 



73 

of the successful fortifications by the Americans the Rideau 
canal owes its origin. Guns, and stores or merchandise 
could not be taken up the river. It was conceived by Col- 
onel By, of the Engineer corps, that a new canal would ob- 
viate the difficulty, and all his resources were immediately 
put into requisition and the canal was completed at a cost 
of $5,000,000. It extends from Ottawa, formerly By-town 
to Kingston, and is still in use. 

Ten minutes from here to the next point of interest. On 
the left is the entrance to the Morrisburg canal, the second 
canal in the chain, but is not used by this line of boats. 
All tows and sailing vessels have to use the canal. In the 
distance front is Rapid Piatt ; on the right is Ogden's Is- 
land, the finest wooded island in the St. Lawrence River. 
Beyond is Waddington, St. Lawrence county, N. Y. In 
front is this rapid we have just named ; it is the second one 
and is a '' little one for two cents." It has, however, eight 
feet more descent than the first, but is only a one cent de- 
sceiiter rapid. 

MORRISBURG. 

After passing the point, Morrisburg comes into view on 
the left, the prettiest village in the Dominion of Canada, 
Look at its churches, public buildings, private residences, 
and hotels, (the St. Lawrence Hall is kept by W. H. Mc- 
Gannon and Brother, and I can say cheerfully no better 
hotel in town), which line the banks, for we are still in the 
Province of Ontario. At half-past three o'clock, will enter 
the Province of Quebec. You will have a good chance then 
to compare the difference between the two provinces. 
Your especial attention is called to this now, that you may 



74 

"be prepared to scan the change you will not fail to observe. 
Before reaching Morrisburg is Doran's Island, which was 
rented by ^Ir. Oz. Doran, of the St. Regis Indians, for one 
dollar per year, and they come every year, 60 miles to col- 
lect one dollar. Opposite ]Morrisburg is Dry Island, used 
for picnics, etc. 

One hour from this point to the Long Sault Rapids. We 
speak of this here, for it is about dimmer time, and if you 
are lucky enough to secure a seat at the first table you will 
lose no point of interest, for it is presumable you will finish 
wdthin the hour. 

THE CUISINE ON THE BOAT. 

It would not be amiss here to state that the meals were 
formerly served on the American plan, and to give you but 
a faint idea of the commotion created by the passengers 
when there was one more person on board than seats at the 
table, would require a volume ten times this size to describe. 
Therefore please excuse me if I relate by way of an illus 
tration what an eminent French writer said on the subject : 
*• The waiters, like little poppets, would bob up serenely at 
any time and place, drop a dish or whatever the hand con 
tained, and was as soon out of sight. This continued for 
about one hour, while we were seated back against the cabin 
wall, with just space enough for the waiter to pass between 
us and the table. When the signal was given everybody 
made a rush for the table, and if the scene depicted could 
only be described humorcfusly or otherwise, I would like to 
read it." But the writer said it reminded him of the famous 
picture in her Majesty's gallery. " The Rape of the Sa- 
bines.'' (1 have never seen that picture, but presume it is 



75 

that of a beautiful female poised as a central figure, and 
about ten soldiers ready to embrace her on a given signal.) 
Things have changed, however, and this season the meals 
will be served on the American plan, run by the Company, 
who have secured the best stewards, etc., to superintend the 
service to the end, that everyone maybe pleased. The up- 
per saloon will not be used, but what was formerly known 
as the ladies' cabin will be the dining-room, which gives the 
whole saloon as a promenade and place of repose and rest 
for the passengers. I am positive the change will be ac- 
ceptable. 

About a mile below Morrisburg, on the right, is Goose- 
neck Island, so called from its resemblance to the neck of a 
goose ; the upper end is the neck ; the narrative is about 
nine miles long. Plve miles from Morrisburg to 

CHRYSLERS' FARM, 

memorable for the battle fought on this ground in the year 
1 8 13. The Americans were the attacking party on this oc- 
casion, having arose early in the morning, crossed the river 
into the little bay, landed, and immediately went into the 
contest by attacking the little house. The fight was des- 
perate, lasting until eleven o'clock, when the Americans, 
under General WiUiams, were repulsed with great slaughter. 
The house was completely riddled with bullets. It has since 
been torn down, and the chimney left as a monument to the 
battle. They retreated in good order, re-crossed the river, 
and remained, having abandoned the trip to Montreal, 
which they intended. I draw this mild, because I am one 
of " God's people " myself. 

Next in interest is Farron's point, opposite which is Croyl's 
Island. Six minutes from here to Long Sault Rapids, we 
pass on the left Harrison's landing. 



76 

LONG SAULT ISLAND. 

At this point there are really two channels, the American 
channel being on the right of Long Sault Island, the rapids 
forming the Canadian channel, and are on the left of the 
island. The distinguishing feature about the American 
channel is while it is swift in current, it has no rapids worthy 
of note, and the channel is used for tows, etc., and all the 
rafts naturally prefer this way, because it would be impos- 
sible for them to go down the Long Sault. 

In the distant front observe the hght-house at the head of 
the Cornwall canal, twelve miles in length, that passes 
around the Long Sault Rapids. 

The boats are steered from landmarks on shore ; by that 
small ball you see on the end of the pole, which is the bow- 
sprit. The target that you see in the distance is used by 
the pilot to get his position in Long Sault Rapids. These 
targets will be seen frequently as you progress, and as they 
all answer the same purpose, this reference to them will 
suffice. 

LONG SAULT RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's Landing on the left was formerly a very im- 
portant point on this line, as it was the foot of navigation 
before the canal was completed some forty years ago. Few 
changes have taken place since, that are apparent to the 
eye. The Long Sault is the first one of tlie first-class rapids, 
and the third one in line proceeding down the river, and as 
we set a price on the other two, you can set your own price 
on this one. A description of these rapids has been given 
from time immemorial ; it does not behoove us to give any 
graphic or colored description of this scene, although we 
might do so satisfactorily, having seen depicted on the 



77 

countenances of thousands of passengers who have passed 
this way every thing in nature from the subUme to the ridi- 
culous as well as between the two, and as each individual's 
feelings differ, no one description would do the subject jus- 
tice. One writer said, " it was like sliding down hill on a 
steamboat." Another said he felt as if he was being unglued ! 
A third said he felt as if he had taken a large dose of epecac. 
Still another as if he was on a ship at sea in a storm. 
And yet one more was so exhilerated that he imagined he 
owned Maud S. and would like to spend his days on the 
rapids. Another party who had ridiculed the trip a good 
deal, until the spray began to cover the deck, wetting them 
to the skin, drenching their store clothes, which, when dried, 
revealed awkward misfits, exclaimed that " it was the grand- 
est sight they had ever witnessed." 

I could enlarge upon other descriptions, but prefer to give 
the Phat Boy a privilege to relate a few facts — no " taffy." 
All the boats of this line are built of Bessemer steel or iron, 
with three and one-half inches of elm riveted close to the 
iron on the bottom outside to prevent accidents if we should 
strike against a rock. This precaution was found necessary, 
because the first iron boat that struck a rock became a total 
wreck. With the protection of elm no injury has resulted 
from the occasional striking of the boats against the rocks. 
There is no danger, however, in this rapid, for the water in 
the shallowest place is thirteen and one-half feet, and we 
are drawing about seven feet. During our passage through 
all the rapids, we have four men at the wheel, and four men 
at the tiller aft, who assist the men at the wheel. Any ac- 
cident that should happen to the chain or the wheel, the 
pilot immediately goes to the right hand of the tiller. 



78 

MUTUAL ASSOCIATION 

OIF C.^ISr^^3D.A._ 

$10,000 Held in Trust for the Association by Prov. Government. 



Incorporated C. S. of Canada^ Chap, yi and Ainendinents, 



P resident : 

A. L. De Martigny, Esq., Cashier -lacqiies-Cartier Bank. 

Vice-Presidents : 

Hon. L. R. Church, Q. C, Commissioner of Crown Lands^ 

Quebec, P. Q. 
Benj. Globensky, Esq., Q. C. 

L. H. Massue, ]M. p., President Board of Agriculture for Province 

of Quebec. 
John L. Cassidy, Esq., Wholesale Merchant. 
J. McIntyre, Esq., Merchant. 
M. Babcock, Esq., Manufacturer. 
Dr. AV. W. Ogden, Toronto. 
Arthur Ctagnon, Esq. 
John Hopper, Esq. 
J. J. Guerin, Esq., M. D. 

Hon. Alex. Lacoste, Q. C, M. L. C, - - Legal Adviser. 
Arthur Gagnon, ...---' Treasurer. 

John Hopper, Manager. 

Dr. J. J. Guerin, Medical Director. 



Section 11.— Assenibly Bill 139, passed March 30th. IKSi. " The Provident 
Mutual Association of Canada shall be deemed to be an Association duly 
formed under the said chapter 71 of the Consohdated Statutes of Canada. 

Reser\'e fund to be invested in Dominion Bonds and deposited in trust with 
the Provincial Treasurer. 

GENERAL OFFICE: 

162 St. James St., MONTREAL, P. Q. 

MONTREAL OFFICE: 

No. 4 Barron Block, JOHN HOPPER, Manager. 



79 

The Long Sault rapid is nine miles in length ; three miles 
of boisterous commotion ; six miles of current and sudden^ 
sharp turns. When we first enter the rapid, the steam on- 
board of the boat is slowed down until she gets her position 
in the rapids, as she draws less water than when under full 
head of steam. We are then compelled to put on full steam 
as the boat must go faster than the current in order to ob- 
tain steerage Nvay. Many suppose that no steam is used 
through the rapids, which is an error. If we were to at- 
tempt to go down without any propehing power, we would 
be at the mercy of the current of this stupendous agitation 
called rapids. One couldn't tell which end of the boat 
would be first, and it is presumable that this would be any- 
thing but pleasant to the passenger, for we would go down 
the same as a log, no one could tell which end of the boat 
would be first, anything but pleasure to passengers. 

When we first enter this rapid, the finest view is -obtained 
on the right side of the boat. It is expected, however, that 
the passengers will distribute themselves equally on either 
side to keep the boat in good trim ; the Captain generally 
uses the " Phat Boy " for this purpose ; when he is not on 
board, the passengers are expected to distribute themselves. 
The view, however, soon changes to the left, and when 
nearing the point the swell and white caps run from seven 
to eleven feet in height. 

We have already explained the causes of the rapids. 
Now, will any one please . explain to me what is the height 
of the rocks which create this commotion, and at the same 
time set their price on this rapid. After passing this point 
and the swell and white caps that we have been describing,. 
on the left is the passage to the Canadian channel of this 
river, which forms Earnhardt's island. On the right is the 



8o 
A RECORD WITHOUT A PARALLEL. 



MUTUAL RESERVE FUND LIFE ASSOCIATION, 

BRYANT BUILDING, 
55 LIBERTY STREET, NEW YORK. 



INCORPORATED UXDER THE LAWS OF THE STATE 
OF NEW YORK. 



31,4:2 3 Total Membership Number, May 1st, 1885. 

§S31o,919.63 Amount of Reserve Fund, Mav 1st, 1885, of 
which S250,000.00 is invested in U. S. Bonds. 

3100,000,00 Deiwsited with the Insurance Department of 
the State. 

3200,000,00 Daily Average New Business. 

3420,000.00 Assets, May 1st, 1885. 

31,000,575.00 Losses Paid. 

Si 2Q, 900,000.00 

Total Busiuess written since date of Orsranization. 



THE CENTRAL TRUST COMPANY OF NEW YORK, 

TRUSTEE OF THE RESERVE FUND. 



E. B. H.ARPER, President. 

N. W. BLOSS, 2d Vice President. 

G. F. POTTER, 3d Vic-e President. 
0. K. BISSELL, Treasurer. 

F. T. I;KA>L\X, Secretary. 

J. M. STEVENSON, Asst. Sec. 

.L W. BOW DEN, Med. Director. 
.1011 X HOPPER, Manas^er, Montreal. 



8i 

American channel. This was formerly used by boats 
before they came down the Long Sault, which foi a long 
time was known as the lost channel. This channel having 
been lost for some years, it was discovered by Captain 
Rankin, who received for that service a magnificent silver 
watch, the value of which at the present day would be about 
$6.50. The first steamboat of this line that passed through 
the Long Sault, was the Passport, in 1848, and the pilot 
was W. H. McGanon, who is still in the employ of the com- 
pany. The soundings were made by scows and rafts, with 
poles attached to the sides, of 8 to 15 feet in length, and 
as either of these met an obstruction and became dislodged 
or broken off, the depth of water was ascertained and a 
record made. The propelling power of these scows or 
rafts was oars or large paddles, worked by from 10 to 40 
men on each, as the necessities of each required. 

The steamer Gill was the first boat through the rapids, 
and went down more by accident than otherwise, but it 
demonstrated the certainty of a channel. 

Earnhardt's island on the left, 7^- miles in length by 4J- 
miles in width, belongs to the United States. On the right 
is the main land, St. Lawrence county, N. Y. Both sides 
of the river for the next seven miles belong to the United 
States. The King of Holland, who was the arbitrator of 
the treaty of 18 12, from charts, maps, etc., furnished him, 
supposed that the main channel of the river passed around 
that island on the left. He was mistaken, however ; this is 
the main channel of the river, and the only navigable one ; 
the Canadian channel containing only about 3^ or 4 feet of 
water. 

During the next eight minutes we pass three very sudden 



82 

turns in the river; the first turn is to the right ; then to the 
left ; next to the right again ; the second turn being the 
sharpest on the St. Lawrence river ; at direct angles turning 
to the left. Passengers on the left side of the boat, by 
looking backward, have a fine view of that portion of the 
river we have just passed, and looking forward see where 
we are compelled to go, and more easily note the sharpness 
of the turn. Rafts entering the American channel at the 
foot of the Long Sault rapids will drift nine miles in forty 
minutes, and are often thrown on shore on either side in 
making this sudden turn. After making our next turn to 
the right, by looking in the distance front, between the nar- 
row point, will discover what is known as " The Crab.'* 
The current crosses here from right to left, then left to right, 
and from right to left, forming the letter Z. Rafts get en- 
tangled in this portion of the river, and get easily torn to 
pieces. 

There is a ferryboat plys between this point, on the right 
Macenia point and Cornwall point on the left, touching at 
two places on Earnhardt's island, to convey passengers who 
are desirous of visiting Macenia Springs, six miles distant. 
The steamboat is a side-wheeler, two horses tread the power 
that revolves the wheels ; it is therefore a two-horse power 
boat; they convey the steam on board in a bag well filled 
with oats. The deck hand is the cook; the cook is the 
engineer; the engineer is the mate, and the mate is the cap- 
tain ; one man supreme command ; no mutiny ever occurs, 
unless the mule should kick the deck hand overboard — that 
would be " midity^' would it not ? 

On the left is the entrance to the Canadian channel at 
the end of Earnhardt's island. Two miles below on the 



83 

right is the last of the American shore on the St. Lawrence, 
lat. 45 ° N. Some few years ago I was presented by Messrs. 
W. H. Merril& Co., 88 St. James St., Montreal, one of the 
dry goods firms in the city, with an American flag, fifteen 
feet in length, to designate the last of the United States 
shore on this river. Through the assistance of a friend at 
Cornwall, and thirteen dollars in cash. I succeeded in get- 
ting the flag in position. It remained there for about ten 
days when a party of St. Regis Indians, who occupy a res- 
ervation six miles distant the other side of the island, four 
of them came over to the point, filled themselves full of 
" ice water," climbed up the flag staff and took down the 
flag. They cut it up into three or four suits of clothes, and 
went around this vicinity for about a week as full as a boiled 
oyster, singing " Hail Columbia, right side up," rolled up 
in the stars and stripes, full of fire-water. It was said to 
be the happiest moment of their lives, and I have no reason 
to doubt it. 

That portion of the river on the right is the dividing line 
for five miles. Afterwards an iron fence or posts, set at 
equal distance apart, mark the boundary line. The river 
passing around that way forms Cornwall island, about six 
miles wide. Rafts enter this portion of the river where the 
Racket river empties in, and are here refitted preparatory to 
being towed through the lake. Both sides of the river from 
this point downward, belong to the Dominion. 

In the distance, on the left, is Cornwall, a village of 5,000 
people, with the largest cotton and woolen mills in the 
Dominion. Since the protective tariff was inaugurated by 
the Dominion Parliament these industries have thrived won- 
derfully, and the town is correspondingly prosperous. Just 



84 

before landing, a fine view is obtained of both the old and 
new Cornwall canals. Looking at the old canal lock, and 
learning its dimensions, it is obvious why the steamers are 
their present size and no longer. These steamers are the 
limit which the locks will admit, hence if they were five feet 
longer, or a trifle wider, they would be compelled to remain 
at Montreal, not being able to work through the locks. The 
new canal, which is alongside of the old one, will have locks 
IOC feet longer than the present one in use, consequently 
much larger boats will be able to ply the river. The old 
canal was considered amply large when built ; it was not 
supposed that the travel on the St. Lawrence would ever 
reach its present and constantly increasing numbers. 

After leaving Cornwall, on the right, is Cornwall island, 
6 miles wide. Just beyond the island, on the right bank of 
the river, is St. Regis, an old Indian village, which cannot 
be seen from the deck of the steamer. But there is just 
one point where the church roof can be observed for a mo- 
ment or so. There is, however, a tradition worth relating 
here : The bell hanging in this church is associated 
with a deed of genuine Indian revenge. On its way from 
France it was captured by an English cruiser, and taken 
into Salem, Massachusetts, where it was sold to the church 
at Deerfield, in the same State. The Indians, hearing of 
the destination of their bell, set out for Deerfield, attacked 
the town killed forty-seven of the inhabitants, and took 
112 captives, among whom was the pastor and his family. 
The bell was then taken down, and conveyed to St. Regis, 
where it now hangs. 

During the next lo miles of our trip, the river is beauti- 
fully studded with islands, and resembles the Thousand 



85 

Islands scenery very much. Many of these islands are in- 
habited ; some of them elegantly laid out with drives, etc. 
Rev Mr. Dickinson's, called after himself, has a dock, at 
which steamers of this size can land ; it has a hotel, num- 
ber of cottages, and is quite a gay place in Summer. On 
the left is Summers Town, beyond which is Hamilton's 
island. Just before reaching Summers Town is the resi- 
dence of Captain Cameron, of the Cultivature of this Hne ; 
beyond is the magnificent villa of Hon. Caribou Cameron, 
the finest on the St. Lawrence. It is built of Ohio free- 
stone, and cost $80,000. Hamilton island, on the left, is 
occupied every summer by camping parties who come from 
great distances, even from Virginia and Ohio, and remain 
two, three, and even four months. Day after day, one of 
their principal amusements is rowing oat in their small 
boats, awaiting the arrival of the steamers, and then 
swiftly riding on top of the swell that is occasioned by the 
wheels of the steamer. The scene is exciting and pictur- 
esque. On the right, we have now a fine view of the 
Adirondack Mountains of Northern New York, and beyond 
the Green Mountains of Vermont, except it be a smoky or 
misty day, when the view is sHghtly obscured. It is 56 
miles from the river to the mountains, and intervening is 
the wilderness of the State of New York, known as the John 
Brown tract, more famous as the hunting ground of adven- 
turous gunning and fishing parties. 

Continuing our course we pass three small islands, and 
enter Lake St. Francis, 28 miles in length — a very pictur- 
esque sheet of water indeed, but the trip through the lake 
is quite monotonous, therefore for the next two hours the 
guide, as well as the passengers, can " take a rest." This 



86 

being a favorite route for honeymoon parties, there is now 
two fuU hours for these couples to enjoy the "honey" or 
the " moon " as seemeth to them best. After making this 
announcement one day, 53 left the deck, one, however, was 
an old bachelor, who went to curl his hair. 

BOYS ON A STEAMER. 

Here is a genuine. His parents are with him ; he can- 
not keep still ; he wants chiefly to break his neck or fall 
overboard, or to get crushed by the walking beam ; he has 
been twice dragged from the steps leading to the walking- 
beam, used by the assistant engineer for lubricating pur- 
poses ; he would hke to get in the paddle boxes, has talked 
every ofiicer on board to death, and is now trying his best 
to worry the deck hands. How curiously constructed is a 
real boy, to go whether he should not, and especiaily where 
his anxious mother most fears he will go ; he is now doing 
his best to spoil his parents trip. We can leave him for a 
moment ; he won't flag in his endeavor to get into trouble 
or to make his parents miserable. 

This is a smaller boy — not yet out of his petticoats, but 
very active ; he, too, has with him an anxious mother ; he 
has found another boy— a strange boy, of the same size 
and sex ; they have become acquainted ; the strange boy is 
allowed by his parents to roam about the boat at will; he 
invites the nice little boy to roam also ; he wants him to 
roam as near the walking beam as possible ; he has roamed 
there himself before and escaped ;he tells the nice little boy 
how cunning it is to come near being crushed ; the nice 
little boy's mother forbids any roaming at all ; she looks 
with disfavor on the strange boy ; but the strange boy con- 



87 

tinues to hang around ; he knows, so does the nice boy, 
together they can fool any one mother ; united they stand, 
divided they fall ; now the nice boy edges away from the 
side of his mother, for her energies are momentarily concen* 
trated on the set of her bonnet and the nice looking gentle- 
man at the other end of the saloon, who is taking side 
glances at her through the mirror. Now the nice boy gets 
farther away ; they are on the forbidden part of the deck, 
near the walking beam. It is great fun. Now the cross 
man, who keeps order on the deck, drives them away. 
They go to the newsboy and help themselves to anything on 
his table when he is not looking. They are now running in 
and out of the staterooms, in everybody's way ; it is a won- 
der they haven't been killed twenty times. It is great fun 
for the boys, but almost death to the passengers. And the 
mother is still so occupied with her bonnet, and the dude 
who has made a mash or favorable impression upon her, 
that she has not missed her nice little boy. 

In the centre of the lake, on the left, is the village of 
Lancaster, an old Scotch settlement. Just before reaching 
the village, what appears to be a stack of hay, but what is 
commonly known throughout Scotland as a Cairn. It is 
no more or less than a heap of stones in a rounded or coni- 
cal form, placed in that way to commemorate some especial 
historic event. This one was built by the Glengarry High- 
landers, in 1847, to perpetuate the memory of Sir John Col- 
burn, who was Commander-in-Chief of the Army and Gov- 
ernor-General of the Province. It was built by putting 
cobble-stones one on top of the other — each individual in- 
habitant or stranger passing that way adding a stone. See 
Queen Victoria's Book, where she describes helping to build 



88 

a Scotch Cairn with the assistance of John Brown, and one 
will get a better idea of how to build a Cairn, this was done 
by placing stones one upon the other until it reached the 
height of 20 feet. They are placed in a conical form, and 
reaches the height of 20 feet. The county in which this 
place is located is named Glengarry,and is mainly or almost 
wholly inhabited by the sturdy Scotch highlanders, whose 
farms are the finest in the Dominion. This is the last 
EngHsh speaking village on the route. 

Passing three lighthouses, showing that the channel across 
the lake is quite intricate, we leave St. Anisette on the 
right, a small French town. We are now approaching the 
boundary line between the provinces of Ontario and Que- 
bec. The lighthouses on either side show the geographical 
divisions. From the lighthouse on the left, the line runs 
straight to the Ottawa river ; then the Ottawa becomes the 
dividing Hne. Just before arriving at the foot of the lake, 
where the river re-forms, we pass San Zotique ; next Coteau 
landing, where we call for the purpose of takmg on a pilot. 

EDWARD WILLETT, 

whose duty it is to pilot this line of boats through the next 
series of rapids. We are coming to four rapids. First, the 
Coteau ; second, Cedar : third. Split Rock, and fourth, the 
Cascades. On the extreme right, at the foot of the lake, is 
the village of Valley Field. It is at the head of the Beau- 
hornias canal, 1 1^ miles in length, which passes around this 
series of rapids. The river is 11^ miles, has a fall of 84 
feet. The finest water-power privilege on the continent of 
America, except Niagara, is at this point. The largest cot- 
ton mill in the Dominion, the Canada Paper Co.'s mill, and 



89 

several other manufacturing establishments are located at 
Valley Field. After leaving St. Francis Lake, we re-enter 
the river. With our pilot we go down the small rapid known 
as the Coteau, passing Prisoner's island on the left, and on 
the left bank is the old French village of Coteau du Lac. 
On the extreme left at the point is an old French fort, where 
battles were fought in 1812 and 18 13; the earthworks are 
still in" a good state of preservation, behind which is the old 
saw-mill. Twenty minutes (or five miles) from this point 
to the Cedar rapids, then you will see der Rapid that is a 
Rapid, the most Rapid Rapid of all the Rapids, opposite 
the rapid is the village of Cedar on the left and St. Timothy 
on the right, the Cedar rapid is the finest upon the St. Law- 
rence River. Look at St. Timothy, bear in mind the view 
you had of Morrisburg ; the impression of its beauty and 
thrift, and now you have the compariso». How does the 
former strike you as against the latter ? It is a historic fact, 
and worthy of note, that no matter what town you arrive at 
in the province of Quebec, this will be apparent to the eye ; 
the finest buildings in the place will be the church, nunnery, 
school, hospital or priest's residence. Aside from these, the 
rest are all about alike. You cannot tell the palace resi- 
dence from the blacksmith's shop, or the grocery store from 
the hotel. The church at St. Timothy has a seating ca- 
pacity of 1,500; the population of the village is 600; the 
church is always full on Sundays, and as Mark Twain ex- 
claimed, " What large domes these worshippers must have 
to their pantaloons for 600 to fill a place capable of seating 
1,500." But they come from all the country around, being 
all of one persuasion. An opposition church is so far un- 
konwn in these rural parts, hence it may be inferred what 



90 

the extraordinary power of this old church must be in the 
lower province. 

Speaking to one of the priests one day regarding the 
amount of money collected by them from the poor to build 
and maintain their institutions, I asked him how it was, and 
he remarked that the millions have more money than the 
millionaires, and by getting the dollar from the poorer classes 
they had the million, which the milhonaires never give up. 

Just before arriving at St. Timothy, we enter the Cedar 
rapid, and pass a distance of three and one-half miles in the 
extraordinary short time of seven minutes. By casting your 
eye shoreward, while passing an island on the left, and just 
before we enter the heaviest part of the rapid, you will dis- 
cover how fast the boat is going. Looking to the right, you 
will see Hell's hole, and the greatest commotion in the river 
from Kingston to the Gulf. 

Leaving Cedar rapid which is the most picturesque and 
beautiful (in our estimation) of all, two and one-half miles 
further along, and passing Bockey Hayes' shoal, which is a 
peculiar formation in the bed of the river, making naviga- 
tion somewhat dangerous. In illustration : one day the 
steamer Corsican suddenly lurched to the left, and evidently 
struck a rock, whereupon the captain said to the pilot, 
^' Edward, you are a little too far over to the left." Before 
lie could complete the sentence, the boat lurched to the 
right and struck another rock ; then the pilot replied, "yes, 
and a Httle too far over to the right side." It is plain that 
the channel about here is at least precarious. The govern- 
ment engineers, however, are now at work removing these 
dangerous obstructions. The Napoleon hats you see in the 
ilistance, on poles about ten feet high, are the marks which 



91 

enable the pilot to obtain his true bearings through the 
shoal. Turning to the right we come in sight of the Split 
Rock rapid, the most dangerous rapid of all. When we 
speak of danger, we don't mean to Hfe or limb, as no per- 
son was ever injured on this rapid; it is danger to property 
that we refer to, as this is the only one of the series that has 
cost the company one dollar. They lost one steamboat 
here, and have had others upon the rocks. On the 8th of 
July, 1874, the steamer Corinthian, of the R. O. N. Co., 
when passing the Split Rock rapid, was almost instantly en- 
veloped by a terrific thunder shower, accompanied by a hur- 
ricane. The wind was so powerful that the boat refused to 
answer the helm, and instead of turning to the right, as she 
should, the wind caused her to go straight ahead, and we 
struck a rock forward about five feet high and passed fifteen 
feet aft of the wheel over the same, and then stopped. I 
was upon the right hand side of the boat explaining to the 
passengers and showing or pointing out to them the ledge 
of rock when she struck. Immediately four ladies caught 
hold of me (whom they thought was the boss life preserver). 
What a position tor a nice young man. I was about to ex- 
claim as my friend A. Ward did when he was surrounded 
by 20 of Brigham Young's wives, " I hope your intentions 
are honorable." However, through the assistance of some 
friends, I procured life preservers for them and was released 
from my somewhat precarious position. ' In the space of an 
hour most of the passengers were landed by the aid of the 
ship's boats and batteaus from the shore, and proceeded by 
rail to Montreal, where they arrived the same evening. I 
remained on board all night until a derrick was erected 
and two of the boats lashed together, and a platform built 
upon them, when I was let down by the aid of the derrick 



92 

upon the same, and without further trouble taken to shore 
in safety. The second Hne of white-caps which you see in the 
distance in front, is the SpHt Rock, a ledge of rock running 
from shore to shore, with the exception of a break of about 
sixty feet, which is a natural split in the rock. Formerly 
there was only a depth of nine feet of water ; it was blasted 
out, and now gives a navigable channel of thirteen and one- 
half feet. Passengers, by looking into the water on the 
right side of the boat, can see the ledge we have been talk- 
ing about. 

One and a half miles from here to the Cascade, the last 
of this series of four, and the last but one on the river — 
the Lachine being the last. The Cascade differs from all 
the rest, being a cutting, chopping sea, in which the boats 
are wrenched more than in any other rapid. On the right 
is the village of ^Melocheville, at the foot of the Beauhor- 
nois canal, eleven and one-half miles in length, that passes 
around this line of rapids. The boats of this and all other 
lines are compelled to pass through this canal, as none of 
them could ascend this Hne of rapids. 

We are now thirty miles by water and twenty-four miles 
by land from Montreal. In the distance, in front is Mount 
Royal, or Montreal mountain The park mountain drive, 
the most famous drive in the world, is up the brow of this 
mountain through a park. On the left is II Perot Island, 
formed by the two channels of the Ottawa. The one we 
now see comes by St. Anns, where Moore wrote his famous 
Canadian boat song. A resident of St. Anns, Lieutenant- 
Colonel Dowker, says, that every spring the freshets of the 
Ottawa cause the water to comedown into the St. Lawrence 
with such force as to cause an eddy to pass up the point of 



93 

the island and pass down the navigable channel of the Ot- 
tawa, and he can take a pail from his house, Chateau 
Blanc (where the famous poet Moore resided, while at St. 
Anns, and wrote his Canadian poems), proceed down to the 
river and dip up a pail of pure clear St, Lawrence water. 
Meeting Col. Dowker this spring, he told me that the fresh- 
ets of the Ottawa in March and April, 1885, were the most 
alarming and disastrous ever known. The sudden break- 
ing up of the ice caused a jam. Houses were moved from 
their foundation, cattle and sheep crushed to jelly by the 
ice and many drowned ; the ice piled mountains high. The 
government has an agent in the vicinity relieving the dis- 
tressed inhabitants. The oldest church in the upper pro- 
vince and old forts are to be seen here. 

On the left a portion of the Ottawa empties into the St. 
Lawrence. This is not, however, the main channel; the 
navigable portion of the river is just the other side of II 
Perot. Note the difference between the color of the two 
waters; they are as wide apart as green is from purple. 
The water of the Ottawa is of a dark brown color, caused 
by passing over low, marshy peat bed soils, and the huge 
forests through which this river passes, the leaves falling and 
rotting, and swept along by the freshets doubtless dye the 
water to the peculiar color observable. The waters of the 
two rivers do not readily mix, and each are distinct for many 
miles. 

In the distance is Lake St. Louis or Lachine Lake, 15 
miles from the rapids to the foot of the lake, where we 
arrive at Lachine on the left, and Caughnawaga on the 
right. The latter is the residence of the Indian pilot, St. 
Jean Baptiste, who takes this line of boats down the La- 
chine rapids. 



94 

About half way through the lake on the right we come to 
Nun's island. That mound or elevation of ground which 
you see, was a fort in 1812, and English and American 
war-like parties met in sanguinary contest around here. It 
commands the entrance to the Chateaugay River. 1 he vil- 
lage of Chateaugay is about 6 miles back. The Nun's 
island belongs to the Grey nuns, of Montreal, who have a 
hospital for their own sick, and the spot is marked by a 
large cross emblematic of their order. 

Fifteen minutes from here we are in sight of Caughna- 
waga where we take on board the Indian pilot, who has be- 
come of historical interest to tourists, as it was he who dis- 
covered the channel and took the first of this line down 
August 19, 1840, and has been in the employ of the com- 
pany ever since. He is 70 years old, weighs 240 pounds 
and stands 6 feet high. Many of the passengers imagine 
he is the only pilot who can take a boat through the La- 
chine rapids. This is not correct, for we have other pilots 
who can, but as he is paid for this especial service, they re- 
sign most cheerfully in his favor. He has never had an ac- 
cident, and the company believe in holding to that which is 
good, and therefore, " stick to the old man." He will 
emerge from shore in a small boat, accompanied by his two 
sons. They row him to the steamers, he comes on board, 
and the boys row home again. He remains on board till 
the next morning, take the first train for Lachine, where 
he is met by the boys, who take him home in the row-boat. 
The Indian pilot's name is St. Jean Baptiste De Lisle ; his 
Indian name, Ta-ya-ka, meaning in the U. S. language that 
"he will cross the river," but does not ; he goes down the 
rapids. He has a family of six children, three boys and 



95 

three girls. The girls are unmarried. I state this for the 
benefit of the young men on board, as the Indian pilot says 
he wants a " heap Yankee " for his girls. I am engaged to> 
my Mary Jane and they can't have me. 

Here the Indian pilot comes on board, a description of 
Caughnawaga would not be amiss. Note the line of pala- 
tial residences along the bank beyond the church, the win- 
dows and doors kicked out to give them light and air. The 
palace gardens in the front part of the back end of the house. 
The laundry of Caughnawaga is usually hung on the fence ;. 
it is not wash day to-day as you can perceive. The bath- 
house is the whole water-front, but it is seldom used. The 
water-works is that barrel on the shore. That fair damsel,, 
waving her lily white hand, is Mary Jane, my best girl. She 
comes out every day to welcome me, as she thinks I am on 
board. You can get her eye and have a flirtation, the same 
as I have had for years, and not make me jealous. That 
large brick structure is the centennial building, built during 
the centennial year by the celebrated Indian Chief, White 
Kicker. I think they use him to kick the windows and 
doors out of the palatial residences previously spoken of. 

Caughnawaga, signifying " Praying Indian " (my friend 
Ben Butler says, they spell it with an e), is well laid out for 
an Indian village, with a population of 900, all Indians ; no 
whites can live here. 

The finest crops raised in this section of the country are 
raised just below Caughnawaga. They raise them with a 
derrick. It is a blasted crop, however, and of no use until 
it is. This notable quarry is where most of the stone comes 
from for the construction of the locks in the new Lachine 
canal. The entrance of which is at Lachine, the village 
just past at the foot of the lake on the left. 



96 

THE VILLAGE OF LACHINE, 

is a favorite resort for ]\Iontrealers in summer. The in- 
habitants nmiiber about 2,000, but it is frequently augment- 
ed in the season to 9,000 or 10,000. Note the large build- 
ings, which are the church, Villa de Mc^ria Convent, the 
School and University for the education of priests. 

Our Indian pilot being on board, he will now show his 
Injin-uity in piloting a boat down the St. Lawrence. We 
re-enter the river, and in a few minutes enter the 
Lachine rapids. Before reaching the rapids, the tourist 
can see the aqueduct that supplies the city of Montreal with 
water. 

THE LACHINE RAPIDS 

differ from all the rest, it is simply an intricate channel 
through rock. Take your position upon either side of the 
boat and you will know when we come to the most im- 
portant point, as the boat will be pointed direct for a little 
island, which is nothing more nor less than few loads of 
dirt upon a huge ledge of rock. Keep your eye upon the 
bow of the boat and you will be led to exclaim, why are we 
going to strike the island, and if you are a betting person or 
a truthful one you would almost swear we could not help 
but strike, but when within less than ten feet we make a 
very sudden turn to the right, with a grand picth or lurch in 
which you will think the boat drops ten feet. We pass 
alongside of a ledge of rocks for about half a mile, to see 
which you must be upon the right hand side of the boat ; 
at the end of this ledge of rock we have a perfect minature 
Niagara ; a little water-fall for a cent. Do not allow the 



97 

lurching of the boat from side to side, to cause 
you any uneasiness as there is no danger, because 
a side-wheel boat has guards on the sides from four to ten 
feet, projecting over on each side from the hull, 60 or 90 
feet long, so that when that flat surface strikes the water by 
lurching that is as far as she can go, therefore, will always 
righten herself immediately. I have had a great deal of 
sport in this way, when the boat had lurched over as far as 
she could, I would immediately exclaim : '' Oh ! I am on 
the wrong side," and proceed to the high side, when the 
boat would immediately righten up and all the passengers 
would think I did it, but she would have rightened without 
my aid. This is the last rapid built on the St. Lawrence, 
you can have it the best one if you Hke and I will not 
quarrel with you for it, all I ask you to do is to stop at the 
hotels who advertise in my book and tell them I was the 
cause, and if they do not treat you well, I will proceed to 
sit down upon them, and they will never have occasion to 
treat anyone else badly. Passing the foot of the rapids a 
first view of Montreal on the left, and on the right is the 
village of La Prairie. The first mountain on the left is 
Mount Bruno ; second, Belleisle ; the third, St. Pie. The 
next, and last sensation on the trip is passing under 

VICTORIA BRIDGE,_ 

the largest and longest tubular bridge in the world, was 
built by Mr. Stepenson, in i860, for the Grand Trunk Rail- 
road, by which it is owned and controlled. It is a mile and 
three-quarters of iron, two miles and a quarter with its ap- 
proaches from shore. It is wholly of iron, top, bottom and 
sides — an iron tunnel, or box, as it were. There are twenty- 



98 

FAMOUS FOR ONE-THIRD OF A CENTURY 



THE ST. LAMEiCE HALL, 

NIONTREAL. 

Is SO arranged that rooms used for guests are onlv one flight above 
the GRAND OLD PARLORS, which are just one flight of stairs 
from St. James street. This item of rooms bek)W the cknids, with 
plenty of light and air, is worthy of attention. 

THE ST. LAWRENCE HALL 

Occupies a frontage on St. James street 180 feet, on vSt. Francois 
Xavier street 146 feet, on Craig street 180 feet, and on St. George 
street 110 feet, in the verv heart of the citv. opposite the new Post 
Oflice. Thus 

From $2 to $5 is Saved from Hack Hire Alone. 

The only first-class hotel located within one mile of the post office 
and all the public buildings. Its table nneqiialled by any in the Do- 
minion. Satisfaction guaranteed to every patron. No ostentations 
display, but all the solid comforts of a home. 

Only one block from the French Cathedral. Two 

blocks from Tictoria Square. Only two 

blocks from the Theatre Royal. Within 

Two blocks of all the Business 

and Dry Goods Palaces. 

The nearest first-class hotel to the depots and steam boat landings. 
Every place worthy of note to the tourist is within fifteen minutes 
walk'of the St. Lawrence Hall, except those you see in your Park 
Mountain Drive. Tiiis hotel was the home of all royal and notable 
personages who visited Montreal for thirty years. It lias all the mod- 
ern improvements, Elevator, Gas and Electric Lights, Hot and Cold 
Water, p]lectric Bells. Rooms En-Suite, with Bath and Chx'^ets on 
every floor. Spacious, clean and well ventilated rooms. The best 
beds of any hotel in the city. The prices are graduate*!. All under 
the i>ersonal supervision of 

MR. HENRY HOGAN. 



99 

four abutments, built wedge shaped (to crush the immense 
ice fields that pass through this section, which, previous to 
the building of the bridge, did immense damage to Mon- 
treal during the spring freshets. There is no such thing as 
freshets on the St. Lawrence, the Ottawa flowing in some 
Iniles above, causing such disasters) upon which rest the sec- 
tions of iron. These spans are from 250 to 360 feet long each, 
and the centre span is about 60 feet high. The bridge 
tubes are 16x22 feet. It contains no wagon road or foot- 
path, and is used by the G. T. R. and its connecting hues. 
The cost of this immense work was $6,250,000, about one- 
half of which amount went to fatten the contractors. I was 
not one of them. I mention this on account of my size, 
and for fear some one would think I was wealthy. The 
bridge is constructed of sheets of iron with a two-inch edge 
turned up and rivited to each other. It is fastened to the 
centre, loose on both ends on rollers, and is provided with 
a sliding track, so that there is no danger by expansion or 
contraction to passing trains. It expands and contracts from 
three and one-half to seven inches. The bridge is kept in 
thorough repair and well painted. The small holes, or per- 
forations, in the sides of the bridge were origmally intended 
to convey the smoke out, but found inadequate for that pur- 
pose, they caused to be erected last spring a line of flues 
the whole length. Now if any smoke remains, it is carried 
out in a hand basket. The two movable scaffolds you see 
are used by the workmen in repairing and painting. It is 
not a draw bridge, and as we pass under the center span, 
and not over it, you need not remove your hat if you remain 
on the deck. After passing under the bridge you will have 
a magnificent view of 



MONTREAL HARBOR. 

The points of interest in the harbor will all be described 
to you as we pass over St. Lambert's shoal, a very danger- 
ous passage, previous to landing at the Quebec boat where 
we transfer such passengers as desire to visit Quebec. The 
island you see front on the right, is St. Helen's Isle, used 
by the citizens of Montreal for pleasure, picnic parties, etc. 
A ferry plys between the city and island every half hour, 
from morning until 7 p. m. On Sunday ftom 3,000 to 20,- 
000 persons visit the island, mostly French Canadians, 
three-fifths of whom comprises the population of Montreal. 
In the distant front on the left is the oldest church in Mon- 
treal ; to the left of that, the largest building with the dome, 
is the Bonseccour Market and old City Hall. The new 
City Hall is that large building in the rear with the dome in 
the centre and four columns one in each corner. Across 
the road to the left, that long building is the Court House. 
At the head of Jacques Cartier Square is a magnificent col- 
umn erected to the memory af Lord Nelson. At the foot 
of the square lies a steamer of the Richelieu and Ontario 
Navigation Company. There are two steamers on this line, 
notably, the Mo?it7-eal and Quebec. This company own 
twenty-one side wheel boats. The Quebec fine has the 
largest boats that float the St. Lawrence River ; they will 
compare favorably with the boats of the Sound or the Hud- 
son River — triple-decked palace boats, built of Bessemer 
steel ; one has a capacity of 360 state rooms — the other 
280. The distance to Quebec is 180 miles, and the fare on 
this line is only $2.50 — the cheapest on the continent. Be- 
yond, on the left, the two massive towers you see belong to- 
the French church of Notre Dame. It is not a Cathedral, 



but simply a parish church. (The Cathedral is on Domin- 
ion Square, in process of erection, and when complete, will 
be one half the size of St. Peters at Rome). It is the larg- 
est on the continent, and has contained within its walls front 
porch and stairways, on the 24th of June last (St. John's 
day), twenty-two thousand souls. Beyond is the Custom 
House, with the clock in the tower, and still further up the 
examining warehouse of the Custom House, as well as the 
office, docks and steamers of the Allen line. The first stop 
is at Quebec boat ; passengers for Montreal remain on 
■deck, as" this Hne is compelled to enter the first lock in the 
Lachine canal ; the gates close and the water is allowed to 
enter, which raises the boat to the level of the lock when 
the passengers are allowed to depart. Montreal is the 
commercial metropoHs of the Dominion, with a population 
of 150,000, three-fifths of which are French Canadians. 
The docks, piers, wharfs, etc , of Montreal are the finest on 
the continent. It is the second city of commercial import- 
ance — New York being first. Six steamship companies 
leave here weekly for Europe during the summer season and 
a large amount of business must of a necessity be done, as 
its channel is closed during five months of the winter. The 
water front is all lighted with the electric light, so that work 
is carried on during the summer months night and day. 
Having selected your hotel and arrived at the same, our 
next duty will be to see the sights of 

MONTREAL. 

It is situated at the head of navigation for ocean vessels, 
540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the Island of 
Montreal, which lies between the two great rivers of the 



I02 



Delaware & Hudson C, Co's 



-SlJL.XlL,TtOJ^lD. 



SARATOGA LINE. 

Twenty-Eight Miles the Shortest Route between 
Montreal and New York. 



The Only Line to Saratoga, Lake George, and 
Lake Champiain. 



The Most Direct Route to Troy, Albany, New 

York, Philadelphia, and All Points 

South and East. 



Passengers 1)y this Route, during the Siuumer Season, may exchange 
their tickets for those reading '•Through I^ake ('liaiiiplalii nnd 
Liako Georjre, via the Champiain Transportation Coinpaiiy's Steam- 
ers," affording them an opportunity of viewing some of the Finest 
SceiK'ry in America. 



Wagner's Elegant Drawing Room and Sleeping Cars Run via 
This Route. 



The Through Mail and Express for New York carried over this Line. Dur- 
ing the Season of Navigation, close connection made at Troy and Albany, 
with day and night boats on the Hudson River for New York. 

Information given and Tickets sold at the Grand Trunk Ticket Offices, and 
at the Company's (Office. 

1 43 St. James Street, Montreal. 
J. W. BURDICK, CHARLES C. McFALL, 

General Passenger Agent, Albany. Agent, Montreal. 



I03 

North, the St. Lawrence and the Ottawa. The island is 
about thirty-two miles in length, and at its widest some ten 
in breadth ; it is so fertile as to be called the garden of the 
Province. The surface of the land is level with the ex- 
ception of the eminence of Mount Royal, which rises 550 
feet above the river level. Mount Royal gives the name 
to the city which lies at its base. The settlement of the 
town was originally determined by the first explorer, Jacques 
Cartier, in 1535, at which time an Indian village, Hoche- 
laga, occupied the spot. The permanent founding of the 
place, however, did not occur until L642, and in one hundred 
years of growth thereafter it gathered a population of 4,000. 
It was under French rule until 1760, when it passed into 
the hands of the British. In 1832 the cholera raged in 
Montreal with great violence, carrying off 1,843 inhabitants 
in a population of but 30,000. In April, 1849, a pofitical 
mob burnt the Parliament buildings, which were erected on 
McGill street, and the seat of Government was, in conse- 
quence, transferred to Quebec, thence to Toronto, and 
finally to Ottawa, where it remains. In July, 1852, a de- 
structive fire laid waste a large portion of the city, burning 
no houses, and consuming property valued at $1,400,000. 
Notwithstanding these reverses the city recovered, and to- 
day numbers a population of 150,000. Years of industry 
and enterprise have produced growth and improvement in 
Montreal, such as but few American cities can boast of, 
and perhaps but one — Chicago — has exceeded. At the 
beginning of the present century vessels of more than 300 
tons could not ascend to Montreal, and its foreign trade 
was carried on by brigs and barges. Now ocean steam- 
ships of over 4,000 tons, the floating palaces of the Riche- 



I04 

lieu and Ontario Navigation Company, and ships of from 
700 to 4,000 tons from all parts of the world, occupy the 
wharves of the harbor, which are not equaled on this con- 
tinent in point of substantial construction, convenience 
and cleanliness. The old part of Montreal, near the river, 
has narrow, incommodious streets ; but the new growth of 
the city toward Mount Royal has been Hberally laid out, 
with wide and cheerful thoroughfares. The architecture 
here is very fine ; the material chiefly used is a zinc-colored ■ 
lime-stone, extensively quarried three miles from the city. 
The pubHc buildings, banks, and principal warehouses are 
solid and handsome enough to adorn a European capital. 
The great wealth of the Roman Cathohc Church has ena- 
bled it to erect many magnificent churches, hospitals and 
convents, always in a very massive and enduring style. 
Other denominations seem to have been excited by emula- 
tion, and vie with each other in the beauty and elegance of 
their places of worship. Among the evidences of the 
French origin of the city are to be noticed a few curious 
old buildings to be found Hngering here and there about 
Jacques Cartier Square, or occupying sites on the eastern 
part of the river front. These old houses are built some- 
what Hke fortifications, and have heavily vaulted cellars, 
wherein treasure might be stored or a defence made against 
hostile foes, in the days when Indians and Whites, French 
and British were fighting and plundering each other. The 
French Canadians in the city, continue still to be a little 
more than half the population, and, although their language 
here has not been unaftected by the constant intercourse 
with English-speaking people, it is not, as commonly sup- 
posed, a patois, but such French as was spoken by the 



I05 

polite and educated in France, when the emigrants who 
iirst settled Canada, left the shore of their mother-land. 
The naming of many of the streets of Montreal after 
saints and holy things reminds one that its founders were 
not exiles nor adventurers but enthusiastic missionaries. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

The Post Office is built on St. James street, the chief 
thoroughfare of this city, opposite the new St. Lawrence 
Hall. The reason I use the word new may be asked. 
Well, the hotel has been newly re-fitted, the corner building 
purchased, one hundred elegant and commodious rooms 
added, with baths and closets, electric bells and elevators, 
etc., etc. The old proprietor, Mr. Henry Hogan, pro- 
nounced by connoisseurs to be the best landlord in the 
Dominion, has assumed the proprietorship and has associ- 
ated with him as manager, Mr. Samuel Montgomery, the 
best choice that could be made^ as he is an American from 
the Pacific slope, where they know how to keep a hotel. 
I therefore cheerfully recommend you to stop at the new 
St. Lawrence Hall during your stay in Montreal. Start- 
ing from there, it being the centre, every point of interest 
is within fifteen minutes' walk of this hotel. The first 
building to the left is the new Post Office, recently finished, 
with a richly decorated exterior, and every internal improve- 
ment which modern ingenuity has devised. Adjoining it 
is the Bank of Montreal, in the Corinthian style of architec- 
ture, with a sculpture on the pediment depicting native 
Indians, a sailor and settler with the emblems of the arts 
and trade. The corporation occupying this noble building 
is the richest one of the kind in America. It has branches 



io6 

in every town of importance in the Dominion, and has offi- 
ces in New York, Chicago and London. It issues letters of 
credit on all parts of the world. Its capital and reserve fund 
amount to $18,000,000. Adjoining the Bank of Montreal 
is the Canada Pacific Railroad office, a simple soHd struc- 
ture in the Doric style. Crossing the street a Httle above the 
corner on the right hand side is S8 St. James street, where 
W. H. Merrill & Co., have opened a new store for the sale 
of silks, velvets, laces, gloves, silk underwear and hoisery, 
they were formerly on Notre Dame street, but are now es- 
tablished at 88 St. James street, where they would be glad 
to meet their old customers and as many new ones. Other 
banks having their offices on Place d'Arms are the Jacques 
Cartier, Ontario, Quebec and National Banks. On the 
south side of the square the great parish church of Notre 
Dame looms up. The dimensions of this vast Norman 
edifice are 225 feet in length, and is 134 feet in width. Its 
towers are 220 feet high ; the western one contains the larg- 
est bell in America, " Gros Bourdon," in weight 29.400 
pounds. The seating capacity of the church is 10.000. It 
has recently been decorated in deep colors and gold, after 
the manner of the St. Chapelle at Paris. Suspended over 
the western gallery, and near the grand altar, is an immense 
wooden crucifix. This was brought from France two cen- 
turies ago, and was first set up in the church built on the 
ground now Place d'Arms. Adjoining Notre Dame is the 
venerable Seminary of St. Sulpice, with its old gateway, 
courtyard and clock. The gentlemen of this seminary 
originally held valuable rights atiecting the entire island of 
Montreal ; much of the land yet remains in their hands. 
With the wealth thus brought to their cofters they have lib- 



I07 

erally established and conducted many institutions of 
charity and education scattered throughout the city. We 
are now on Notre Dame street, the chief retail street in 
Montreal. Turning eastward a few feet from Notre Dame 
church, on the left hand side of the street, you arrive at No. 
1 69 1, where is located the Snow Shoe Cafe, managed by W. 
H. H. Murray, of Adirondack fame, who invites you to call 
and inspect his goods. Opposite is R. Sharpley & Sons, 
which will well repay a visit. A little above on the left, is 
1 67 1, J. & E. McEntyre, merchant tailors. They make all 
my clothes, therefore, if they can fit me further comments are 
unnecessary. A little above is Lanthier & Co. Let us go 
on we shall soon arrive at the Court House, a fine Grecian 
building, of simple and massive appearance. A few steps 
further on the right brings us to Nelson's monument, setting 
forth in bas-relief the various victories which the great naval 
hero won without the loss of a single British ship. This 
monument is in Jacques Cartier square, at the foot of which 
is the wharf of the Quebec steamers. 

Keeping on Notre Dame street, directly beside the mon- 
ument, we find opposite to each other two buildings which 
form a sharp contrast. The one on the left is the new City 
Hall, a lofty and ornate specimen of French architecture ; 
facing it is the " old chateau," a structure probably thought 
very fine a century ago, when Benjamin Franklin set up in 
it the first printing press ever used in the city. Now the 
old place is a Normal School, and the discoveries of the 
illustrious American is explained there, and let us hope his 
witty sayings repeated and acted upon. We can now take 
our way to the river side, and a block from Jacques Cartier 
Square shall find Bonsecours Market, a vast substantial 



io8 

Doric structure. Here, if it be market day, we may- 
see a little of the French Canadian peasantry, clad in 
their home-spun, and bargaining about their fowls, or eggs 
or butter with many queer words and phrases now almost 
forgotten in the Normandy whence they were first brought. 
Next to the market is Bonsecours Church, a rough-cast 
building with a high-pitched roof, and with a breadth of a 
few feet adjoining it, occupied by cobblers and cake shops. 
This church is the oldest Roman Catholic one in the city ; 
its entrance is at the farther side ; rarely is it unoccupied 
by some worshippers from the adjacent market, who bring 
in, without ceremony, their baskets and bundles. Sus- 
pended over the altar is a model of a ship in bright tin, in 
which usually burning tapers are placed. Returning, on the 
water-front, we note the ships and steamers from Liverpool, 
■Glasgow, London, Havre, Rotterdam and other ports : and 
on the right successively pass the Custom House, a triangu- 
lar building, with a clock tower ; the office of the Allan 
Line, also having a clock ; and the fine building of the Har- 
bor Commissioners. Next to it is a curious looking pile, 
with external hoist-ways from top to bottom, this is the Cus- 
toms Examining Warehouse. Before we leave this vicinity, 
we shall glance backward at the street from Allan's office to 
the Custom House. 

Taking a short journey, still upon the river- front, we come 
to the great works of stone masonry, which give to Mon- 
treal an enlarged canal to Lachine, so that vessels of much 
greater tonnage than the ones at present used may be em- 
ployed in the grain trade. This enterprise is one of a series 
of canal im])rovements by which Canada strives to retain 
and increase its business as a highway for the shipment of 
western jiroduce to the sea-board. 



I09 

Retracing our steps, we take the wide street running up 
from the city, McGill, and mark the fine warehouses that 
adorn it. Arriving at Notre Dame street, a little above, on 
the left, John Murphy & Co., who invite you to inspect their 
stock, styles and prices. Adjoining is Mr. S. Carsley, who 
occupies the six or seven stores in succession, which you 
are invited to inspect, and I am positive you will be as 
favorably impressed as I was. Retracing our steps back to 
McGill street, we turn to the right, and immediately in front, 
just one block is Victoria Square, which contains a statue 
of the Queen, by Marshall Wood. Corner St. James street 
opposite, on the left is the Albert Buildings. Turning to 
the right we enter St. James street, the first building of note, 
on the right is the Ottawa Buildings, on the left is J. J. Milloy^ 
the Tailor, where tailor-made suits for ladies are a specialty, a 
little further on the right is G. W. Clark, The Souvenir 
Palace, and a little above is Drysdale & Co., where any re- 
ligious book may be had, Seaside Library, stationery, etc. On 
our way to the Post Office from whence we started, we come 
to 219, "Alexanders," the confectioner, the Huyler of 
Canada. At the corner of St. Peter street is the Mechanics' 
Institute. This building contains a good Hbrary, the admis- 
sion fee to which is only nominal ; and a very good reading- 
room, having on its tables the principal dailies of America,, 
the London Times, the Glasgow Herald, the DubHn Warder, 
the Edinburgh Scotsman, and all the weeklies, monthlies,, 
and quarterlies of both England and the United States. 
Strangers can have free access to this reading-room, for the 
period of two weeks, by applying to Mr. Hogan, the pro- 
prietor of the new St. Lawrence Hall. 

Opposite to the Mechanics' Institute is the Merchants'^ 



no 

Bank, built in modern Italian style, with polished granite 
columns at the entrance ; the interior of this bank should 
be seen ; the main office is carried up two stories in height, 
and is beautifully frescoed. Diagonally across the street is 
IVIolson's Bank, also of Italian design, and richly decorated. 
We are now nearly at the hotel again, where we may con- 
clude for the present our inspection of the city. 

Resuming our sight-seeing, we shall now leave behind us 
the business streets, and take our way to the upper part of 
Montreal. Our suggestion is, take St. James street to the 
first crossing on the right as you leave the hotel, St. Peter 
street. After two blocks this street changes its name to 
Bleury street. (When if you find you are foot sore you can 
turn to the left, to the end of the block on Craig street No. 
1722, where is located the celebrated Surgeon Chiropodist, 
Prof. Harris, who will attend to any trouble of the feet, 
that will be sure to make your walk a pleasant one, provided 
you are like me, suttering from corns, bunions or ingrowing 
nails.) At No. 17 Bleury street, we may enter Notman's 
studio, a large handsome building entirely devoted to pho- 
tographic art. Here we may spend half an hour very pleas- 
antly in looking over views of Canadian scenery, and por- 
traits taken singly, or skillfully grouped, representing the 
sports and pastimes of our winter. The chief of these 
pictures is that which shows a carnival held at the Victoria 
Skating Rink, seven years ago, when H. R. H. Prince Ar- 
thur was present. This photographic marv^el, with others 
now surrounding it on the walls of Mr. Notman, attracted 
great attention and admiration at the Centennial Exhibition. 
Mr. Notman was photographer to the Exhibition and re- 
ceived its highest awards. 



Ill 

Continuing on Bleury street, we soon reach on the left 
the Church of the Jesu, with St. Mary's College adjoining 
it, conducted by the Jesuit fathers. This church is modeled 
after one of the same name at Rome, where the remains 
of Loyola are entombed. The style of architecture is the 
round Roman arch. The interior is one of the most beau- 
tiful among American churches. Over the high altar is a 
fresco of the crucifixion. In the southern transept the suf- 
ferings of the first Canadian martyr, burnt by savages, are 
depicted. Leaving the elegant house of prayer, we shall 
continue on Bleury street until we come to St. Catharine 
street. A few steps brings us to the Nazareth Asylum for 
the Blind, attached to which (No. 1091) is a most ornate 
chapel, decorated in such a lovely manner as to lead one to 
suppose that it was done to encourage the suffering inmates 
of the asylum to see. 

The next building on the side of the street (No. 1077,) is 
the Roman Catholic Commercial Academy, a lordly monu- 
ment of wealth and munificence, containing all the modern 
appliances for the practical training of youth, and presided 
over by an able staff of professors. If we keep going east- 
ward on St. Catherine street, we pass on St. Dennis street, 
the immense parish church of St. James, with the tallest 
spire" in the city. Near by the new church which is dedi- 
cated to Notre Dame de Lourdes ; water and relics from 
her shrine at Lourdes in France, are for sale in the base- 
ment. Adjoining the church are its conventual buildings. 

Returning on St. Catharine street, we soon come to Christ 
Church Cathedral (Church of England), unquestionably the 
most beautiful specimen of gothic architecture in Canada. 
It is of cruciform design; its extreme width is 100 feet. 



112 

The spire, which is entirely of stone, rises to a height of 224 
feet. The materials of construction are Montreal lime- 
stone and stone from Caen, in Normandy, which latter, by 
exposure to the weather, has changed from almost pure 
whiteness to a yellow tint. On the grounds of the cathe- 
dral are erected the residences of the bishop and his assist- 
ants, the Synod Hall, and also a fine monument to Bishop 
Fulford, the first MetropoHtan of Canada. The street run- 
ning on the farther side of the cathedral is University street, 
and No. 82, one block distant, is the Natural History 
Museum, containing a good Canadian collection. Univer- 
sity street leads us down to Dorchester street, on the corner 
of which is the St. James Club House. Taking Dorchester 
street eastward, we pass on the left St. Paul's church (Pres- 
byterian). On the same side we soon have a view of the 
vast proportions of the new Roman Catholic Cathedral, in 
course of construction. 

Across the square on which St. Peters is building, we no- 
tice a beautiful church, St. Georges (Church of England), 
and adjoining it is its Sunday school, the largest and best 
conducted in Canada. On Dorchester street, fronting Do- 
minion Square, on Peel street, is the Windsor Hotel. Next 
beyond on Dorchester street is the Victoria Skating Rink, 
where immense carnivals are held in the winter, the grand- 
est in the world ; in the summer the spacious edifice is used 
for concerts, walking matches, public gatherings, meetings, 
etc. Two blocks distant is the Foundling Hospital of the 
Gray Nun — a visit to which is thus described : A long pro- 
cession of the nuns marched slowly into the chapel and 
knelt in prayer. Each nun had a crucifix and a string of 
beads attached, and whatever may have been the case with 



113 

their thoughts, their eyes never wandered, notwithstanding 
strangers were gazing at them. Some were young and 
pretty, others old and plain, but the sacred character of 
their labor of love invested them all with beauty. We said 
the eyes of none wandered. Perhaps we ought to confess 
that the quick, sharp glance of one, apparently younger 
than the others, stared us for a moment ; but -it was only 
curiosity — womanly curiosity — and what woman has not 
the curiosity to look at me. Yet that moment was fruitful 
of thought, and as we saw the sad, dark-eyed beauty rise 
in her place and mechanically follow her more staid sisters, 
our mind went back to the days of chivalry, when gallant 
knights rode with lance at rest, or wielded the heavy battle- 
axe in heroic deeds that they might win recognition from 
the proud ladies who looked down upon them. And as we 
thought, it seemed that the most gallant deeds which men 
of this nineteenth century might do, would be to rescue 
young and pretty nuns — who wanted to be rescued from 
the silence and sadness of the nunnery. 

We are now arrested by an immense structure even 
larger than the institution just passed ; it is the Montreal 
college, which educates ecclesiastics, and also day pupils, 
and is under the care of the Sulpician fathers. The two 
Martello towers in front of the college are reUcs of the 
times when incessant strife raged between the settlers and 
the Indians. Sherbrooke Street is adorned with the private 
residences for which the citizens of Montreal are proud, 
and in your drive around the town, previous to or after re- 
turning from your Park Mountain drive, it will repay one 
to drive through Sherbrooke, Dennis and Dorchester streets. 
The McGill College, University and spacious grounds are 
the next points. 



114 

As we pass along Sherbrooke street, in the distance we 
observe, as we glance up St. Famille street, the enormous 
Hotel Dieu, with a large bright dome, a free hospital for 
all, under Roman Catholic direction. 

Returning to the Post Office, preferably by Beaver Hall 
Hill, we slmll not fail to be struck by the number of hand- 
some churches erected there together. On the right is the 
Unitarian church, on the left, successively a Presbyterian, 
Baptist, and Jewish synagogue. Near by on Craig street, 
is a towered building occupied by the Young Men's Chris- 
tian Association. 

"We are soon at the New St. Lawrence Hall, and before 
mentioning the drives that may be taken outside the city, 
it may be well to call attention to a few places near at hand 
a business man or a student may be interested in visiting : 
The Corn Exchange, foot of St. John street, the Merchants' 
Exchange, St. Sacrament street, the office of the Telegraph 
Co., and the Open Stock Exchange, St. Francis Xavier 
street. Near the beginning of St. James street, on St. 
Gabriel street, is the Geological Museum, open daily from 
lo to 4, containing an admirable collection of North Amer- 
ican minerals, and many interesting fossils. Here may be 
seen, what many geologists regard as the most primitive 
record of life, the Eoxoon Ca?iaddense^ first noticed at 
Perth, Ontario, by a Mr. Wilson. From the fact that the 
oldest fossil-bearing stratum, the Laurentian, is the back- 
bone, geographically, of Canada, and because of the great 
variety of rocks found in the immediate vicinity of Mon- 
treal, this museum is particularly attractive to a lover of 
science. An effort is on foot to deprive the city of this col- 



115 

lection, and, for the sake of centralization, remove it to 
Ottawa. I ofifer this as an apology in case it should be 
removed. 

DRIVES. 

As I have said two or three times, by far the most pleas- 
ant drive is up the brow of Mount Royal, called the Park 
Mountain drive. There are, presumably, two roads : the 
shorter returns by McTavish street, the other by Bleury. 
The park was laid out by Mr. Olmstead, [the designer of 
Central Park, New York, whose achievements there were 
recognized by a statue adorning one of the entrances. The 
river view from Mount Royal is delightful, and must be 
seen to be appreciated. I dare not attempt to describe it. 
A suggestion of how to get a ^hundred pictures of every 
conceivable shape or form of landscape views, containing 
mountain, plain, river, lake, hillside, valley, etc., etc., is to 
close the eye, place the hands on each end of the forehead, 
and every time the carriage moves a hundred feet open the 
eyes and you have an entire new picture. Keep this up 
until you have had an elegant sufficiency of view. The 
next drive is around the mountain, and was the best until 
the completion of the Park Mountain drive ; it is pleasant 
and attractive when it includes a drive to the Catholic and 
Protestant cemeteries, giving a view of the monuments and 
tombs. The drive to Lachine is next, and is of interest. 
The drive to Longue Point, along the St. Lawrence in the 
opposite direction to the last, gives us an entirely different 
kind of scenery. It takes us through the village of Hoch- 
elaga, the termmus of the new railroad, the Quebec, Mon- 
treal, Ottawa and Occidental, which runs along the north 
shore of the St. Lawrence, and develops tracts of country 



ii6 

as yet unbenefitted b)' the iron horse. About a mile from 
the depot is the beautiful convent of the Sisters of the 
Holy Names of Jesus and Mary. Many young ladies from 
the United States have been educated at this convent. 
The next noteworthy building is the Lunatic Asylum. This 
immense house containing nearly 300 maniacs, idiots and 
imbeciles, is controlled by the sisters of Providence ; these 
ladies, with the exception of six guardians for desperate 
characters, and a physician, have sole charge. They find no 
trouble in the care of the numerous inmates, and by their 
kindness and tact restore mental balance, in all the cases 
were cure is possible, in a tithe the time it used to take in 
the old days when the insane were treated with harshness 
and cruelty. On our way to Longue Point, the villages of 
Longueuil, Boucherville and Varennes lie on the opposite 
bank of the river. The drive to the Black river is an at- 
tractive one, and with citizens the most popular of all ; the 
beautiful convent of the Sacred Heart is situated here, and 
its grounds, finely laid out, lead directly to the water's edge. 
The bridge which spans the river at this place^a branch 
of the Ottawa — affords one of the characteristic sights of 
Canada, the piloting of a raft through a tortuous channel. 
The size of an ordinary raft, its great value, from $100.- 
000 to $300,000, the excitement of the captain and his 
French and Indian crew, with the constant perils threaten- 
ing the whole structure, all conjoin to make up a scene to 
be dwelt upon and long remembered. Thus hoping the 
same will be said of your visit to Montreal, I shall advise 
all to visit 

QUEBEC. 

Tourists can take either the Grand Trunk, the North 
Shore, or the Richelieu »S: Ontario Navigation Go's Hne of 



117 

•steamers. Tickets can be procured of the Company's agent 
opposite the New St. Lawrence Hall building, where state- 
rooms, etc., may be secured. I assume that the river is 
the route selected, and that the reader is fairly on his way 
to that ancient city and former capital. Passing a group of 
islands below Montreal and the mouth of the Ottawa river, 
we soon arrive at 

SOREL, 

forty-five miles below — the first landing made by the steam- 
er. It was built upon the site of a fort built in 1755, by M. 
De Tracy and was for many years the summer residence of 
many successive Governors of Canada. Five miles below, 
the broad expanse of the river is called 

LAKE ST. PETER, 

which is about nine miles wide. The St. Francis river 
enters here. Large rafts are observed here slowly floating 
to the great mart at Quebec. 

THREE RIVERS 

is situated at the confluence of the River St. Maurice and 
St. Lawrence, ninety miles below Montreal, and the same 
distance above Quebec. It is one of the oldest settled 
towns in Canada, having been founded in 16 18, It is well 
laid out and contains many good buildings, among which 
are the Court House, the Goal, the Roman CathoHc 
Church, the Ursuline Convent, the Enghsh and Wesleyan 
churches. The population of Three Rivers is about 9,200. 



ii8 

BATISCAN 

is situated on the north shore of the river, one-hundred and 
seventeen miles below Montreal. It is the last place the 
steamers stop before reaching Quebec. It is a place of lit- 
tle importance. 

In passing down the St. Lawrence from Montreal, the 
country upon its banks presents a sameness in its general 
scenery, until we approach the vicinity of Quebec. The 
villages and hamlets are decidedly French in character, gen- 
erally made up of small buildings, the better class of which 
are painted white or whitewashed, with red roofs. Prom- 
inent in the distance appear the tile-covered spires of the 
Cathohc churches, which are all constructed in that unique 
style of architecture so pecuhar to that church. 

During your stay in Quebec stop at the St. Louis Hotel^ 
and if carriages are desired the hotel will furnish the same. 
This was made necessary in order to stop the imposition 
that is practiced by out-side parties. 

CITY OF QUEBEC. 

Quebec, by its historic fame and its unequalled scenery, 
is no ordinary or common-place city, for though, like other 
large communities, it carries on trade, commerce and manu- 
factures ; cultivates art, science and literature ; abounds in 
charities, and professes special regard to the amenities of 
social life, it claims particular attention as being a striking- 
ly unique old place, the stronghold of Canada, and, in fact, 
the Key of the Province. Viewed from any of its ap- 
proaches, it impresses the stranger with the conviction of 
strength and permanency. The reader of American his- 



119 

tory, on entering its gates or wandering over its squares, 
ramparts and battle fields, puts himself at once in commun- 
ion with the illustrious dead. The achievements of daring 
mariners, the labors of self-sacrificing Missionaries of the 
Cross, and the conflicts of military heroes, who bled and 
died in the assault and defence of its walls, are here re-read 
with ten-fold interest. Then the lover of nature in her 
grandest and most rugged, as in her gentler and most smil- 
ing forms, will find in and around it an afiluence of sublime 
and beautiful objects. The man of science, too, may be 
equally gratified, for here the great forces of nature and 
secret alchemy may be studied with advantage. Quebec 
can never be a tame or insipid place, and with moderate 
opportunities for advancement, it must become one of the 
greatest cities of the New World in respect to learning, art, 
commerce and manufactures. 

The city of Quebec was founded by Samuel de Cham- 
plain, in 1608. In 1622 the population was reduced to 
fifty souls. 

In June, 1759, the English army under General Wolfe 
landed upon the Island of Orleans. On the 12th of Sep t- 
tember took place the celebrated battle of the Plains of 
Abraham, which resulted in the death of Wolfe, and the de- 
feat of the French army. A force of 5,000 EngHsh troops, 
under General Murray, were left to garrison the fort. The 
city is very interesting to a stranger; it is the only walled 
city in North America. 

Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, is three 
hundred and forty-five feet in height, and derives its name 
from the quantity of crystal mixed with the granite below 
its surface. The fortress includes the whole space on the 
Cape. 






:<k 



($y<?j^d ^^ 



^^i^'^he^^^H* 



it» 






<^ 



121 

Above the spot where General Montgomery was killed is 
now the inclined place, running to the top of the bank ; it 
is five hundred feet long, and is used by the Government to 
convey stores and other articles of great weight to the for- 
tress. 

THE CITADEL, 

will perhaps prove the point of greatest interest to many, 
from the historical associations connected therewith, and 
from the fact that it is considered an impregnable fortress. 
It covers an enclosed area of forty acres, and is some three 
hundred and forty feet above the river level. The zigzag 
passages through which you enter the fortress, between high 
and massive granite walls, is swept by every turn by formid- 
able batteries of heavy guns. On the forbidding river v/alls 
and at each angle or possible commanding point, guns of 
heavy caHbre sweep every avenue of approach by the river. 
Ditches, breast-works and frowning batteries command the 
approaches by land from the famed " Plains of Abraham." 
The precipitous bluffs, rising almost perpendicularly from 
the river. three hundred and forty feet, present a natural 
barrier which may be swept with murderous fire, and the 
covered ways of approach and retreat, the various kinds 
and calibre of guns, mortars, howitzers and munitions of 
war, will be viewed with eager interest. Among the places 
of note may be mentioned : The plains of Abraham, with 
its humble monument, marking the place where fell the 
illustrious Wolfe ; the Governor's Garden, with its monu- 
ment to Wolfe and Montcalm ; the spot where fell the 
American General, Montgomery ; St. John's Gate, the only 
gate remaining of the five that originally pierced the walls 
of the city; the Roman Catholic Cathedral, with its many 



122 

fine old paintings ; the Episcopal Cathedral ; the Esplanade, 
from which is one of the finest views in the world ; Houses 
of Parliament ; Spencer Wood, the residence of the Lieut. 
Governor ; Laval University, &c., &c. 

The city and environs abound in drives, varying from 
five to thirty miles, in addition to being on the direct line of 
travel to the far-famed Saguenay, Murray Bay, Kamour- 
aska, Gacouna, Rimouski, Gaspe. and other noted watering 
places. 

Quebec can minister abundantly to the tastes of those 
who like to yacht, fish or shoot. Yachting, in fact, has be- 
come of late the leading recreation in Quebec. You can 
on those mellow Saturday afternoons in August and Sep- 
tember, meet the whole sporting and fashionable world of 
Upper Town on the Durham Terrace or Lower Town 
wharves, bent on witnessing a trial of speed or seamanship 
between the Mouette, the Black Haivk, the Wasp, the Shan- 
non, the Bon Homine Richard, and half a score of crack 
yachts with their owners. 

Let us see what the city contains: — First, the west wing, 
built about 1789, by Governor Haldimand, to enlarge the 
old chateau burnt down in January, 1734; this mouldenng 
pile, now used as the Normal School, is all that remains of 
the stately edifice of old, over-hanging and facing the Cul- 
de-Sac, where the lordly Count de Frontenac held his quasi 
regal court in 1691 ; next, the Laval University, founded in 
1854, conferring degrees under its loyal charter ; the course 
of study is similar to that of the celebrated European Uni- 
versity of Louvain ; then tliere is the Quebec Seminary, 
erected by Bishop Laval, at Montmorency, in 1663; the 
Ursuline Convent, founded in 1636 by Madame de la Pel- 



123 

trie; this nunnery, with the Roman Catholic Cathedral, 
which was built in 1646, contains many valuable paintings, 
which left France about 1789; the General Hospital, 
founded two centuries ago by Monseigneur de St. Vallier ; 
in 1759, it was the chief hospital for the wounded and the 
dying of the memorable battle of the 13 September — Ar- 
nold and his Continentals found protection against the 
rigors of a Canadian winter behind its walls in 1775-6 ; the 
Hotel Dieu Nunnery, close to Palace Gate, dating more than 
200 years back. 

As to the views to be obtained from Durham Terrace, 
the Glacis and the Citadel, they are unique in grandeur. 
Each street has its own familiar vista of the surrounding 
country. 

THE SHRINE AND FALLS OF STE. ANNE. 

At the distance of about twenty miles below Quebec is 
the village of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, sometimes called Ste. 
Anne du Nord, and always called La Bonne Ste. Anne^ to 
whom is consecrated the Parish church, erected about three 
years ago by the Pope into a shrine of the first order, in 
which is a fine painting by the famous artist LeBrun, Ste. 
Anne and the Virgin, presented by M. de Tracy, viceroy of 
New France, in 1666, to the church, for benefits received. 
The festival day of this saint is the 26th of July, at which 
time thousands of pilgrims proceed not only by steamer and 
carriage, but on foot, to this holy shrine ; many walk the 
whole distance from Quebec to the church as a penance, or 
in performance of vows. The church is a new building, the 
old one having been found too small for the accommoda- 
tion of the crowds of pilgrims who resorted there. In it are 



124 

placed thousands of crutches left by those who departed 
after being cured of the lameness and other maladies by the 
Bonne Ste. Anne, -whose praises are world wide, for hither 
congregate daily thousands of pilgrims from all parts to be 
cured of their infirmities. Deposited in the sanctuary is a 
holy relic, being a finger bone of the saint herself, on kiss- 
ing which the devotee is immediately relieved of all worldly 
ills and misfortunes. Wonder begins and misbelief vanishes 
on gazing at the piles of crutches ; there one beholds un- 
mistakable evidence of the unlimited medicinal power of 
the mother of the Virgin. Daily are the proofs of this 
power ; the stranger can see with his own eyes, the decrepid, 
the halt, the sore, the lame, the wounded carried into the 
holy sanctuary and depart therefrom, after kissing the holy 
relic, cured and whole. Many are the scenes here witnessed 
of the despairing filled with renewed hope, and the feeble 
and faint glad again with strength and health. Countless 
are the anecdotes of the hopelessly blind and lame return- 
ing to their friends with sight and firm limbs, leaving behind 
them their bandages and crutches. Incredulity vanishes 
before such evidence, and the sceptic leaves the shrine of 
Ste. Anne with convictions deeply settled in his soul. Within 
three miles of the village are the Falls of Ste. Anne, which 
consist of seven cascades, one of which rushes through a 
narrow chasm, which can be leaped by one of strong nerves 
and sinews, but powerful as Ste. Anne is, and devoted as 
she is to miracles, it is doubtful whether even she could save 
the unfortunate who misses his leap. 

The fishing above and below the Falls is very good for botli 
salmon and trout, and the scenery of that wild description 
generally characteristic of the I.aurentian ranges. 



125 

MONTMORENCY FALLS 

is seven miles below Quebec. The road is very pleasant^ 
passing through the French village of Beauport. Those who 
expect to see a second Niagara will be very much disap- 
pointed. The stream descends in silvery threads, over a 
precipice 240 feet in height, and, in connection with the 
surrounding scenery, is extremely picturesque and beautiful,, 
but inspires none of the awe felt at Niagara. 

POINT LEVIS, 

on the other side of the river opposite Quebec, will interest 
the stranger very much, immense and stupendous fortifica- 
tions being in process of erection. Most tourists visiting 
Quebec, pay the Saguenay a visit. The ticket office of 
this line is opposite the St. Louis Hotel, where my genial 
frend, Mr. R. M. Stocking, will cheerfully impart any in- 
formation required, he being the agent for all railroads and 
steamboats in Canada that connect with the same in the 
United States. 

WE CALL THEM TRAMPS. 

During the Centennial year many foreigners were always 
found among the list of passengers from every country. 
The proverbial EngHsh tourist cannot be mistaken by any, 
but this year, 1876, we had many who were too green or 
unsophistical to be in that class. Now this truthful occur- 
rence which I am about to relate is original, and occurred 
upon one of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's 
line of boats. The EngHshman was relating to his newly^ 
found friend his opinion of the United States, etc., in his 
own pecuHar style. Hi don't Hke this blarsted country you 



126 

know ! Why, said his friend, what fault can you find with 
America ? Oh ! Hi've been all over it you know, and 
can't find any sawciety there. Society, said his friend, what 
do you mean by society? Oh, dear me, you have no 
gentlemen or gentlemen's sons hin h' America. Why, what 
do you mean by gentlemen and gentlemen's sons? Oh! 
Hi mean gentlemen who never did any work you know, nor 
their sons either. You make a mistake there, my worthy 
friend, we have millions of them here but we call them 
tramps, and I have often thought it the best definition to 
a tramp I ever heard, for if there are gentlemen and their 
sons here who never did any work they will soon make 
good timber for tramps if they are not already. 

RIVER SAGUENAY. 

To the pleasure-seeker, or to the man of science, there 
can be nothing more refreshing and delightful, anything 
affording more food for reflection or scientific observation, 
than a trip to that most wonderful of rivers, the Saguenay. 
On the way thither, the scenery of the Lower St. Lawrence 
is extraordinarily picturesque ; a broad expanse of water 
interspersed with rugged solitary islets, highly cultivated 
islands, and islands covered with trees to the water's edge, 
hemmed in by lofty and precipitous mountains on the one 
side, and by a continuous street of houses, relieved by 
beautifully situated villages, the spires of whose tin-covered 
churches glitter in the sunshine, aftbrds a prospect so en- 
chanting, that, were nothing else to be seen, the tourist 
would be well repaid ; but when, in addition to all this, the 
tourist suddenly passes from a landsca])e unsurpassed for 
beauty into a region of primitive 'grandeur, where art has 



127 

done nothing, and nature everything; when, at a single 
bound, civihzation is left behind and nature stares him in 
the face, in naked majesty; when he sees Alps on Alps 
arise ; when he floats over unfathomable depths, through a 
mountain gorge, the sublime entirely overwhelms the sense 
of sight and fascinates imagination. 

The change produced upon the thinking part of man, in 
passing from the broad St. Lawrence into the seemingly 
narrow and awfully deep Saguenay, whose waters leave the 
sides of the towering mountains, which almost shut out the 
very light of heaven, is such as no pen can paint nor tongue 
describe. It is a river one should see if only to know what 
dreadful aspects nature can assume in wild moods. Com- 
pared to it, the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest 
ravines cosy and smiling ; it is wild and grand, apparently, 
in spite of itself. On either side rise cHfl"s, varying in per- 
pendicular height from 1,200 to 1,600 feet, and this is the 
character of the River Saguenay from its mouth to its 
source. Ha ! Ha ! bay, which is 60 miles from its mouth, 
affords the first landing and anchorage. The name of this 
bay is said to arise from the circumstance of early navi- 
gators proceeding in sailing vessels up a river of this kind 
for 60 miles, with eternal sameness of feature, stern and 
high rocks on which they could not land, and no bottom for 
their anchors, at last broke out into laughing Ha ! Ha ! 
when they found landing and anchorage. This wonderful 
river seems one huge mountain rent asunder at some remote 
age by some great convulsion of nature. The reader who 
goes to see it (and all ought to do so who can, for it is one 
of the great natural wonders of the continent), can add to 
the poetical filling up of the picture from his own imagina- 
tion. 



This beautiful trip is easy and facile of accomplishment^ 
as new and magnificent boats, rivaling in luxuriousness 
with anv in our inland waters, run regularly to Ha ! Ha ! 
bay, on board of which the pleasure seeker will experience 
all that comfort and accommodation which is necessary to 
the full enjoyment of such a trip. 

To the foregoing descriptions we append an extract from 
the letter of a wTiter in the Buffalo Commercial Advertiser^ 
who has apparently gone over the '*' ground" with much 
satisfaction. Speaking of the great pleasure route, he says : 

" There is probably no route in the known world pre- 
senting more attractions to the tourist than that from 
Buffalo to Montreal and Quebec, via. Lake Ontario and 
the St. Lawrence river ; presenting, first, the visit to the 
great cataract, next, Lake Ontario, the river St. Lawrence, 
and the romantic scenery of the ' Thousand Isles ; ' then 
the sublime rapids, increasing in grandeur to the great cul- 
mination of the ' Lachine rapids,' and finally finishing with 
the beautiful scenery of and around the Falls of Montmo- 
rency, at Quebec, and down the Saguenay — all combine to 
make up more of the wild, romantic and subHme than can 
be found in the same number of miles and almost any 
traveled route in the known world." 

Returning to Montreal for our trip down Lake Champlain 
and Lake George, to Saratoga, Albany, New York and Bos- 
ton, as most of the tourists have tickets for these destinations, 
the routes need only be mentioned. The Delaware cs: Hud- 
son Canal Company Railroad, and Central Vermont have 
ticket offices in Montreal, where information is courteously 
dispensed by obliging, gentlemanly clerks at all times. It 
would be useless here to print the timetables of the differ- 



129 

ent roads, as changes occur too often for such information 
to be reliable As you are supposed to be quartered at the 
new St. Lawrence Hall, which is in the heart of the city, 
and contains the Grand Trunk Railroad and Delaware & 
Hudson Canal Company offices, and directly opposite is the 
Central Vermont office, presided over by A. C. Stonegrave, 
any time-table required is easily obtainable; also, adjoining 
is the office of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation 
Company. 

All railroads issuing summer excursion tickets through, 
over this line, allow passengers, if they desire, to procure at 
Port Kent depot a ticket which entitles them to visit Au 
Sable Chasm, and to return to Port Kent for 75 cents. 

Leaving Montreal in the morning, by taking the first 
train on the Delaware & Hudson Canal Railroad, if you 
wish to make Lake George, Saratoga, or Albany the same 
day ; your tickets may read Lake Champlain Co. steamers, 
but it is all the same ; boat and rail belong to the same 
parties. Should you desire to take Lake Champlain, leave 
Montreal in the afternoon and go to Au Sable Chasm, via 
Port Kent ; remain over night at Lake View House, taking 
the boat at 8 a. m. from there to Fort Ticonderoga, and 
then down Lake George ; or proceed on the train at 10:30. 
By getting off at Port Kent the distance to Lake View 
House is only three miles by stage over a first-class plank 
road ; therefore, it may be said, if you desire to make both 
lakes on the same day, you are compelled to leave Mont- 
real in the afternoon and go to Au Sable Chasm via Port 
Kent, and remain over night at the Lake View Hotel, 
which will be found to be an excellent house ; taking the 
boat in the morning. If tickets read by the Central Ver- 



Lake View House, 

AT AU SABLE CHASM, 

Is on a high plateau, three miles above Port Kent, which is on the 
west side of Lake Champlain, opposite Burlino[ton, and on the Xew 
York and Canada Kailroad, and at which all passenger trains and 
steamboats stop. 

The Hotel commands extended and grand views of the lake and 
Green Mountains on the one side, and of the Adirondack Mountains 
on the other. 

It is lighted by gas ; has hot and cold water baths, &c., on each 
floor ; sewerage arrangements of the best character ; telegraph, 
billiard-room, bowling alleys, and livery stable. 

The Table is, in all respects first-class, including the not very 
usual feature (at such places) of an abundance of vegetables — not 
canned, but fresh from the garden, and fruits in season. 

The Air will te found remarkably bracing, dry and healthy ; 
while good roads, picturesque and varied scenery, with numerous 
walks and drives, combine to make the place a most attractive and 
desirable summer resort. 

The Lake View House is open the year round, but is principally 
a summer resort. 

THE CHASM. 

This beautiful natural wonder is formed by the Au Sable River, 
wliich has cut a channel in the Potsdam sandstone, leaving gorges 
and precipices of varied sbapes towering above its dark waters — 
the top and sides of which are fringed witli cedars, whose sombre 
shadows add to its mysterious grandeur. 

The length of the Chasm pro^)er is nearly two miles. In places 
the river is over fifty feet wide, in otliei-s it is compressed to only ten 
feet, and is of great depth. It daslies through its cx)nfine<.l channel, 
forming a variety of beautiful cascades, rapids and falls. 

Frederica Bremer said " a visit to the Chasm would reward a 
voyage from Europe." European visitors genei'aliy fully endorse 
this sentiment, and no lover of fine scenery should omit a visit to 
the Chasm. 

J. H. BURDSALL, 

Managei for the Au Sable Chasni Co. 



mont Railroad you go to Burlington, where you arrive for 
supper, and as the boat does not leave there until nine 
o'clock in the morning, you have plenty of time to see that 
beautiful city before the leaving of the boat ; at any rate 
you won't have to rise as early as if you were at Plattsburg. 

MY FIRST VISIT TO AU SABLE CHASM. 

As long as anything shall rems,in green in my memory, I 
feel confident it will be the impression of that charming 
view and grand natural spectacle, Au Sable Chasm. 

Arising early in the morning, if not with the lark, a very 
good second in the race, I was invited by the manager of 
the Lake View House to visit the chasm ; accepting the 
same, we proceeded through the gate and down the steps, 
which I did not stop to count ; but the number was suffi- 
cient for a man of my weight, and as large bodies move 
slow, I was behind the rest of our gay, hilarious party be- 
cause I remained to drink in the beauties my eyes were 
feasting upon. Reaching the end of the chasm, where we 
take the boat for the rapids, I did not have confidence to 
proceed the rest of the journey with my companions, as I 
felt I was too large a crowd for the boat ; but returning as 
I came, which very few people do, I was more impressed 
by the grandeur of the scenery, more than going down. 
Returnmg to the hotel some hours after my party, I had 
stories to tell that caused many of them to return and make 
the trip that I had. If there is any view on earth that 
will please you, it is the one obtained from any point at 
the Lake View House, Au Sable Chasm, looking at Lake 
Champlain and the Green Mountains of Vermont on one 
side, or the Chasm and Adirondacks on the other. 



Before the completion of the railroad, boats left Rouse's 
Point on Lake Champlain, and a train left Montreal ta 
connect ; but as the route on Lake Champlain has been 
discontinued from Rouse's Point to Plattsburg, really the 
most picturesque part of the trip down Lake Champlain 
being cut off, most of the tourists take the rail in the 
morning from Montreal, and can pass through Lake Cham- 
plain by rail. The rail passing close along the lake shore, 
one gets a ver)^ nice view, better, as I have often expressed 
it, than if the parties were on the boat, as they cannot see 
both shores on a boat at once, unless the tourist's eyes 
were cut on the bias or cross, thus enabling them to see 
both sides at once. The rail is preferable and saves time. 
As it is immaterial to me how you reach Ticonderoga, it is 
presumed you get there. Lake George Junction, where you 
change cars and connect for Baldwin, which is a ride of 
about fifteen minutes. You are now supposed to have 
arrived on board the company's steamer Horicon^ and are 
saiHng up Lake George. Now, if the reader expects me to 
describe Lake George, I shall simply say. No ! with a large 
N. It is too much ; its praises have been written and sung 
for the past half century by thousands. I shall' with pleas- 
ure and relief to myself ask the loan of your scissors. 
Thanks ; now we can comply with your wishes : We have 
started on our trip through this magical lake. It is difficult 
to describe the quiet delight one feels as he gazes on the 
expanse of the tranquil azure spread before him like a part 
of the sky inlaid on the emerald bosom of the earth. 
Peace is in the very air which lazily slumbers over the water, 
while the monotone of the silvery ripples rolling on the yel- 
low sands, and the musical moan of the breeze in the cone- 
scented i)ines, seem to carry the soul back to other days. 



^33 

Lake George is, indeed, like a work of art of the highest 
order, for it has the quahty of improving, the more one 
studies its attractions, and the ever-harmonious flow of 
lines constantly suggests a composition of consumate genius 
in which every effect has been combined to produce a cer- 
tain ideal. 

Now, dear reader, I have a favor to ask of you ; read this 
little book as far as Saratoga description commences ; then 
lay it aside, and feast the eyes on Lake George for the next 
two hours, and, if you can describe its beauties, do so to 
the best of your ability, and forward to me, 21 Chestnut 
Park, Rochester, N. Y., and it shall have a place in this 
work, and you shall have the credit for the same ; — the task 
was too much for me. 

CAMPING OUT. 

The lake is a famous camping-ground, during July and 
August, and its enjoyments, with bits of sound advice, can- 
not be better given than by the following, from Stoddard's 
charming guide to Lake George : 

" The lovely islands are suddenly astir with busy throngs. 
Rocks are decked with blue and gray, the tree-tops blush 
with bunting ; shores put on a flannelly hue, and shadowy 
point blossom out in duck and dimity. It is safe to say 
that in the course of the season a thousand people taste the 
pleasures and overcome the difficulties that but season the 
glorious dish of camp life at Lake George. Among the 
necessaries are a light axe, long handle frying-pan, tin pail 
for water or coffee, tin plate, pint cup, knife and fork, and 
fishing tackle. A stove-top laid on a fire-place of stones- 
and mud, and supplied with one length of stove-pipe, is a 



134 

positive luxury to the cook. Spruce boughs for a bed, with 
two or three good woolen blankets for covering, will be 
found very comfortable ; a small bag to fill with leaves or 
moss for a pillow pays for itself in one night. Flannel or 
woolen clothing, with roomy boots and a soft felt hat, is 
ordinarily the safest dress. Ladies, wear what you have a 
mind to — you will, anyway — but let it be flannel next to 
you, good strong shoes under foot, and a man's felt hat over- 
head ; take the man along too — he will be useful to take 
the fish off your hook, run errands, etc. 

Boats and provisions may be obtained at almost any of 
the hotels. Bacon, salt pork, bread and butter, Boston 
crackers, tea, coffee, sugar, pepper and salt, with a tin box 
or two for containing the same, are among the things need- 
ed. Milk can be obtained regularly at the farm houses, 
and berries picked almost anywhere. Ice is a luxury which 
may be contracted for and thrown from the passing steam- 
ers daily ; a hole in the ground with a piece of bark over it 
forms a very good ice-box. A drinking cup of leather, to 
carry in the pocket, comes handy at times. Broad-brimmed 
straw hats are a nuisance. A shanty of boughs will answer 
in absence of anything better ; it sounds well when you 
talk about ' roughing it,' but it is bad in practice. A tent 
is best, and may be made very comfortable with a little out- 
lay of money and labor." 

THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The great wilderness of north-eastern New York, the 
limits of which we will not try to define, is generally known 
as the North Woods, or as the Adirondacks according to 
the view taken of its surface. The former title indicates 



135 

merely a wild, densely wooded region ; the latter, a region 
occupied by all the varied scenery pertaining to a most re- 
markable lake and mountain system. The wild region of 
dense forests, majestic mountains, magnificent lakes and 
beautiful rivers, lies in the counties of Herkimer, Hamilton, 
Lewis, St. Lawrence, Clinton, Franklin and Essex, and 
aggregates over 3,500,000 acres, a tract of land of an area 
of nearly 100 square miles. This region is the only primi- 
tive hunting and fishing ground left in New York state, and 
offering, as it does, rare health-restoring qualities, combined 
with excellent deer hunting, and the best brook and lake 
trout fishing accessible, is yearly more than doubling its 
number of visitors — in fact, the limit is only measured by 
hotel capacity. It is not our purpose, nor would it be pos- 
sible in so small a work as this, to go into details as to the 
wilderness, but guide books are easily obtained, and from 
one of them we take the following : 

"TheAdirondack wilderness, as known to the public gen- 
erally, may be divided into three general divisions or sys- 
tems, which collectively entertain .the great bulk of visitors, 
and are representative of the whole, namely, the Saranac 
and St. Regis waters of FrankHn county, whose natural gate- 
way is Plattsburg and Port Kent ; the mountain region of 
Keene, North Elba and Lake Placid, in Essex county, with 
entrance at Westport, and the Blue Mountain and Ra- 
quette waters, in Hamilton county, reached by way of the 
Adirondack railroad from Saratoga. 

Of these sections the first mentioned has become the 
most widely celebrated as a region where fashion and fish- 
ing is admirably blended, and has its patrons who are looked 
for as regularly as the seasons. The second is less known 



136 

in fact, but its grand mountains and lovely valleys have be- 
come familiar on the canvass of our great painters ; while 
the Raquette region has an air of newness and morning 
freshness, as if just awakened from a long and refreshing 
sleep, and is making rapid strides in popular favor. Each 
section while possessing something of the characteristics 
of the others, has its own individual attractions ; and 
while connected by natural highways, over which the 
nomad often goes, they still to a considerable extent, pre- 
serve their individuality, and each is complete and sufficient 
unto itself. 

A peculiarity of the Adirondack region is its freedom from 
rough or vicious characters. Evil finds nothing congenial in 
its bright skies and pure, fresh atmosphere. Conventionali- 
ties that obtain at other resorts are not held here, and it is 
possible for gentlemen to wear blue shirts and soft hats, and 
for ladies to travel without male escort other than the neces- 
sary compliment of guides to furnish motive power, from 
one end of the wilderness to the other. 

Full dress is seldom seen, even at the most fashionable 
resorts, and is exceeded in absurdity only by the conven- 
tional "stage trapper." who occasionally burst upon the 
astonished wilderness in fringed buckskin. Your right to 
enter the best society will not be questioned because of 
dress. Clothing ordinarily worn is sufficient for all occa- 
sions here." 

The Adirondack region is steadily growing in favor as a 
resort for persons afflicted with throat and lung troubles ; 
and while it is not b\' any means a sure cure for all, how- 
ever dee])ly seated tlie disease may have become, yet if per- 
sons so afflicted will go there in time, they will find the dry, 



137 

pure air, impregnated as it is with balsam and pine, to be 
of infinite relief, and many living witnesses are there 
found to prove its benefits. Several articles have been 
written upon this subject which misled the public, and, in 
consequence, many people, past all possible cure, have been 
sent there, with only natural results. We would only say, 
consult your physician, and, if you are not past cure, we 
beUeve this section to be as nearly affording a remedy as 
any spot on the continent. 

Places of entertainment, from the well-appointed hotel on 
the border to the rude log-house and open camp of the 
interior, are found at short intervals throughout the entire 
wilderness, all waiting with open doors to receive the 
stranger. 

Guides and boats may be had at all the hotels. 

Under head of " Gateways" will be found the nearest 
points reached by railroad and stage routes, distances, etc., 
to the most prominent resorts. 

GATEWAYS. 

From Plattsburg, take Chateaugay Railroad, thirty-six 
miles to Lyon Mountain, thence by stage four miles to 
" Ralph's" on upper Chateaugay Lake. 

From Au Sable (20 miles west of Plattsburg on branch 
railroad). Stages leave here every morning (Sundays ex- 
cepted) on arrival of early trains, for French's, 18 miles; 
Franklin Falls, 20 miles; Bloomingdale, 28 miles; Loon 
Lake House, on Loon Lake, 28 miles; Rainbow House, 
on Rainbow Lake, 35 miles ; Martin's on Saranac Lake, 
37 miles ; Paul Smith's, on St. Regis Lake, 38 miles; Pros- 
pect House, on Saranac Lake, 41 miles ; Bartlett's, on 
Saranac Lake, 49 miles. 



139 

From Elizabethtown delightful trips are made into the 
mountain region, through Keene Valley via. Indian Pass, 
and to Au Sable Pond, one of the most beautiful spots in 
the wilderness, also by North Elba, Lake Placid and Wil- 
mington Notch, passing immediately under the shadow of 
Whiteface and Haystock Mountains, and out at Au Sable 
station, or return to EHzabethtown. 

FACILITIES FOR LAKE TRAVEL. 

The Champlam Transportation Company run a regular 
line of steamboats the entire length of the lake, making 
three round trips daily (except Sundays), and stopping at 
all way landings. The .IIoiHco?t of this line, making the 
regular connections with the railroad, is a fine side-wheel 
steamer 203 feet long and 52 feet wide over all, and is 643 
tons burden, and will accommodate comfortably 1,000 peo- 
ple. I can truthfully say that upon no inland lake in the 
world is the passenger service so • promptly and regularly 
done, and passengers so elegantly cared for as upon Lake 
George. 

Caldwell is the railroad terminus, and is the largest town 
on the lake. It is situated at the extreme southern end, or 
head of the lake (the waters flowing north and emptying 
into Lake Champlain, immediately at the ruins of old Fort 
Ticonderoga). Here, at Caldwell, is located the handsome 
dock and depot building of the railroad company, whose 
trains run down the dock immediately to the steamers — one 
of which leaves upon the arrival of each train for all points 
down the lake. The railroad was extended to this point 
last season, thus saving at least one hour of time and better 
facilities for the accommodation of tourists and pleasure 
travel. 



I40 
LAKE GEORGE. 

Every American, or tourist, should see it at least once. 
It is the largest of the Adirondack chain, 346 feet above 
the sea, and 247 above Champlain, 35 miles long and 
from two to four in width, and fed from mountain brooks 
and springs coming up from the bottom, making it transpar- 
ent. It is beautifully dotted with over 200 islands, and 
surrounded by high mountains, some rising 2,000 feet above 
the water, clothed with foUage and dotted with villas and 
picturesque camps ; one feels like leaving the boat and re- 
maining in this bower of enchantment. The steamer touches 
at all points of note and arrives at the Fort Wilham Henry 
Hotel, Caldwell, where you can, if you desire, remain over. 

CONVENIENCES. 

The proprietors spare no pains to make Fort William 
Henry Hotel attractive in all respects. 

The Hotel is elegantly furnished throughout, has a fast 
running elevator, and is lighted by gas and electricity. It 
is supplied with pure water from a Mountain spring. 

The Cuisine is identical in every way with that of " The 
Arlington, Washington." The same Chef and assistants. 
The same Steward. The same Head Waiter with his ex- 
cellent and full Corps of carefully trained and experienced 
waiters. This being the only Hotel on the entire Lake that 
does not rely for its table service on female hel]). 

In the main office is the only (General Ticket Office at 
Lake George, where baggage may be checked, and infor- 
mation obtained in regard to all distances. Stock reports 
are received hourly. 



141 

The Lake steamboats land at the Hotel dock, which is 
the headquarters for all the passenger and pleasure or ex- 
cursion boats on the Lake. A large number of steam and 
sailing yachts, and a flotilla of smaller boats are provided 
for the use of guests. 

The Livery Stables attached keep constantly on hand sad- 
dle horses, buggies, buck-boards, phaetons and other car- 
riages of all descriptions, to be had by applying at the 
office. 

The Lake steamboats, Horicon and Ticonderoga, ar- 
rive every morning at 4:30 except Sunday, bringing passen- 
gers from Montreal, Lake Champlain and Whitehall, direct 
to the wharf of the Fort William Henry Hotel, where 
courteous attendants will always be in readiness to assist 
and serve the guests of this House. 

As I have cheerfully recommended tourists for the last 
ten years to make a short stay at least at this dehghtful re- 
sort, the Fort WiUiam Henry Hotel, and never met one 
afterwards who did not thank me for the suggestion ; I say 
to you remain over. I am confident you will never regret 
it. Connections are, however, arranged for, and you can, 
if you wish, leave immediately for 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

the focus to which the fashionable world of the United 
States, indeed, of Europe, is annually drawn. Here are 
intellectual men, stylish men, the beaux of Society, and 
the man of the world ; ladies of social rank, the managing 
mother, the marriageable daughters, the flattering bee of 
fashion, and the more gentle bird of beauty, are found 
amidst the throng, for Saratoga is cosmopolitan. As a 



142 



HENRY CL^IR, 



LESSEE, 



Grand Union Hotel. 

OPEN FROM JUNE TO OCTOBER. 
Saratooa. Springs. 



143 

gentleman said to me one day, " I can meet more of my 
friends in one hour during the season at Saratoga than I 
could at home in a week." The ladies here have ample 
opportunities to display their peculiar charms and graces. 
The sporting gentleman can also find an opportunity to 
gratify his peculiar tastes ; the philosopher may study hu- 
man nature ; the invalid find perfect health ; in fact every 
one at Saratoga finds that pecuUar pleasure they most 
desire. Of all the elegant hotels which here abound we 
have not space to mention. I will, therefore, speak of those 
I know, the United States, Grand Union, and Adelphi, con- 
fident they can please any one paying them a visit. 

The Grand Union Hotel is the great house of Saratoga, 
having a frontage of i, 800 feet; the massive tower which 
rises in the centre is 200 feet high to the summit, reveafing 
a landscape of 75 miles in circumference, of wondrous 
beauty. It will accommodate 1,600 guests comfortably ; 
it has all modern improvements. To give you an idea of 
its magnitude : its piazzas are over a mile in length ; halls, 
two miles ; carpets, ten acres ; number of rooms, eleven 
hundred. Over five hundred thousand dollars have been 
expended in decorating, re-furnishing and embelHshing its 
grounds. Its Cuisine is perfection. The garden or lawn 
parties given at this hotel are the recherche event of the 
season. The lessee of this estabHshment is Mr. Henry 
Clair, who is also lessee of the MetropoUtan and Park 
Avenue Hotels, New York ; the latter is the only absolute 
fire-proof hotel in America. The court, which is one 
hundred feet square, has electric lights. The garden is a 
superb bower of beauty, summer and winter. The house 
has over six hundred rooms, and can accommodate eight 
hundred guests. The Hbrary connected has five thousand 



o 

o 

> 

w 

PC 




w 

> 

o 
o 

^; 

OC 

oc 

01 



X 

d 
PI 

r 



(/5 
> 

> 



c 

Q 



X 



u 

< 



145 

volumes, accessible to guests ; the location is fifth Avenue, 
Thirty-Second and Thirty -Third streets, New York. The 
leap into public favor of this popular hotel during the past 
year is astounding. 

The Adelphi Hotel. — This new, comfortable and petite 
hotel is located on Broadway, contains one hundred rooms, 
is convenient to the springs, etc., etc. Its piazza is elevated 
one story above the street and commands a splendid view 
up and down Broadway, as well as Phila street opposite. 
The proprietor, Mr. Wm. H. McCaffrey, is too well known 
to the traveling community to need one word from me, and 
the gentlemen connected with the office and other depart- 
ments of the house, are too well qualified by being the 
choice of the proprietor, to need commendation. It is 
" my home " when in Saratoga ; that is all I have to 
say against it. It is the universal opinion of tourists, 
that no watering place on the continent, of like size, can 
compare with the unwearying charms of Saratoga. The 
hotel arrivals some days are upwards of one thousand. One 
might become almost tired of the world and vote every 
other place a bore, but Saratoga scenery, Saratoga atmos- 
phere and Saratoga life would still charm by its ever pleas- 
ing peculiarities. Mount McGregor, the place selected 
above all others for its pure air, etc., etc., as a residence for 
our hero. Gen. U. S. Grant, who arrived at Saratoga on 
June 17th, 1885, (during my stay for health), so I had the 
pleasure of seeing the old veteran while he was being con- 
veyed to the Mount McGregor R. R., which ascends to the 
top of the mountain, where visitors can go almost every 
hour and get a view that will well repay them. I left Sara- 
toga on the morning of the 19th June, and was informed 



146 

Congress •» Spring. 

THE 

STANDARD MINERAL WATER 

CATHARTIC, ALTERATIVE, a Specific for Disorders of the 

STOMACH, LIVER and KIDNEYS, ECZEMA, MALARIA, 

and all IMPURITIES of the BLOOD. 



So enviable a name has this famous Mineral Water that the managers of 
inferior Mineral Springs, desu-ous of imitating the natm-al purity of the 
bottled water of Congress Spring, inject a powerful acid in their bottled 
water to preserve the crude ingredients in solution — being so heavily laden 
with 

LIME AND IRON DEPOSIT. 

With such contrivances, bogus testimonials and Aoctored analysis cards 
they seek to.rival the pure Medicinal Waters of Congress Spring. 

The regular season visitors to Saratoga fully imderstand these crude, 
harsh waters, many of them after painful experiences. In proof of 
tliis we can Produce a GREAT ::?1AIVY RESPONSIBLE 

NAITIES. But the Saratoga visitors without experience, and many who 
use the bottled waters (often labelled as curatives for disorders which they 
positively aggravate), should remember that crude, harsh Mineral Waters 
produce headache, a sense of burning and internal irritiition, and do irre- 
parable injury to the digestive organs and kidneys. 

CONGRESS -WATF.Tt, 

PURE, NATURAL AND RELIABLE. 

NONE GENUINE SOLD ON DRAUGHT. 
For sale by Druggists, Grocers, Wine Merchants and Hotels. 
BOTTLE " C " :»IARK. 



147 

by the conductor of the Mt. McGregor R. R. that General 
Grant rested well the previous night, and slept ten hours. 
It is a fact and worthy of note here, that for the past three. 
years there has not been one day during the months of July 
or August, but they have had a heavy frost on Mount Mc- 
Gregor. I can vouch for the truthfulness of this item be- 
cause I know him. He is the conductor of the train on the 
Mt. McGregor R. R., weighs 280 pounds and his name is. 
Frost. 

Saratoga contains 10,000 inhabitants, and in the summer 
season every private house is turned into a boarding house 
of one or the other class, and therefore boarding houses 
abound — no space to mention all of them here. 

The Windsor Hotel, Saratoga. — This house was built in 
the spring of 1876, and is opened on or about the first of 
June each year; its location corner Broadway and Williams 
street. It has a commanding view of Broadway, the main 
street of the village. It is owned by Judge Hilton, and the 
lessee is Mr. Henry Clair, of New York. It is the first house 
of its kind opened in early June, in order to accommodate the 
Judges of the Court of Appeals — the highest Court in the 
State — which convenes here about that time every year. It is 
the home of the Judges and their families, as well as all the dis- 
tinguished hghts of the legal profession during the season. 
From its observatory may be had the most splendid view of 
the surrounding country. The house is first-class, has ac- 
commodations for three hundred guests, and except in size, 
said Mr. A. R. Wood, is superior to all other hotels at this 
watering place. 

Next in order comes the Springs. First in the fist is the 
old and ever popular Congress Springs. 



148 



K 






J : 


- 


0\ 


V 


'/) 




"^ 'J'' 


'!> 


K J 


m 


Z 


i 


w 


1 


:i: 


f 


kV 




Vx" 


'>^ 




■z. 




CO 


£. 




7^ 





OS 


, 


s 


© 




M-H 











0^ 


cc: 


• 


< 

1/5 


© 




v-^ 




© 


f 


P^■ 


3 


1 


^-^ 


\ 


^ 


i 





\ 






c> 




© 




^ 



(^^ 



149 

CONGRESS SPRINGS 

was discovered nearly a century ago — [792 — by Hon. 
James Taylor, member of Congress from New Hampshire. 
The park connected with the Springs is beautifully laid out 
with walks, groves, flowers, trees, and ponds, in which 
speckled trout abound, fountains, statuary, live deer, etc., 
etc. ; where night and day the beauty and fashion come for 
pleasure and to imbibe the water of Congress and Columbia 
Springs, which are within the enclosure. Those who are 
posted, come here and drink, thus avoiding those waters of 
other springs which are irritating in their nature, and harsh 
and inflammable to the stomach, injuring the kidneys and 
producing results irreparable. 

HATHORN SPRINGS 

was accidentally discovered in 1869, and is named after the 
Hon. H. H. Hathorn, its owner ; it is a powerful cathartic. 
The water is bottled for sale, and is probably the most solid 
water known, as it is said to contain eight hundred and 
eighty-eight grains soUd contents to a gallon. 

EXCELSIOR SPRINGS AND PARK, 

some distance from town, as well as others I shall mention, 
you can visit when you take a drive. Washington Spring 
is on the grounds of one of the hotels. Crystal PaviHon, 
High Rock, Star, Seltzer, Red, A Spring, Geyser, or spout- 
ing spring, Robert Ellis, The Vichy, " The Champion 
Spouting Spring," Hamilton, Putnam, Flat Rock, Magnetic, 
Sulphur, Iron and Diamond, as well as a number of others 



ISO 

which have just been discovered, or may have been before 
this reaches you. If, however^ you are not satisfied with 
the springs herein mentioned, all I ask is for you to visit 
the ones mentioned as I did, and accept the cordial invita- 
tion of each to take a glass, and if you do not feel the next 
day that there are springs enough at Saratoga, your feel- 
ings will be different from the sensation felt by the writer of 
this article, by a large majority. The drives in this vicinity 
are numerous. The road to the cemetery (which I am in- 
formed, by one of the oldest inhabitants, in order to start they 
were obliged to borrow a corpse from an adjoining county, 
and now a select few who wish to die happy come and are 
decently interred,) has been improved, so that the drive 
there is very much enhanced thereby. By far the prettiest 
drive, however, is through Broadway from Highland Hill 
for two miles to Glen Mitchell. The most fashionable 
drive is that to the lake. Immense sums of money have been 
expended to widen and beautify this drive, which is loo 
feet wide and shaded with trees, and is sprinkled to lay the 
dust. Visitors pass up on one side and down the other. 
Saratoga Lake is eight miles long and two and one-half wide. 
On an eminence on the western shore is Moon's Lake 
House, proverbial for its sumptuous game suppers. Parties 
fond of fishing or boating can enjoy this favorite pastime to 
their full extent. Its fitness for acquatic sports has been veri- 
fied by the many events of that nature which have taken 
place on its placid waters since 1S71, when the Ward 
brothers vancjuished two English crews selected from the 
best professional oarsmen of Great Britain. Racing is the 
turf event of the year, and cannot be described here, only 
mentioned. 



Life at Saratoga is two-fold — Home and Hotel. The 
former is enjoyed by its citizens who possess some of the 
most luxurious, refined and elegant houses to be found in 
the United States. Hotel, or fashionable life is ephemeral 
in its nature, and like the beautiful butterfly its duration is 
short. In these few brief months wealth, beauty, fashion 
and other ingredients not so desirable, intermingle, and 
amid the gay whirl and excitement of the ball-room at night 
one is in a constant ecstacy. From his visit to the springs 
in the morning, promenades or drives in the afternoon, the 
music, lawn sociable, and gUttering fireworks at night, one 
wonders what time there is for even nature's balmy, sweet 
restorer — sleep. Anticipating your stay at Saratoga to have 
come to an end, you can depart for Albany any morning 
via Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s R. R., or West Shore 
R. R., who run soHd trains to and from Saratoga to New 
York, and New York to Saratoga, Pullman Buffet cars. 
Some having tickets to New York by rail or boat, and de- 
sire to visit Boston, I advise everyone to take the Fall River 
Line to Boston. If you have tickets to Boston via Albany, 
take the Boston and Albany Railroad, which is first-class. 

NEW YORK. 

To those visiting New York for the first time, a few 
words of advice may not come amiss. I therefore suggest 
arriving, if possible, by daylight. Everyone in the city 
minds their own business, a credit in some ways ; but some 
people make it their business to fleece the stranger. I 
would, therefore, say keep your own counsel. If informa- 
tion be required, ask a poHceman. Upon arrival, take cars 
or stage, if possible, to destination. If you desire any of 




u m as ei 

05 O 

= » »i 
V, 0) to a 

I §11 

lil! 

(L, C tC " . 
°^?^? 

tS'C c r'- 
t*g ^ s •/ 
o e c ■■^- i 
"> c^i = 
■>:?,■< 7 c 



Q3 TO 

C3 O 

IS 



CS 

c5 



E-r. = 






03 

■^5 



^^^ h 

I- T3 

-9 ^ 



o 

OS 



153 

the hotels represented in this work, you will always find one 
or more trusty porters at trains or boats. Avoid, if possi- 
ble, the hacks, unless you make a fair, square bargain 
before entering the vehicle ; your trunk or valise may 
accompany you with carriage. You will always find upon 
all trains or boats, courteous agents of the different baggage 
express companies, who will take your check, giving a" 
receipt for the same, which reHev^s you and saves much 
trouble and annoyance, as their delivery system is prompt 
and their charges a stipulated price; no deviation, except 
for quantity. 

Something should be said here regarding the metropolis 
of the American Continent, but space as well as time pre- 
vents. As everything seen here is in grandeur superior to 
elsewhere, the impression made upon the mind while here 
will be everlasting, I shall not try to befog the mind with as 
meager a mention as I am capable of giving, but simply 
mention the principal hotels. The first one at hand is 
the Grand Union Hotel, 42d street, near the Grand 
Central Depot. Money-getting being the chief aim of life, 
its proper expenditure should not prove of secondary im- 
portance. That travel consumes a much larger portion of 
our finances than it should, is evident from the fact that 
but few possess the secret of retrenching in that direction. 
Two important factors of expense in travel is carriage hire 
and transfer of baggage, and that the traveling public is 
more generally becoming disposed to throw ofi" their former 
burden, is patent from the army of guests who daily register 
at and fill the 600 rooms (reduced to $1.00 and upwards 
per day), at the Grand Union Hotel, opposite the Grand 
Central Depot, New York City. Its European plan, ele- 



MURRAY HILL HOTEL, 

Park Avenue, Fortieth and Forty-first Streets, 

One Block from the GEAND CENTEAL DEPOT. 




155 

gant restaurants, cafe, lunch and wine rooms, unexcelled 
cuisine, moderate prices, courteous treatment, unchallenged 
management, coupled with its guests incurring no expense 
for carriage hire, or baggage transfer, with elevated railway, 
horse cars and stages to all parts of the city passing its 
doors, renders the Grand Union one of the most desirable 
of homes for travelers in the city, and also established its 
success and world-famed popularity. 

A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL. 

The Murray Hill Hotel is situated on Park Avenue in 
New York City, but one block from the Grand Central 
Depot. A more convenient hotel site for the accommoda- 
tion of the newly arrived traveler who would at the earliest 
moment find a home could not have been selected. The 
house stands upon the highest grade in New York, and, of 
course occupies the healthiest of locations. It is of great 
size, extending two hundred feet on the Avenue, more than 
two hundred feet on Fortieth street on the one side, and on 
Forty-first street on the other. It is of granite, brown 
stone and brick, fire-proof' When the traveler finds a 
hotel in everyway meeting his demands for comfort, he 
may honestly praise it while he disparages no other. For 
New York contains many costly structures, whose proprie- 
tors severally befieve that their guests have reason to be 
satisfied. Hotels are not advertised as second-class by 
those that manage them. The man who is used to com- 
fort at home is perhaps as good a judge as any one con- 
cerning what constitutes a satisfactory hotel. But, if you 
come to New York in the summer, I recommend you to 
this house, for in all this city there can be no healthier 



156 

KEEKER'S- 



GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL 

667 to 677 BROADWAY. 



IS- 

CO ^ 



Eh 






"- 



.Msniiiiitiiniii 

~ liniiiHiiitiil 




CO 0) 

(ft a 



cue r'z 

„ 5, > ce r i 

^ - S ?< =" 

^ a: C >^ ^ ?? 



2 = p O ►a 

•Z ^ Z H S 

=: c z » 2! 

; 1 1 ■ § 

2 = ^173 

- 5? z a Qj 

! >: ^ z § 

^ 2 e: 5c ■^ 

- H • c o 

? I - > ^ 

5 £ i > 5 

E ?: c X ■■" 

- ;^ -^ ? o 

-: i; - = •») 

« ^ ^ ■'' I 

H y. r r" -3 



ATTRACTIONS of the GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL. 

This Hotel is universally acknowledged the coolest in New York. The 
wide, straight halls running from Broadway to fiercer street, insure perfect 
circulation of air. The five large and elegant parlors. The handsomely 
decorated and cheerful Dining and Supper Rooms. It is provided with two 
of Otis & C'o."s celei)rated Elevators. Six outside Fire Escapes have been 
recently added, which, with five wide stairways, from roof to ground t1o<»r, 
makes the '"GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL" 

THE SAFEST HOTEL IN AMERICA. 



;a<-li Moor in llie building i^ iiij^litly patrolled by a 
\\al4-liniaii \% itii a lell-lale clock. 



157 

place in the warm season. There is a satisfaction felt at 
once upon entrance to this beautiful house. The vestibule 
is apparently just large enough, the handsome, short flight 
of marble steps that lead to the office seems to be just long 
enough, the great hall seems just high enough to satisfy- 
fully the idea that one has of proper architectural propor- 
tion. The floor is of marble, but not the hideous black 
and white inset diagonal. The Siena is set against the 
slate and is a carpet pattern. One rather expects it to be 
soft and yielding to the foot, it looks so hke a Wilton. 
The office is roomy ; not three or four only, but forty peo- 
ple may range themselves along its handsome counter ready 
to sign, in regular order, the register. The book stand is 
no contracted affair, but space enough is given to allow 
display of, and easy access to, all periodicals and news- 
papers. Everything is on a grand scale, but altogether 
convenient. The great fire-place, which, with its huge 
burning logs, in winter invites the guest to share its comfort, 
is an attraction that merits and receives enthusiastic com- 
ment. The electric clock, lighted at night, the chandeliers 
which at the proper time, because of a light touch of a nob 
somewhere, instantly illumine halls and parlors, have their 
supply of electricity from the great machines in the base- 
ment, and the ice that is used for any purpose through all 
the house is made in huge condensers there. All the 
departments seem to be at all times in the best working 
order. All the employes seem ever wiUing to do their best 
to please the guest. There is a painstaking to furnish in- 
formation when it is asked ; if one clerk does not know he 
directs you to one who does. In the matter of meals, they 
are ready at all hours. At the time of registry, the choice 



•58 

is made between the American or the European plan, but 
the restaurants above and below stairs are always available. 
It would be easy for me to compliment the management 
and the efficient office staff, but that goes for the saying. 
As space is Hmited, I need only advise you to give the 
Murray Hill Hotel your patronage once ; they will see that 
you make it your home hereafter. 

The next on the list is the Grand Central Hotel, Broad- 
way, one of the largest in the city. It has lately been re- 
fitted, re-decorated and re-furnished, and under its present 
proprietors, Messrs. Keefer & Co., is receiving the patron- 
age its merits deserve. It is run on the American and 
European plans, so that anyone can be pleased. Its graded 
prices, its location and appointments, together with the 
friends one meets here (as it is patronized by more South- 
erners than any hotel in New York), makes it a pleasant 
place for tourist or traveler. I make it my home when in 
the city, and feel confident you will be pleased and recom- 
mend your friends there after a visit, the same as I do you. 
There was some talk of changing the name of this " land- 
mark," on account of the thorough change in the hotel and 
management, although I confess it would be applicable to 
the situation, as everything else has been changed, it would 
be better for its patrons to advertise the changes than the 
new name. Therefore, no matter what they call the 
Grand Central, it will please you as a hotel, and its prices 
are not extravagant. I take pleasure in mentioning here 
" The old Democratic Standard," the Metropolitan Hotel, 
Broadway, New York. Mr. Henry Clair, the lessee, has 
more hotels under his supervision than any man in the 
world, and he surprised me more in a ten minutes' inter- 



159 
The Favorite Route for Fashionable Pleasure Travel. 



SE^^SOIT OIF 1885. 

UTIGA& BLACK RIVER R.R., 

Only All-Rail Route to the Thousand Islands. 

20 Miles Shortest; 2 Hours Quickest Route to Clayton 
and Alexandria Bay. 

This route is pre-eminently the route tor Tourist travel, and was con- 
structed with that end in view. It runs via Utica, Mohawk River, Cincinnati 
Creek, Trenton Falls. Highlands of Brown's Tract, The Sunset Slope of the 
Adirondacks. Sugar River, Black River, and Indian River, to the River St. 
Lawrence. It is popularly known as the Elegant Line to the Islands, and it 
is absolutely the only scenic route. 

During the summer season, elegantly equipped past trains are man be- 
tween Utica and the River St. Lawrence. These solid trains are completely 
equipped with Westinghouse Automatic Air Brakes, making quick time and 
very few stops. They are run expressly for the Tourist Travel, and carry 
elegant new Through Coaches and Drawing-room Cars. They are in every 
respect first-class trains. 5 Express Trains leave New Y<rt*k: 
daily, except Snuday. INew Sleeping Cars on niglit trains. 
New Drawing-room Cars on day trains run to Clayton 
witltout cliange. 

The St. Lawrence Steamboat Express leaves Niagara Falls, via N. Y. C. 
& H. R. R. R., 3:30 p. m., Buffalo, 4:30 p. m. This train makes direct con- 
nection with trains from Chicago, Detroit. Toledo, and all points in the west. 
It runs from Niagara Falls via Buffalo and Rochester to Utica, arriving at 
Clayton 6:00 A. m. Sleeping Cars Niagara Falls to Clayton. Immediate con- 
nection made at Clayton 6:30 R. & O. Navigation Co. Steamers, arriving at 
Alexandria Bay 7:30 "a. m., Montreal 6:30 p m., Fame day. Trains run directly 
to the steamboat dock at Clayton, avoiding all transfers and affording pas- 
sengers a full night's rest. 

Immediate connection is made at Clayton with fast passenger steam- 
boats, landing passengers directly in front of hotels at Round Island, 
Thousand Island Park, \l'"estniinster Park, Alexandria 
Bay, and all Tliousand Island Resorts. 

EXCURSION TICKETS AT AI.I. OFFICES. 

If you cannot get them, buy to Utica only. This is the only American 
All-Rail Connecting Line with the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company 
Steamers for Montreal. 

4 EXPRESS TRAINS LEAVE CLAYTON DAILY. 

Wagner Drawing-room Cars Clayton to Albany and New York. Wagner 
Sleeping Cars Clayton to New York, also, Clayton to Niagara Falls, and im- 
mediate connection for Saratoga, Richfield, Boston and New England points, 
Chicago and the West. 

The illustrated book, "Routes and Rates for Summer Tours," 100 pages, 
profusely illustrated, and containing maps, list of hotels, and routes and 
rates for 300 tours, will be mailed to any address upon receipt of Ten cents 
postage. It is the best book given away. Send for a copy before deciding 
upon your summer trip. 

E. A. VAN HORNE, THEO. BUTTERFIELD, 

General Superintendent. General Passenger Agent, Utica, N. Y. 



.i6o 

view than any man ever did. He is a perfect encyclopedia 
of hotel business. Having become the lessee of the follow- 
ing hotels ought to be a guarantee that what the public 
desire they will find at the Metropolitan, Park Avenue, New 
York ; the Grand Union, Saratoga Springs ; and the Wind- 
sor, Saratoga. I would like to say here that I published 
this book and advised the advertisers therein to take the 
space, feeling it would bring back to them four-fold what 
they paid me. It will, therefore, afford me pleasure to 
have you mention to any of the advertisers that it was 
through my solicitation and this work that you favored 
them with your patronage ; it will do you no harm and 
benefit me. 

Those tourists who go to Boston from Albany, over the 
Boston and Albany Railroad, will find it a first-class route. 

BOSTON 

is one of the most interesting of American cities, not only 
on account of its thrilling traditions and historical associa- 
tions, but for public enterprise and social culture, educa- 
tional and literary facilities. Boston is peculiarly Boston, 
and no one can describe its pubfic, private or natural beau- 
ties in the space allotted me here. The principal sights are 
Bunker Hill monument, Faneuil Hall, the Common, PubHc 
Garden, old and new State houses, Public Library, old and 
new South Churches, Natural History buildings, Agricul- 
tural building. Institute of Technology, new Trinity Church, 
Mount Auburn, Harvard University building. Music Hall, 
the great organ. City Hall, hospitals and other sights too 
numerous to mention here. Trimountain, or Three Moun- 
tains as Boston was originally called, is a peninsula of about 



i6i 

700 acres, almost surrounded by the sea. Its climate in the 
hottest part of seasons is deliciously cool, bracing and in- 
vigorating, and it is undoubtedly one of the healthiest cities 
in the world. Its harbor, one of the best on the coast, is 
about twenty miles long by eight wide. Its many islands 
and coast are lined with thousands of delightful summer 
resorts, reached by numerous railroads and steamboats every 
hour of the day, forming a panorama of busy life and pleas- 
ure to be seen nowhere else. Its drives inland are none 
the less interesting and picturesque, whether we visit the 
classic shades of old Harvard, the romantic walks at 
Wellesley, or the hundred delightful suburban villages,, 
whose well kept streets, bright lawns, and elegant gardens 
simply reflect the elegance and taste within the homes of 
those who made Boston what it is. The excellent horse-car 
service of Boston is one of the best institutions. Nowhere 
else in the country is this important convenience to visitors 
so complete as here. The broad, handsome open cars reach 
all points within ten miles of the City Hall, and give visitors 
a most dehghtful opportunity to see the attractions at the 
least possible charge. 

Boston, the capital of Massachusetts, embraces Boston 
proper. East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury, West Rox- 
bury, Brighton, Charleston and Dorchester. Boston proper, 
or old Boston, was very uneven in surface, and originally 
presenting three hills. Bacon, Copp's, and Fort, the former 
of which is about 130 feet above the sea. The Indian 
name of this peninsula was Shawm ut, meaning " Sweet 
Waters." A narrow strip of land called the 'Neck," joined 
the peninsula to the main land ; this neck was formerly 
overflowed by the tide, but has been filled in and widened, 



Babies Thrive on It 




It is a fact that 
more children 
have been saved 
and successfully 
reared by 

RIDGE'S FOOD 

than by ALL THE 
OTHER FOODS 
COMBINED, 



Ridge's Food 

FOR 

Infants and Invalids 

Is a concentrated prepar- 
ation of wheat, and is so 
prepared as to be accept- 
able to the most delicate 
stomach. 

In case a babe cannot 
have the natm-al supply. 
Ridge"s food is the best 
substitute. It is quickly 
prepared, and therefore 
may always be fresh and 
of uniform richness. By 
observing the t-pecial di- 
rections, this food can be 
adapted to all the various 
needs of infantile life. 
It cannot cause Acidity or Wind. 

For young children it is 
invaluable, as from its pm-- 
ity. strength and great 
nourishing properties, be- 
ing peculiarly and thor- 
oughly cooked in its manu- 
facture, it will furnish a 
full meal for a growing 
child. 

It is nourisliin«:, satis- 

fyiiiKj and children 

iiiie it. 



EID&E'S FOOD ENSUSES 
HAPPY CHILDHOOD. 




It lias been and 
still is the claim 
of tlie ^laimfac- 
turers, and. lias 
tlie Indorsement 
of tlie public, tliat 

RIDGE'S FOOD 

is tUe most reli- 
able food in the 
world for Infants 
and C'liildren. It 
combines all tlie 
elements for Per- 
fect Growtliasin 
no other. 



Especially in cases of CHOLERA INFANTUM, Chronic Diarrhoea, and 
all diseases of the Bowels, the use of Ridge's Food is invaluable. Not only 
has it an agreeable tlavor, but the system will retain and assimilate it when 
everything'else fails. 

A "nTTT WC! suffering from Prostraiion of the System and General DebUity 

**iU y ^ 1 iw will find Ridge's Food the desideratum for weak stomachs, 

being easily digested, while for all Summer Complaints, as a dietetic, 

it is invaluable. 

T\TTC^T7'Bn^Tr'C! ^^'i^^ ^^^ •" Ridge's Food every qualification 

^ J, j^JTiJir 1 Iwtw necessary, as it is a steam cooked food, wherein all 

the rtesh-forming pi'operties are retained. Ridge's Food makes delic- 

lotis Blanc-Mange, Custards, Etc. 

KidKe's Food \h sold by 
all firHt-cla8M DriicirKiMts. 

In cans, :i3p» «5c, $l.t£5 
and *1 .75. Two sizes for 
Canadian markets, 3.5c. & §1. 

M< "thei-s and nui-ses. send 
to Manufacturers for ]iam- 
phlets ifre.M of jrreal 
value enlitled 

"Healthful Hints." 

WOOLRICH & CO., Manufacturers, Palmer, Mass. 





i63 

and is now thickly built upon. East Boston occupies the 
West portion of Noodle's or Maverick's Island. Here is 
the deepest water of the harbor, and here the ocean steam- 
ers chiefly lie. The wharf now used by the Cunard steamers 
is i,ooo feet long. South Boston extends about two miles 
along the South side of the harbor, an arm of which sep- 
arates it from Boston proper. 

The first white inhabitant of Boston was the Rev. John 
Blackstone, supposed to have been an Episcopal clergyman, 
and to have arrived in 1623. Here he lived until 1630, when 
John Wmthrop (afterward the first Governor of Massa- 
chusetts) came across the river from Charlestown, where he 
had dwelt with some fellow emigrants for a short time. 
About 1635 Mr. Blackstone sold his claim to the now pop- 
ulous peninsula for ^30, and removed to Rhode Island. 
The first church was built in 1632 ; the first wharf in 1673. 
Four years later a post-master was appointed, and in 1704 
(April 24th) the first newspaper, called the Boston News 
Letter^ was published. The " Boston Massacre " happened 
March 5, 1770, when three persons were killed and five 
wounded by the fire of the soldiery. In 1773 tea was de. 
stroyed in the harbor, and Boston bore a conspicuous part 
in the opening scenes of the Revolution. The city was in- 
corporated in 1822, with a population of 45,000, which had 
increased to 136,881 in 1850, to 177,850 in i860, and 250,- 
526 in 1870. By the recent annexation of the suburbs of 
Brighton, Charlestown, W. Roxbury, etc., the population 
has been increased to 341,919, (in February, 1876). Pop- 
ulation 362,876 in 1880. On the 9th of November, 1872, 
one of the most terrible conflagrations ever known in the 
United States swept away the principal business portion of 



1^4 

TAKE THE FALL RIVER LINE 

BETWEEN 

NEW YORKm BOSTON 

Renowned Steamers ' PILGRIM ' and ' BRISTOL.' 

THE GREAT ROUTE BETWEEN 

New York and Boston, 

MUSIC ON BOTH STEAMERS. 

Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Lowell, Fitch- 
burg, Lawrence, Taunton, Portland, Bangor, Me.. 
St. John, N. B., Halifax, N. S., White Moun- 
tains, Mount Desert, and all the Moun- 
tain, Sea-Shore and Inland Re- 
sorts of New England and 
the Provinces. 

Leave NEW YORK, from Pier 28, Nortli River, foot of Murray 
Street, at 5:30 p. m., daily, Sundays included. 

Leave BOSTON, from Old Colony Depot, cor. South and KneeJand 
Streets, at 6:00 p. m. (Steamboat Express.) Sundays 7:00 p. m. 

Annex Connection to and from Brooklyn and Jersey City. 

Only 49 Miles of Rail Between New York and 
Boston. No Night Changes. 

Trains equipped with the " Westinghouse Air Brake and Miller Platform.' 

Passengers by this route have a fi'll night's rest on palatial Steamers, 
reaching New York or Boston at a seasonable hour in the morning, and in 
time for early connections for points beyond. 

No intermediate landings between New York and Fall River after June 20. 

N. B.— During winter months Steamere leave N. Y'. at 4:30 p. m. 



i65 

Boston. The fire broke out on Saturday evening, and con- 
tinued until noon on the following day, when it was brought 
under control, but again broke forth in consequence of an 
explosion of gas, about midnight, and raged until 7 o'clock 
Monday morning. The district burnt over, extended from 
Summer and Bedford street on the south, to near State street 
on the north, and from Washington street east to the harbor. 
About 800 of the finest buildings in the city were destroyed, 
causing a loss of $80,000,000. 

OBJECTS OF ANTIQUARIAN INTEREST. 

Among " buildings with a history," the most interesting 
in the United States, next to Independence Hall, in Phila- 
delphia, is Faneuil Hall. The famous edifice, the " cradle 
of liberty," is in Dock Square, which also has an historical 
fame because of the meetings of the Revolutionary patriots 
that was held there. The building was erected hi 1742, 
by Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant, and by him pre- 
sented to the town. Its original dimensions were 100 by 
40 feet. Destroyed by fire in 1761, it was rebuilt in 1763, 
and enlarged to its present dimensions in 1805. A full 
length portrait of the founder, together with the pictures of 
Washington, by Stuart, of Webster, by Healey, of Samuel 
Adams, by Copeley, and portraits of John Quincy' Adams, 
Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, and Governor Andrew 
adorn the walls. The basement of the hall is a market. 
The old State House, in Washington street, at the head of 
State street, was erected in 1748, and was for half a cen- 
tury the seat of the " Great and General Court of Massa- 
chusetts," being the building of which such frequent men- 
tion is made in revolutionary annals. It has long been 



i66 

given up to business purposes, the interior having been 
completely remodeled, and the edifice surmounted by a roof 
which has wholly destroyed the quaint effect of the original 
architecture. Christ Church (Episcopal), in Salem street, 
near Copp's Hill, is the oldest church in the city, having 
been erected in 1722. It has a lofty steeple, and in the 
tower is a fine chime of bells. The Old South Church, 
corner of Washington and Milk streets, is an object of 
much interest, it is of brick, and was built in 1729, on the 
site where the first edifice of the society had stood since 
1669. The church was used as a place of meeting by the 
heroes of '76, and during the British occupation of the city, 
was used as a place for cavalry-drill. It barely escaped the 
flames in the great fire. The Old South Society having 
erected a new place of worship on Boylston street, the old 
building was offered for sale, when a patriotic eftbrt among 
the people originated a subscription for the purpose of rais 
ing funds to secure its preservation. King's Chapel (Uni- 
tarian), corner Tremont and School streets, was founded in 
1686, and the present building, a plain granite structurer 
erected in 1750-54. Adjoining the church is the first bury- 
ing ground estabfished in Boston In it are buried Isaac 
Johnson, "the father of Boston," Governor Winthrop, John 
Cotton, and other distinguished men. On the corner of 
Washington and School streets, is the Old Corner Book- 
store, a building dating from 17 1 2. The old North Bury- 
ing-ground, on the brow of Copp's Hill, was the second 
established in the city, and is still sacredly preserved. Here 
lies three fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs. Increase, Cot- 
ton and Samuel Mather. 



167 

THE OLD CEMETERY IN THE COMMON. 

In that corner of the Common bounded by Tremont and 
Boylston streets, and lying directly between the Masonic 
Temple and the Public Library, is an old burying ground, 
shut off from the Common and the streets by an iron fence. 
It was formerly known as the South, and later as the Cen- 
tral burying-ground. It was opened in 1756, but the oldest 
stone is dated 1761. The best known name upon any of 
the ancient stones is that of Monsieur Julien, the most 
noted restaurateur of the city a century past- and the in- 
ventor of the famous soup that still bears his name. This 
cemetery is the least interesting of the old burying places 
of Boston, and is consequently seldom noticed by the 
stranger. 

There are according to the directory nearly two hundred 
hotels in the city. With that fact in view I shall mention 
first the American House and United States. In suggesting 
to intending visitors to Boston the name of the " Old 
United States Hotel" the proprietor feels justified in rec- 
ommending the house for just what it is, no more, no less. 
I am at home when in the United States Hotel, Boston ; 
it pleases me, and I am positive it will please you. The 
hotel was built over half a century ago, as a great family 
hotel, wherein most of the owners and their famiHes resided. 
As a consequence, it was arranged more for safety, comfort, 
and convenience than the more modern and pretentious 
hotels. 

The U. S. Hotel covers an entire square, nearly two 
acres of ground, surrounding large open spaces, by which 
every room in the house is open to the sunlight and plenty 



i68 



American House 

BOSTON. 



* • Gcrjfral • Jjocaiior), • |f ei?Ject • \7(2r)matior). 



UN&XCEPTIONABLE TABLE, 

THE NEAREST 

KIRST CLASS HOTEL 

To Northern and Eastern Depots. 

Particularly Desirable for Families and Tourists. 
Conveniently Located for Either Busi- 
ness or Pleasure. 

Rooms with Meals, $3.00 per Day and Upwards, 

Rooms Only, $1 .OO per Day and Upwards, 

According to Size and Location. 

r'ARLORS AND BATHS ExTKA. 

REFITTED MD GREATH IMPROVED 

• BY RECENT ALTERATIONS. 

HENRY B. RICE&, CO., Prop'rs. 

Hanover, near Washington St. 



169 

of fresh air ; and there are no guests' rooms above the third 
floor, while eight separate and distinct stairways reach from 
the upper floor to the street. 

These items of sunlight, and rooms below the clouds, 
with plenty of direct and convenient accesses to the street, 
wiU recommend themselves to afl thinking people, and will 
need no comment by us. 

Terms. — The present proprietor, Mr. Tilly Haynes, took 
possession of the property in 1880 for a long term of years 
at a nominal rental ; and it has been the aim to make it a 
comfortable and homelike house, regulating the charges ac- 
cording to rooms required, from $2.50 to $3.50 per day, 
thus meeting the wants of the most economical or the most 
sumptuous, our motto being excellence without extrava- 
gance. When you are in Boston and wish to visit one of 
the most popular sea side resorts, I cheerfully refer you to 
the Masconavao House, Manchester (by the sea), Mass. 
This dehghtful spot is owned by Mrs. John Schoefel, for- 
merly Mrs. J. B. Booth, and is under the management of 
my dear friend, Mr. George Holliday, and if you have only 
time to call, take the train at the Eastern Depot almost any 
hour, and if you only stay as long as he will make it pleas- 
ant for you, it will be plenty long enough. Let me call 
your attention to the American House, Boston. 

The American House, Boston, is the nearest first-class 
hotel to the Northern and Eastern Railroad Depots, and 
can, without hesitation, be recommended as one of the best 
in the city. It has broad, well lighted corridors, spacious 
public rooms and all modern improvements for the con- 
venience of guests, and has long been noted for the cleanli- 



ness and comfort of its rooms, the invariable excellence of 
its table, and that air of home-like comfort which is so re- 
freshing to the tired traveler. It has a large number of 
suites particularly desirable for families and large parties, 
and contains no dark rooms in which to store away an un- 
suspecting midnight guest. It is perfectly ventilated, has 
six stairways from top to bottom, and recently renovated 
and improved furnishes superior accommodations at more 
moderate rates than most first-class hotels. It is regularly 
kept on the American plan, charging $3.00 and $3.50 per 
day, according to size and location , of rooms, and is de- 
servedly popular with the best class of pleasure and com- 
mercial travelers, but rooms are let wath or without meals, 
at the option of guests. 

One of the best traveling companions on a pleasure trip 
is a reliable Railway Guide, and we advise the tourist to 
get the best, as a cheap guide is Hke a cheap watch, never 
on time. 

As we hold that this little volume is not thrown away, 
but taken home for future reference, a little advice of how 
to start upon a trip, &c., would not come amiss. We say 

I St, Select your route. 2d, Buy your tickets and secure 
your parlor car seats. 3d, Show your tickets to the baggage 
master and have your baggage checked. 4th, Go to the 
news stand and ask for The " Phat Boy's" Delineations of 
the St, Lawrence River, or the Pathfinder's Railway Guide, 
as it is the oldest railway guide published, and the July 
number will contain the best railroad map ever published. 
It is the only recognized mouth piece of the Passenger 
Agents Association ; one can be assured of its reliability. 
The Phat Boy requests his friends to send to them next 



171 

spring for a copy of their summer tours to select your vaca- 
tion trip. Address, Pathfinder, Boston, Mass. 5th, Don't 
bother the conductor by asking questions, as he has all he 
can do to attend to his train, and the Pathfinder's official 
tables and valuable maps tells the whole story. 

I have endeavored to describe faithfully and correctly the 
route over which you have passed, dear reader. There 
are, doubtless, some whose knowledge of particular points 
is greater than my own ; to those I say most cheerfully, note 
them down, and forward to me, 21 Chestnut Park, Roches- 
ter, N. Y., and, I assure you, they shall have a position in 
the next edition of this work, as my object and aim is to 
make this a perfect guide for any person desirous of making 
this the finest trip on the continent. 

After returning home and resuming the cares and posi- 
tion which you left behind for this trip, may you be filled 
with animation, life and health acquired by your excursion 
trip down the St. Lawrence, etc., and the pleasant mem- 
ories of scenes witnessed, wonders visited, as well as the 
beauties of nature revealed, you will have double the vigor 
to prosecute the duties devolving upon you, with only spare 
time on hand to speak to your acquaintances and friends 
recommending them to make the same trip, not forgetting 
to mention The "Phat Boy's" Historical Delineations as a 
guide for hotel, and ail points of interest connected with 
the trip. I will now lift my hat to the tourist and others 
who have made the trip, and bid them a temporary fare- 
well. Hoping to see, next vacation, yourself and friends, I 
only say 

ADIEU. 



^ 



172 



V/m. S. Kimball & Co., 



ROCHESTER, ]M. Y. 



ABSOLUTELY PURE CIGARETTES, 

FRAGRANT VANITY FAIR 

AND CLOTH OF GOLD. 




YMITY YMR MD OLD GOLD 

THE POPULAR SMOKING TOBACCOS. 

PKERLEtSS FIISTK CUT, 

SOLD BY ALL DEALERS. 



)< 



For Comfort, Safety and Convenience, Choose in 
Traveling, East or West, 

THE CENTRAL VERMONT 

RAILROAD, 

■WHICH FORMS ITS CONNECTION WITH THE 

GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY, 
The Old and Favorite New England Route 

TO AMD FEOM ALL POINTS WEST. 



The Rolling Stock and Equipment of the CENTRAL VERMONT R. R. is 
second to no road in the country. It is the only line running 

PUI.I.MAN SI^EEPING CARS 

Betwaen Chicago and Boston without change, and solid trains of elegant 
Coaches and Baggage Cars, without change between Montreal and Boston. 

Steel Rails, iron Bridges, with Westinghouse Air Brake, Miller Platform, 
Coupler and Buffer on every train, assures safety while passing swiftly through 
Mountain, Lake and River Scenery of the most beautiful and varied description. 

The train service of this road is so arranged that sure connections are made 
with the Grand Trunk Railway, and with railroads in New England to and from 
all the principal cities, towns and villages in 

Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut and Vermont. 

Wagner Cars, Montreal to New York witFiout change. 
Pullman Palace Cars run to Boston via this Line. 

Also flrst-class Restaurants with reasonable charges, and ample time given 
for meals. 

|J^"Baggage checked through Canada in Bond, avoiding all trouble of 
Customs. 

During the summer, EXCURSION TICKETS are sold over this line at greatly 
reduced rates. Ask for rates via this line before buying, and note that your 
tickets read via CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD, for sale at all Stations and 
responsible Ticket Offices, East and "West. 

COMPANY'S OFFICES— 260 Washington Street, Boston; 317 Broadway, New 
York; 136 St. James Street, Montreal. 

A. C. STONEGRAVE, Agent, 136 St. James Street, Montreal. 

J. W. HOBART, General Manager. 

S. W. CUMMINGS, General Passenger Agent. 

General Office,— St. Albans, Vt. 



\m 



^ 




V 








>&. 



^ 



W^i 



w.m-^-^K 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



I' 



I 




017 397 388 30 







e&. 




